FIA/ MSA Cut off/ Kill switch- anyone fitted one?
#2
http://www.msar-safety.com/detail.asp?p=107
this any good mate as for full ignition kill i think u would need to go to the fuse box under the bonnet at the load side of the fuseable link, but if i am reading the diagram right it only holds a 50 amp load and i am not sure what the full load of the fuseable link is in the fuse box
this any good mate as for full ignition kill i think u would need to go to the fuse box under the bonnet at the load side of the fuseable link, but if i am reading the diagram right it only holds a 50 amp load and i am not sure what the full load of the fuseable link is in the fuse box
#3
You're welcome to look if you're in the Midlands!
Cheers,
Paul
#4
Ive fitted quite a few to full rally car builds where we have the battery sitting behind the left hand seat. As you probably know its purpose is being a kill switch in the live wire from your battery. Just run a wire from the live off your battery to it and the connect the wires that went to the live on the battery to the other terminal on the kill switch.
#5
The battery bit Im fine with, but on the new MSA/ FIA ones you have to connect it to the ignition- I hope this is a link to a pic of the instructions for one:
http://www.holden.co.uk/productimagesWD/020_011.jpg
So I think its the fuse box Im after?
Im only running in production class, but fitting the stuff for modified production in case I fancy that, and its not a bad idea anyway!
http://www.holden.co.uk/productimagesWD/020_011.jpg
So I think its the fuse box Im after?
Im only running in production class, but fitting the stuff for modified production in case I fancy that, and its not a bad idea anyway!
#6
There is a big difference between a cut off switch and a kill switch. Wiring it up as a cut off will just stops it restarting but the actual engine circuit is fed by the alternator so if you switch off when the engine is running it does not kill the engine.
The wiring to make it a kill switch is significantly more complicated.
I re-routed the alternator wiring on mine to enable this to work but their normal suggestions is to wire in to the positive circuit and use a fekoff big resistor to kill voltage spikes.
The wiring to make it a kill switch is significantly more complicated.
I re-routed the alternator wiring on mine to enable this to work but their normal suggestions is to wire in to the positive circuit and use a fekoff big resistor to kill voltage spikes.
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#8
Will see if I can pop the bonnet open at some point today and make not of the precise routing for you. If i do it from the top of my head it will most likely be wrong.
#9
Amy more suggestions gents? From the above, was thinking of tapping in to the fuse box, to interupt the ignition wire, but dash is out at the moment, so life is easier.
Can anyone tell me which is the the ignition wire that attaches to the key barrel? This would seem to do the trick.
Can anyone tell me which is the the ignition wire that attaches to the key barrel? This would seem to do the trick.
#10
#11
Thats better than most instructions! I appreciate your efforts mate- in the end I had it wired in professionally, and they tapped into the battery wires, and main ignition wires going to the coil pack- works just as it should.
Have also fitted my fire ext, and flocked interior. Now all i have to do is beat a highly tuned Evo 6 RS, running on Supersoft R888's, in my 340 bhp Classic running Yoko AD08's, which are semi road tyres.
Some chance, and no chance! I will try though
Have also fitted my fire ext, and flocked interior. Now all i have to do is beat a highly tuned Evo 6 RS, running on Supersoft R888's, in my 340 bhp Classic running Yoko AD08's, which are semi road tyres.
Some chance, and no chance! I will try though
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