sorted my boost problems on the car was faulty maf sensor,how high can i run the boost so its still safe,and the ecu in the car is an sc,would it be better to run a z4,the car is totaly standed except for cat back exhaust and dump valve,its just that it does not feel quick but is that because it is standed as my last one was alot quicker so what things could i do to it to make it abit quicker of the mark without spending daft money,any help.thanks ste
run the car with the z4 ecu in,or shall i try it with the origianal ecu and see how it goes
forgot to say car is a 96 sti wagon

 

anybody

 

mbc, 1.1bar, any more and your fuel cut will kick in

 

feels slow for an sti,is that because its standed,if i fit a decat,airfilter and fuel pump,will it make much diffrence

 

The SC ecu and z4 ecu are near identical in terms of map:

SC (STi chipped) - SAME AS Z4 - Ver2 STi Wagon - 12.78psi
Z4 - 1995/1996 WRX - 12.78psi

What symptoms did you have before you replaced the maf?

 

it felt like it was a 2.0 gl,had no go in it at all felt like the turbo was not working,but when fitted another maf it went alot better and you could feel the turbo,had a mate have a drive as he was doing an oil leak and cambelt and he said it just felt like other subarus that are standed.thanks ste
thought the turbo could be on its way out but no smoke, play ect

 

this will not make a lot of difference. better spool and pick up with a decatted system. air filter will help it breath slightly better. uprated fuel pump will ensure enough fuel gets to the cylinders. However this is all governed by the ECU which as has been stated previously will max out at 0.9 bar (12.78psi).

Addi has suggested a manual boost controller (eg Dawes device). this is a rather crude way of upping your boost to aproximately 1.1 - 1.2 bar. it does not take into account the air/fuel ratio nor offer any safety for your engine. you can up the fuel pressure but you are going to need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator adding to your expense.

Safest option would be a mappable ECU. In your case an ESL daughter board. a chip that is either soldered directly on to the circuit board of your ECU or put in a socket on the ECU. This will allow a mapper to adjust all the parameters to make your car safe, boost level, air/fuel ratio, timing/advance, boost cut, fuel cut etc etc. the problem is it is not cheap initially.

You pays your money you takes your changes my friend simple as. For what it is worth i ran my 95 WRX import with an AFPR and a Dawes Device for about a year. I had to feather the throttle in 5th as it had a tendency to hit boost cut between 1.1 ans 1.2 bar. i didn't have a problem in that time but eventually went down the new engine build route with a proper ECU.

 

thanks for the advice,it had a manual boost controller on it but took that of asap.i think its because the car has never been touched that it dont feel quick must of bought a slow one,never mind will get it all done proper when i get some funds together,thanks ste