best performance and handling mods??
#2
Brakes first: those on the 98 cars should never have been fitted to any so-called performance car
Then uprated rear arb, solid droplinks all round, maybe anti-lift kit and a decent geometry setup.
Now you will be able to corner faster and stop better!
After this it gets expensive, since the 98 ecu isn't mappable..........
Then uprated rear arb, solid droplinks all round, maybe anti-lift kit and a decent geometry setup.
Now you will be able to corner faster and stop better!
After this it gets expensive, since the 98 ecu isn't mappable..........
#4
Scooby Senior
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From: Slowly rebuilding the kit of bits into a car...
Jeff you should have tried a '97 car....
Whiteline rear ARB is the best value mod on my car, 22mm will transform the handling of your car.
Upgraded brakes are next on the list.
dunx
Whiteline rear ARB is the best value mod on my car, 22mm will transform the handling of your car.
Upgraded brakes are next on the list.
dunx
#5
I'd just fit nice exhaust system, colour code anything that isn't eg skirts, mirriors, get some nice 2nd rims or get yours refurbed
#6
I wouldn't bother with handling mines standard and and handles like its on rails, brakes maybe an idea if you drive it hard, i don't drive mine that hard so happy with standard.
I'd just fit nice exhaust system, colour code anything that isn't eg skirts, mirriors, get some nice 2nd rims or get yours refurbed
I'd just fit nice exhaust system, colour code anything that isn't eg skirts, mirriors, get some nice 2nd rims or get yours refurbed
#7
thanks guys will try and sort out brakes first then, as for the unmappable ecu on the 98 model am i wrong in thinking this relates to early 98 models as mine was registered sept 98 if that makes a difference
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#8
You MIGHT be lucky: mine was registered September 98 and has the early unmappable ecu
Remember: registered Sept, probably BUILT May, or even before.
In 1998, dealers could only have ONE CAR per month, that was the quota
Remember: registered Sept, probably BUILT May, or even before.
In 1998, dealers could only have ONE CAR per month, that was the quota
#9
I wouldn't bother with handling mines standard and and handles like its on rails, brakes maybe an idea if you drive it hard, i don't drive mine that hard so happy with standard.
I'd just fit nice exhaust system, colour code anything that isn't eg skirts, mirriors, get some nice 2nd rims or get yours refurbed
I'd just fit nice exhaust system, colour code anything that isn't eg skirts, mirriors, get some nice 2nd rims or get yours refurbed
#10
Which years did classics have mappable ecus??
If it helps, on my 97 wrx ive got subaru 4 pots on the front and 2s on the back, front with drilled and grooved disks, it really does make a hell of a difference.
If it helps, on my 97 wrx ive got subaru 4 pots on the front and 2s on the back, front with drilled and grooved disks, it really does make a hell of a difference.
#11
get some brembo brakes worth the extra and can be had for not to much money second hand sell your 4 pots and probably only looking at £200 on top for brembo if your 4 pots are in good working order/condition
#15
I may be wrong but if your coil pack is in the centre of the manifold then your 98 can't have the ECU mapped. Needs a new ECU (like mine) which I've been told is around £800 for a Simtek and map.
If it's to the right then you're ok and you have a later car.
If it's to the right then you're ok and you have a later car.
#16
They will only fit under STi wheels, although the rears fit under WRX wheels, so further outlay for bigger wheels.
#17
If you are on a budget, fit a good second had set of 4 pots to the front, with different pads, white line anti lift kit to the front to correct the castor, and a decent 4 wheel geometry, run about -1 deg camber on the front, this should dial out all that under steer going into bends, then look at getting the rear arb, when you have more funds, you can go further and lock everything down tight with uprated bushes, but these will introduce noise into the cabin, but will give you very predictable handling.
Too many people go the performance upgrade route first, but it is no good if you can't use it or even stop the car, the Subaru has good grip but handling can be improved by simple modifications.
Too many people go the performance upgrade route first, but it is no good if you can't use it or even stop the car, the Subaru has good grip but handling can be improved by simple modifications.
#18
Brakes first: those on the 98 cars should never have been fitted to any so-called performance car
Then uprated rear arb, solid droplinks all round, maybe anti-lift kit and a decent geometry setup.
Now you will be able to corner faster and stop better!
After this it gets expensive, since the 98 ecu isn't mappable..........
Then uprated rear arb, solid droplinks all round, maybe anti-lift kit and a decent geometry setup.
Now you will be able to corner faster and stop better!
After this it gets expensive, since the 98 ecu isn't mappable..........
#19
Hi Alcazar
I saw your post in number 2 slot, i was just trying to fill in with more info, like 4 pots and pads for the brakes, and explaing what the antilift kit provides on the classic, goemetry setup is dependent on how you want the car to behave and under what conditions, you mention solid drop links to contol the ARB, but further to that I added uprated bushes all round, but these come with a down side, if used as a daily commute car.
I saw your post in number 2 slot, i was just trying to fill in with more info, like 4 pots and pads for the brakes, and explaing what the antilift kit provides on the classic, goemetry setup is dependent on how you want the car to behave and under what conditions, you mention solid drop links to contol the ARB, but further to that I added uprated bushes all round, but these come with a down side, if used as a daily commute car.
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