Will not Boost
#1
Will not Boost
Hi,
After 4 years of happy motoring the scooby has developed its first fault of any significance, she wont boost just kinda coughs and splutters. Wants to go then wont then will then wont. Horible to drive. Any sugestions as to how to fix it? I have been told waste gate but dont know where it is. Or is it intercooler hoses? Am I in the right area. Please help.
After 4 years of happy motoring the scooby has developed its first fault of any significance, she wont boost just kinda coughs and splutters. Wants to go then wont then will then wont. Horible to drive. Any sugestions as to how to fix it? I have been told waste gate but dont know where it is. Or is it intercooler hoses? Am I in the right area. Please help.
#3
yeah could be a leak from a pipe, could be anything from that to the turbo gone, best advice i can give is get her to the local subaru garage mate,
can you do a fault code check see if it flashes up anything, could be maf,
can you do a fault code check see if it flashes up anything, could be maf,
#6
Manually Reading ECU Codes (Classic Impreza’s only)
On Classic shape Impreza’s only (not Newage) faults can be displayed as pulses of the Check Engine Light. If the Check Engine Light goes out there is no fault.
In order to perform diagnostic (and ECU resets) you will need to connect some wires together under your steering column. Note, the following procedure only works for Classic shape Impreza’s, not for Newage.
Make sure your ignition is OFF
Connect the Black ‘Read Memory’ connectors together as illustrated below at end of page.
Figure 1 - Black and Green Connectors on Classic Impreza
When the Black connectors are connected you are in diagnostics mode. Turn your ignition ON and ‘read’ the ECU code(s) being reported according to the following instructions. Note, you may here relays clicking and your fan starting and stopping - this is normal when in diagnostics mode.
In Diagnostic Mode – No Fault is indicated by the Check Engine Light continuously & evenly flashing on/off (this is also used to indicate the successful completion of an ECU Reset). When finished Dianosing disconnect the Black connectors
Figure 2 - Check Engine Light Pulse Width
The long pulses (1.3 Seconds) indicate Tens and the short pulses (0.2 Seconds) indicate ones. Pulses are separated by Short Pauses (0.2 Seconds), multiple codes are separated by a Long Pause (1.8 Seconds).
The simplest way for an inexperienced mechanic to retrieve codes is to write the codes down in a sort of Morse Code (dots and dashes), and start a new line when you get a 1.8 Second pause (for NEW code), and then add the actual numbers up after code retrieval is completed.
(See Example Below)
--- CODE EXAMPLE, SINGLE CODE ---
1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
1.3 second pulse (10….for a total of 20)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 21)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 22)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 23)
(Code 23 — MAF Sensor)
--- CODE EXAMPLE, MULTIPLE CODE ---
1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
1.3 second pulse (10….for a total of 20)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 21)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 22)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 23)
1.8 second pause (this means NEW code)
1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 11)
0.2 second pause
.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 12)
(Codes 23 and 12, MAF Sensor and Starter Circuit)
On Classic shape Impreza’s only (not Newage) faults can be displayed as pulses of the Check Engine Light. If the Check Engine Light goes out there is no fault.
In order to perform diagnostic (and ECU resets) you will need to connect some wires together under your steering column. Note, the following procedure only works for Classic shape Impreza’s, not for Newage.
Make sure your ignition is OFF
Connect the Black ‘Read Memory’ connectors together as illustrated below at end of page.
Figure 1 - Black and Green Connectors on Classic Impreza
When the Black connectors are connected you are in diagnostics mode. Turn your ignition ON and ‘read’ the ECU code(s) being reported according to the following instructions. Note, you may here relays clicking and your fan starting and stopping - this is normal when in diagnostics mode.
In Diagnostic Mode – No Fault is indicated by the Check Engine Light continuously & evenly flashing on/off (this is also used to indicate the successful completion of an ECU Reset). When finished Dianosing disconnect the Black connectors
Figure 2 - Check Engine Light Pulse Width
The long pulses (1.3 Seconds) indicate Tens and the short pulses (0.2 Seconds) indicate ones. Pulses are separated by Short Pauses (0.2 Seconds), multiple codes are separated by a Long Pause (1.8 Seconds).
The simplest way for an inexperienced mechanic to retrieve codes is to write the codes down in a sort of Morse Code (dots and dashes), and start a new line when you get a 1.8 Second pause (for NEW code), and then add the actual numbers up after code retrieval is completed.
(See Example Below)
--- CODE EXAMPLE, SINGLE CODE ---
1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
1.3 second pulse (10….for a total of 20)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 21)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 22)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 23)
(Code 23 — MAF Sensor)
--- CODE EXAMPLE, MULTIPLE CODE ---
1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
1.3 second pulse (10….for a total of 20)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 21)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 22)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 23)
1.8 second pause (this means NEW code)
1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 11)
0.2 second pause
.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 12)
(Codes 23 and 12, MAF Sensor and Starter Circuit)
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