Cluncking when cornering slowly
#1
Cluncking when cornering slowly
Hi..
I have got a clunking noise when i corner slowly and i feel it through the car so i know there is something thats not right.. just don't really know what it could be.. i have got BC coilovers and i doubt its the CVs because I know what thats like and this is nothing like it so i am out of ideas?!?!
Anyone got any suggestions??
Cheers,
Lee
I have got a clunking noise when i corner slowly and i feel it through the car so i know there is something thats not right.. just don't really know what it could be.. i have got BC coilovers and i doubt its the CVs because I know what thats like and this is nothing like it so i am out of ideas?!?!
Anyone got any suggestions??
Cheers,
Lee
#5
I think its possibly got something to do with the bottom ball joints on the front.. taken it to someone to look at and they have said to replace the ball joints.. whilst i am at it know the brake pads need doing so will do them at the same time since they are not exactly quiet..
#7
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 25,565
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From: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
Wow this could cost you a fortune, if you read the handbook it wouldnt
Its normal if you have a DCCD equipped car and yours is in auto, switch it to manual and put it all the way back to the bottom green on the instrument panel which is fully open, clunking gone, lots of cash saved, you owe me a pint
Tony
Its normal if you have a DCCD equipped car and yours is in auto, switch it to manual and put it all the way back to the bottom green on the instrument panel which is fully open, clunking gone, lots of cash saved, you owe me a pint
Tony
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#9
Wow this could cost you a fortune, if you read the handbook it wouldnt
Its normal if you have a DCCD equipped car and yours is in auto, switch it to manual and put it all the way back to the bottom green on the instrument panel which is fully open, clunking gone, lots of cash saved, you owe me a pint
Tony
Its normal if you have a DCCD equipped car and yours is in auto, switch it to manual and put it all the way back to the bottom green on the instrument panel which is fully open, clunking gone, lots of cash saved, you owe me a pint
Tony
#10
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 25,565
Likes: 2
From: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
This one here?
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...anslation.html
You just have to remember that each setting up gives you more "lock" or resistance for the diff(s)
Tony
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...anslation.html
You just have to remember that each setting up gives you more "lock" or resistance for the diff(s)
Tony
#11
This one here?
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...anslation.html
You just have to remember that each setting up gives you more "lock" or resistance for the diff(s)
Tony
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...anslation.html
You just have to remember that each setting up gives you more "lock" or resistance for the diff(s)
Tony
#12
Here below (hopefully) is the aforementioned IdiotGuide from megaman on the WR1 website. The first time I tried the manual 'fully open' (bottom green) was when parking and it really gets rid of the knocking/grinding when reversing in tight spaces etc. Also first tried a complete suburban journey home from stadium to home in fully open - seemed nicer and more stable for sub 30 MPH slow speed traffic driving. I now use Auto for open road and flick the switch to Manual Fully Open when entering side street areas and into car parks etc. Too be honest I don't like the odd interference feelings of Auto, but I know it's only doing clever stuff for my own good. Might try the one up from bottom green setting (the slightly safer rear wheel bias setting.
Anyway, hope the link works (it's my first attempt).....
http://www.wr1oc.co.uk/forum/viewtop...asc&highlight=
Anyway, hope the link works (it's my first attempt).....
http://www.wr1oc.co.uk/forum/viewtop...asc&highlight=
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