As title, what are the best mods, I have a forge dump valve, magnecores and a magnex back box, I would like a panel filter, maybe full decat, I don't really want to map as it's my daily drive and want to keep fairly standard.

Any thoughts???

Cheers!!!

 

What model of car?Classic or New age?



Jura

 

Classic, best reliability for a daily drive.

 

I mean best mods for reliability as it's my daily drive.

 

I wouldnt go full decat without a remap, even if you don't approve

 

Would you decat just one pipe?

 

Firstly go back to a standard recirculating dump valve.

Then, before touching the engine:
Bigger/better brakes.
Thicker rear arb.
Solid droplinks all round.
ALK, maybe bump-steer kit.
Full geometry setup.

You'll find it can be driven faster already!

 

Personally, i would alter stuff that didnt concern engine performance if i was choosing not to remap.

As alcazar states, there are other ways to get it zinging round roads quicker other than those you've spoke of.

If you were to fit panel filter, and a few parts of the exhaust, particuarly a decat, you could change the running of the engine without having the ECU to account for it, hence the reason i say i wouldn't fit much without a remap

 

Running red stuff pads but haven't thought about doing the handling, running 4 parts because it's a my99 so happy with the brakes, food for thought...

I read a lot of discussion about the dump valve being a vta, seems to be such a divide unless it's been mapped, what are the problems of a vta dump valve?

Cheers.

 

Thanks for the info!!!

 

Chavy and Sh!te, next question

 

Wouldn't worry a great deal about running a VTA dump valve without a remap. Lets it run rich for a brief moment when the engine's expecting a load of air so the ECU has calculated how much fuel is needed and still injects as it's unaware that it has vented out.

Not often that this causes harm if at all

 

Lol, that too

 

Cheers chaps, a lot to think about, now where to find the money...

 

Panel filter, exhaust with Decat/sports cat and a remap.

The remap will improve the drivability of the car and give you the best out of the mods. Mine gave me more power and improved my fuel economy.

 

Remaps seem to be all over the place price wise, how much for the first map generally?

 

Re the dumpvalve: the MAF on these cars measures the EXACT amount of air entering so as the ecu can inject the correct amount of fuel.

When the dumpvalve vents to atmosphere, that air has been measured, and fuel will be added for it, even though it's not there.

Result: it will run rich, wasting fuel.
The excess fuel can cause borewash, premature wear, and premature deterioration of your oil with all the problems THAT brings.
The excess fuel can also cause pops and bangs in the exhaust, there have been instances of Lasmbda sensors damaged, and expensive job.
The excess fuel can find it's way into, and damage any cats fitted.
The overfuelling can cause poor running.

All this for a chavvy noise and poor engine performance?

There are loads of people on here who have gone back to a recirculating d.v and been amazed at how much better the car is. Why not join their ranks?

 

This is exactly what i've done on my classic V3 STi and it's amazing to drive now.

Thinking about coilovers, Decent panel filter and cat back exhaust next.

 

Wow the dump valve issue is really bothering me now, I haven't had the car long and had to replace the engine due to an exhaust valve breaking a peice off, I was told a forge dump valve is the best you can get and I really am keen to minimise damage wear, how quickly can the dump valve problems occur?

 

how longs a piece of string

 

Forge is a good make, but they ALSO make recirculating dumpvalves, which are the ones to go for on a Scoob.

 

seroiusly though if you took away the chavtastic sound and you had a choice of 2 valves one of which has a very high chance of doing dmg to the engine would you need to think about which one to go for.

im sure it would be cheaper to make a sound system with a micro switch activation on the throttle that you had recorded the chavtastic sound on than a rebuild of the engine after it has gone bang

 

After spending £1k on a low mileage engine hopefully nothing is going bang, I have had enough bad luck!!!

 

I think mine was £450. It was one of Bob Rawles deal's.

Just seen hes doing it again
https://www.scoobynet.com/group-buys...group-buy.html

 

How much better will the car run with the oe d/v and is there conclusive evidence of engine wear, sorry to go over old ground but most scoobs I see running around have a vta running? If it is a serious problem I feel like I should be telling other owners!!!

 

VTA is less of an issue if mapped in and no issue if running MAFless!

 

do you like to gamble simple as matey there is an after market vent thet does better or there is an aftermarket that goes wosh, you couls spend ages discussiion witch is best but at the end of the day there is no opton for a car mech its that simple

 

So there is no vta that is any good and the dual vta/recirc are the same? It just surprises me as so many people run dump valves, I am no mechanic though and thanks for all the info people!!!

 

If you run a dumpvalve without having it mapped, every time you change gear whilst on boost you are venting the air that your maf has calculated to be recirculated back into the system, so yes your car will run slightly rich.
Lots of people do run dumpvalves but they do not offer any performance gain over the std unit. If you feel you must fit one and want to have total piece of mind ,then get a decent mapper to remap the car with the dumpvalve fitted.

The vta/recirc are a waste of time as well , as they do one not the other,as they still vent the excess air.At the end of the day it is your car and your money so your choice .

 

drugs and laundered diesel