Overheating turbo 2000
#1
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From: Burntwood/Cannock/Lichfield
Overheating turbo 2000
Since my car took a hammering on a recent track day, it keeps overheating. Checked thermostat and it opens fine cuz the bottom rad pipe gets warm. Ive replaced the rad cap as it was a bit poo and it seems to be better and fine on tick over. Took it down the road and gave her a bit of stick for 2 minutes and it started creeping up again. Checked oil and water and there is no signs of head gasket trouble. Would a turbo heat shield help as i took that off cuz it rattled like crazy.
I also notice it has 2 coolant fillers. One on the left by the wheel arch on a metal tank and one in bottom right by the battery and has a little breather pipe on top of the lid? Do i fill them both? Please Help, im blagged
I also notice it has 2 coolant fillers. One on the left by the wheel arch on a metal tank and one in bottom right by the battery and has a little breather pipe on top of the lid? Do i fill them both? Please Help, im blagged
#3
worth checking the fans and seeing if they come on chap
you could have an air lock in the sysyem
leave it on tick over for a little while open the bonnet and see if they kick in
apart from that could be a new thermostat needed
hope this helps
you could have an air lock in the sysyem
leave it on tick over for a little while open the bonnet and see if they kick in
apart from that could be a new thermostat needed
hope this helps
#5
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From: Burntwood/Cannock/Lichfield
Fans kick in fine, was watching them go for it and kick in fine, like i say i think thermostat is opening cuz the heaters are blowing warm and the bottom pipes getting warm. As for split rad pipes, ill go have a mooch at it now but if i remember there hidden in some right **** places. im just confused why it has 2 pots to top up with water for the coolant? Swear my old STI didnt have it
#6
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From: Burntwood/Cannock/Lichfield
Do you mean out of the coolant tub on the right by the passenger side headlight? If so yes but i do keep filling that with water when i refill it and im not sure what that ones for?
Last edited by princey2k5; 15 April 2011 at 08:10 PM.
#7
that not the one you fill up you fill the header tank up driver s side bleed it form there then take it out once its full for a drive then if it chucks the water out from the side of the wing passenger side its probally the heads dude , yes it could be a split int he rad or a slpit in the pipe but most times its the dreaded and if your not sure take it to a turst scooby garage and get them to check
Last edited by happydude303; 15 April 2011 at 08:22 PM.
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#8
also if its any help ..i had an issue with a water pipe to the turbo ..it had a split in it ..even though i couldnt see one because of the silver foil covering on it ...
best thing to do is get it checked out asap anyway chap ...imprezas dont like overheating one bit ...
good luck
best thing to do is get it checked out asap anyway chap ...imprezas dont like overheating one bit ...
good luck
#9
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From: Burntwood/Cannock/Lichfield
that not the one you fill up you fill the header tank up driver s side bleed it form there then take it out once its full for a drive then if it chucks the water out from the side of the wing passenger side its probally the heads dude , yes it could be a split int he rad or a slpit in the pipe but most times its the dreaded and if your not sure take it to a turst scooby garage and get them to check
Feel free to laugh at my expense if so. I dont have a clue with Coolant systems and pretty much Subarus in General but learning slowly
#10
dont worry dude will all start some where top up the header tank let it run with the cap off and keep fill it up and till it stop burping up air bubbles then close the cap take it for a run see what happens if ok then check the header tank again for the next week and top up a bit if needed but liek i say if it over heats and keeeps chuck ing water out oif the wing then you need to take it to a garage who knows there subaru not just any old garage
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From: Burntwood/Cannock/Lichfield
Hope not its had a new rad last month. Just took it out for a while and sat at 4k rpm on stand still for 5 minutes, was not losing water, fans cutting in for a bit then cutting out and i thought all was well. Closed the bonnet and sat on spot for a bit revving about and still all was fine. Took her for a drive for a mile or so and all was fine then came to a country lane so i opened it up and drove a bit harder then all of a sudden temp gauge started creeping up so i was well blagged. Looked underneath and it was losing water but all i could see was it was coming from by the oil filter but could not work out which pipe.
Is there a rad pipe around that region, maybe its split?
Is there a rad pipe around that region, maybe its split?
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From: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire
http://www.saxonfields.freeserve.co.uk/
That link is to a scooby workshop manual there might be some pics/diagrams in there??
That link is to a scooby workshop manual there might be some pics/diagrams in there??
#15
Hmm sounds like a simple airlock to me bud, just have a good check round all your coolant pipes first where they join etc for any dried white/green powder as this would be the signs of leakage to rule out split pipes (the white/green powder is dried anti-freeze) but if theres non of that i'd say its just a case of filling it properly and getting rid of the airlocks. This procedure worked a treat on my 2000 turbo and no temp. issues since so its the one i always swear by...
- Fill the metal tank on the drivers side to the top, start the car and leave it running with the cap off.
- As the car starts to warm up the level will rise, when its just about to over flow, increase the revs slightly and the level will drop. Fill to the top and replace the cap, then release the revs.
- remove the cap on the header tank (on the passenger side) and refill the coolant till its inbetween the min and max lines on the side near the bottom. Leave the cap off and leave it running and you will probably notice lots of tiny air bubbles coming to the surface, this is effectively your coolant system bleeding itself.
- Now its just a case of waiting till the bubbles stop and keep the level topped up but this can sometimes take 10-20 mins to bleed out properly but definately worth it!!
- Fill the metal tank on the drivers side to the top, start the car and leave it running with the cap off.
- As the car starts to warm up the level will rise, when its just about to over flow, increase the revs slightly and the level will drop. Fill to the top and replace the cap, then release the revs.
- remove the cap on the header tank (on the passenger side) and refill the coolant till its inbetween the min and max lines on the side near the bottom. Leave the cap off and leave it running and you will probably notice lots of tiny air bubbles coming to the surface, this is effectively your coolant system bleeding itself.
- Now its just a case of waiting till the bubbles stop and keep the level topped up but this can sometimes take 10-20 mins to bleed out properly but definately worth it!!
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