Engine goes off at low speed
#1
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Hi,the problem I have with my car is this:when I drive with low speed and push the brake or when I stop at stoplights the engine goes off,or I see the rpm go down to 200 and then go again normal.This happens often lately and always when I am in traffic or go down quickly to 40-30klm/h.I have changed the maf,and the fuel pump rellay but nothing,also the fuel pump is new.Car specs Subaru Impreza WRX my2005.Today I wanted to stop and the engine did go off,exactly when I pushed the clutch all the way in.Can anybody help?
#4
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Also check you have no split or loose vacuum pipes/tubes and that the recirculation valve or BOV is still mounted tightly to the intercooler as air leaks here will cause the engine to stall at low revs.
#5
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Yeah as above or....
I just had the same problem on my classic sti.Found it was the idle control valve. I slackened the screws and moved it a little until it idled properly, its spot on now.
I just had the same problem on my classic sti.Found it was the idle control valve. I slackened the screws and moved it a little until it idled properly, its spot on now.
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#6
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I was wrong before about the idle air control valve and did not cleaned it.Tomorrow I will let the mechanic clean the idle air control valve(can someone send me a link or picture so I am sure what you are talking about?),I have the Greddy RS Bov with the recirculation kit,should I take it off and install again the original BOV?
#7
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big debate on this, but if it's recirculating then no - it should be fine, 1 other thing if it's like the turbosmart 1 with adjustable tension.
If it has adjustable spring tension then ensure that it is correctly set as that will cause low RPM stalls, simply turn in direction that says harder then rev engine and if stalling stopped it's set.
If it has adjustable spring tension then ensure that it is correctly set as that will cause low RPM stalls, simply turn in direction that says harder then rev engine and if stalling stopped it's set.
Last edited by BlobEyedRex; 04 May 2011 at 11:51 AM.
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#9
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may also be worth just checking piston isn't stuck open as that's usually quick thing to do or just refit old recirculation valve to eliminate it, it's step i would take as easily done.
#10
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Idle air control valve cleaned and olb bov fitted so,would be the best thing.I also found this http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781242,I hope it will fix the problem.When I drive with higher speeds I dont have any problem,or any other problem at all,only this one stupid problem
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#11
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well if above items mentioned all OK, have you done an ECU reset could be fuel table has become corrupted. I had a problem last year in 2nd gear at around 3000 rpm engine would loose power for a few seconds then kick in again and a reset cleared that for me.
#13
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One method which also worked for me
1. Disconnect battery
2. turn ignition to on then either press brake pedal a few times (it's the brake lights that drain any residual power)
Although i think it already had done this as my stereo was on and as soon as ignition went to accessory i saw the display flash on for a second then go dead.
and I left like this for 15 minutes just to ensure, then when i went for a drive I could tell it was relearning as car felt different and this process depending on how you drive can take a while.
There is a way to get the ECU to learn super fast on the Net but it requires a straight & quiet road to perform this,
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...tLearningTrick
but i was happy to let it do it in it's own time & to be honest it just happened but the issue i had was gone after doing this, even during the so called learning period
1. Disconnect battery
2. turn ignition to on then either press brake pedal a few times (it's the brake lights that drain any residual power)
Although i think it already had done this as my stereo was on and as soon as ignition went to accessory i saw the display flash on for a second then go dead.
and I left like this for 15 minutes just to ensure, then when i went for a drive I could tell it was relearning as car felt different and this process depending on how you drive can take a while.
There is a way to get the ECU to learn super fast on the Net but it requires a straight & quiet road to perform this,
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...tLearningTrick
but i was happy to let it do it in it's own time & to be honest it just happened but the issue i had was gone after doing this, even during the so called learning period
#16
#17
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I just talked on the phone with my friend mechanic,he cleaned the idle air control,it needed to be cleaned and I think the most important the gasket was cut.I hope the problem will not again happen.Thankx to all of you
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