How to: cam belt change
#1
How to: cam belt change
Hi there I have a 96 uk 2000 turbo and I'm goin to fit a new water pump this weekend , I have been looking for a link / pics/ description on the method of cam belt change but been unsucsessfull so far . I have a rough idea but would just like to brush up before I start.
So wondering if there is a guide or summit out there u no of cheers
So wondering if there is a guide or summit out there u no of cheers
#2
Hi there I have a 96 uk 2000 turbo and I'm goin to fit a new water pump this weekend , I have been looking for a link / pics/ description on the method of cam belt change but been unsucsessfull so far . I have a rough idea but would just like to brush up before I start.
So wondering if there is a guide or summit out there u no of cheers
So wondering if there is a guide or summit out there u no of cheers
the belt has the crank/cam marks on there. just make sure you line the crank with the line & not the arrow ect.
the 2 top cams fase up, and the bottom 2 away to each other, theres markers on the cam cover ect
where abouts are you from
#6
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Workshop manuals are in the tech archive
Just follow what it says.
If you have big hands, you "may" want to remove the radiator (whilst teh cooling system is drained to do the water pump, you may as well as it will be easier to see teh timing marks, although if you have air conditioning this won't be possible without de-gassing the system.).
Removing big nut on the crank pulley will be an ****, some advice here: https://www.scoobynet.com/showpost.p...4&postcount=29
Advice on stopping the right hand cams from spinning round (use bull dog clips): https://www.scoobynet.com/showpost.p...1&postcount=17
Rotate engine a few turns and recheck timing before test firing the engine. Then recheck again before putting the belt cover back on, as a final check making sure the clearances of the metal shroud on teh crank pulley is adjusted correctly as not to be so tight it rubs the belt on the engine overrun and not too large to allow a pulley to jump a tooth.
Just follow what it says.
If you have big hands, you "may" want to remove the radiator (whilst teh cooling system is drained to do the water pump, you may as well as it will be easier to see teh timing marks, although if you have air conditioning this won't be possible without de-gassing the system.).
Removing big nut on the crank pulley will be an ****, some advice here: https://www.scoobynet.com/showpost.p...4&postcount=29
Advice on stopping the right hand cams from spinning round (use bull dog clips): https://www.scoobynet.com/showpost.p...1&postcount=17
Rotate engine a few turns and recheck timing before test firing the engine. Then recheck again before putting the belt cover back on, as a final check making sure the clearances of the metal shroud on teh crank pulley is adjusted correctly as not to be so tight it rubs the belt on the engine overrun and not too large to allow a pulley to jump a tooth.
Last edited by ALi-B; 09 March 2011 at 12:24 PM.
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#8
have a second person with you when you fit the belt. when the timing marks are lined up, the nearside cams will be on the valve springs. a gnat farting next to them is enough to make them spring out of alignment so its handy to have someone just for that bit to hang on to two spanners to stop the cam wheels rotating on that side.
#10
I take it once all lined up an belt removed everything has to be held dead in place, I just assumed it could b just aligned with the marks in reverse they were moved by accident
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