Sticky Clutch Pedal
#1
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From: Wakefield, West Yorkshire
Sticky Clutch Pedal
Hi all,
I know this has been covered many times before but I have been told so many different things.
As title suggests my cluch pedal is sticky so when i change dear i have to pull it up with the tip of my shoe.
I have been told it is a spring under the intercooler and i have also been told to do something with the pedal (i cannot remember what it was)
I have the intercooler off at the moment and i have located the spring, It does seem very limp but the size of it I cannot see how this would have an effect on the pedal.
If it is the spring does anyone have the part number or know where to get them from?
Thanks all
I know this has been covered many times before but I have been told so many different things.
As title suggests my cluch pedal is sticky so when i change dear i have to pull it up with the tip of my shoe.
I have been told it is a spring under the intercooler and i have also been told to do something with the pedal (i cannot remember what it was)
I have the intercooler off at the moment and i have located the spring, It does seem very limp but the size of it I cannot see how this would have an effect on the pedal.
If it is the spring does anyone have the part number or know where to get them from?
Thanks all
#2
had the same problem mate, Try bleeding your clutch you probably just have air in the line, I also changed my clutch master cylinder, got one for 20 quid and it took me about 45mins to do, ( i had never done one before ). You can adjust the pedal so that it pulls the leaver down so you wouldnt get the pull back. but i would recommend checking the above.
Dan
Dan
#3
I had this problem when i forgot to put the spring back on after a re-build, it is a relatively small spring but does stop the pedal returning if not there or knackered. That is definitely the first thing i would change
#7
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From: Wakefield, West Yorkshire
Are they the same? Subaru did not have a clue at all
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#8
I find it funny, Subaru dealers never really know there own parts.
I had this problem when i had my clutch and flywheel done, but i hate to say it, it just started returning fine, and now its all good. So not much help there, sorry.
I had this problem when i had my clutch and flywheel done, but i hate to say it, it just started returning fine, and now its all good. So not much help there, sorry.
#9
I ordered mine from the chassis number but maybe where I ordered it from got it wrong
Have you fitted it yet?
#13
Sorry Tony, it doesn't.
If you look very carefully the spring under the intercooler pulls in the wrong direction ie. with the slave cylinder, not against it. Not exactly sure what it is for but it certainly doesnt return the clutch, maybe anti rattle or maintenance of adjustment by always keeping the clutch fork/release bearing against the clutch.
Had this problem on both my MY97's and was lucky enough to resolve the problem by bleeding the hydraulics. Others have had to replace master and/or slave cylinders to resolve as newman90 did, or adjust the pedal overcentre position as newman90 suggests.
If you look very carefully the spring under the intercooler pulls in the wrong direction ie. with the slave cylinder, not against it. Not exactly sure what it is for but it certainly doesnt return the clutch, maybe anti rattle or maintenance of adjustment by always keeping the clutch fork/release bearing against the clutch.
Had this problem on both my MY97's and was lucky enough to resolve the problem by bleeding the hydraulics. Others have had to replace master and/or slave cylinders to resolve as newman90 did, or adjust the pedal overcentre position as newman90 suggests.
#15
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From: The hell where youth and laughter go
Most parts supplier's computer systems work on chassis codes to cross ref the correct parts.
No chassis number = risk of incorrect part.
#16
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From: Wakefield, West Yorkshire
no problem I have ordered the correct part now anyway.
This thread is what I mean, I have been told so many different things regarding sticking clutch pedal.
Whilst it is not a big problem it is really annoying having to lift the clutch pedal the last inch of travel.
I have ordered this spring as a starting point. What would people suggest next? Bleed the system (or should I say get someone else to bleed it lol)
This thread is what I mean, I have been told so many different things regarding sticking clutch pedal.
Whilst it is not a big problem it is really annoying having to lift the clutch pedal the last inch of travel.
I have ordered this spring as a starting point. What would people suggest next? Bleed the system (or should I say get someone else to bleed it lol)
#17
Hi I had the same problem always when the engine got warm, pedal would just drop to the floor and I'd have about an inch of travel! Each time I had to pull the pedal up with my toe!
I swooped the hydraulic line which went from the master to the slave with a braided unit from a motorbike (40cm give or take) worked a treat and feels great!
Plums
I swooped the hydraulic line which went from the master to the slave with a braided unit from a motorbike (40cm give or take) worked a treat and feels great!
Plums
#18
Chassis number
But since fitting it wrong one or not it solved my sticky pedal problem
#19
Sounds to me like you need to renew your clutch fluid... its only brake fluid and stops working as good when its old (it attracts water into the mixture).
Change the fluid and I bet it works fine
I also went the braided line from the Master Cylinder to Slave Cylinder
Change the fluid and I bet it works fine
I also went the braided line from the Master Cylinder to Slave Cylinder
#20
Sorry Tony, it doesn't.
If you look very carefully the spring under the intercooler pulls in the wrong direction ie. with the slave cylinder, not against it. Not exactly sure what it is for but it certainly doesnt return the clutch, maybe anti rattle or maintenance of adjustment by always keeping the clutch fork/release bearing against the clutch.
If you look very carefully the spring under the intercooler pulls in the wrong direction ie. with the slave cylinder, not against it. Not exactly sure what it is for but it certainly doesnt return the clutch, maybe anti rattle or maintenance of adjustment by always keeping the clutch fork/release bearing against the clutch.
If the spring is missing or very weak, the fork can work itself backwards causing some freeplay/slack in the system & it also pushes the piston back into the slave cylinder... If this happens, the initial part of the pedal travel is used getting rid of this slack and the end result is that the pedal does not get pushed all the way back and gets stuck when released.
Unfortunately the op has a JDM Wrx and the UK parts system will not accept a Japanese vin no:
Most dealers are really un helpfull when you tell them that you have an import and will either tell you that they can't help you or will insist on you giving them a part number... Knowing someone with access to the JDM parts system can be a godsend sometimes
Dazza,
If the new spring does not work, then I would try adjusting the operating rod connected to the pedal.. Undo the locknut and wind the rod out of the pedal towards the bulkhead to get rid of any slack
#21
Hi. Does anyone know if its the same spring on a 97 V3 STI? As mine is missing and i was hoping it would stop my clutch sticking down when driving hard.
#22
#24
That's why Subaru Fitted it then did they??? Cos it has no use what so ever!!
It is there for the reason that I described eairlier.
It's very unusual for a clutch slave cyl to become faulty... I take it that the "many" slave cylinders that you have changed were either leaking or seized then?? Or were the problems inadvertantely cured by the actions of breaking open the system, fitting a new part and then filling with fresh brake fluid and bleeding the system?
It is there for the reason that I described eairlier.
It's very unusual for a clutch slave cyl to become faulty... I take it that the "many" slave cylinders that you have changed were either leaking or seized then?? Or were the problems inadvertantely cured by the actions of breaking open the system, fitting a new part and then filling with fresh brake fluid and bleeding the system?
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