"Hello all" my subaru is a 1995 m reg WRX import wagon its the preface lift (if this helps) . Someone might of asked this question before but will a version 2 STI heads fit my wrx engine ?? They have soild lifters not hydrolics ?? Not sure what my heads are as in the process of taking the engine out .Also is there any benifits to fit these STI heads to my wrx engine?? As always infomation is priceless cheers si

 

It would defo benefit from STI heads as they flow alot better and the cams are better too.

 

The lifters are hydraulic like the wrx heads so IMO not really worth the swap due to the time cost in fitting them.....Version 2 Type RA heads or version 3/4 STI/Type RA heads would be the better choice

 

Sorry my bad as above,jay is right ver3/4 are solid and much better not ver 1/2

 

The advert is saying version 2 soild lifters how can i tell if soild or hydro sorry for being clueless ?? My head gasket has gone so was thinking of the benifits as my heads have to come off cheers for the responce

 

neither v1/2 or 3/4 are solid lifters both are shimmed lifters.

 

Version 1/2 WRX and STI have hydraulic lifters, Version 3-6 WRX outer shim buckets.

Version 1/2 TYpe RA's have under bucket shims as do Version 3-6 STI's.

 

+1


Mick

 

It defo says late version2 sti heads solid not like early hydro?? Shall i keep well away or is there a way i can tell just by looking ?? Also what would you exspect to pay heads cams and cover?? cheers guys

 

Agree

 

Have a set of verson 1 RA 555 under shim heads minters they are CHEAP AT A 100ER

 

The first ever set of impreza heads to have solid lifters was the v1-2 sti ra, all the rest of the v1-v2 uk/wrx/sti heads are hydraulic lifters. The only way for you to know is to remove a camshaft and pull out a lifter to see what type it is and to check the cam identification marks.

Here's some pics of my v2 sti ra heads with solid lifters make note of the cam marking lines, the term 'solid lifters' refers to the buckets being solid with under bucket shims.



Camshaft identification lines.


Solid buckets (lifters) with 'top hat' inner shims


Top of valve spring assy, top hat shim fitted on the top of the left hand one. The top of the valve assy sits close to the top of the bucket guides.


And just for comparison, the sti ra valves will have INKO marked on the inlet valve face and EXKO marked on the exhaust valve face. V1-2 wrx/uk/sti valves (hydraulic lifters) will be marked as follows. Inlet = I251 or I252. Exhaust = E282 or E283. See below for difference between the valve lengths both pictured are exhaust valve's.



Hope this helps, sorry if i have overdone it a bit.

Rob

 

Cheers BLACKSTI97 and SLAB and outstanding ROB thanks alots guys real help

 

Hello all just to up date and ask a few questions. Engine is out (very easy) without problems.Was just wondering when i taken the cam plastic covers off there is a notch on top ever side is this the timing mark?? that i line up with the the notch on the pullies?? Also is there any way off stoping the fly wheel going round so i can get the crank pullie off?? As always your addvice is priceless cheers si

 

yes there is a mark but you will be able to see on the plastic behind the pulleys once you have removed 3 (sides & centre) front plastic covers and for the front pulley you will need a tool for it which goes in front of the crank pulley or you get a ratchet and use the famous hammer on it but i dont know if this is advisable.

 

Cheers BLACKSTI97 was just wondering if there is a way of locking the fly wheel as it keeps moving got a screw driver in the cogs but still keeps slipping and i very much like to keep my knuckles.Just to add the engine is out sitting on axel stands which is making it more difficult cheer si.

 

just put a ratchet with a socket on the front pulley then tap it with a hammer it should come out unless is very tight then you will need the correct tool for it bud.

 

you can lock the flywheel off with a small spanner locked off on one of the long bolts on the bottom of the engine that holds the gearbox on, hope that makes sense

 

BLACKSTI97 tight ent the word like aksing my gaffer for a pay rise lol.Cheers PIDrifter does make sense mate will give a go tomoz after workcheers for the responce guys

 

If the engine is still in the car and the t.belt is still on> Put the car in 5th gear. ...........no specialist tools required unless you have the engine out then use the side holes to lock the flywheel can be done with a flat strong screwdriver to.

Regards to the heads......you will see no overall benefit with the RA heads unless you are going to get the car mapped for the increased lift of the cams. If you are not going to be paying out the extra money then just give the standard heads a refresh and let it be.

 

cheers baly yeah the engine is out and will get the car mapped allso would like an engine managment up grade open to surgestions also got 3" turbo back exhaust system to put on fully wrapped down pipe wrapped stanard ported headers tdo5 turbo any other surgestions welcome cheers si

 

Hello all got the crank pully off thanks to PIDrifter,s sneaky little ways got the cam pullies off and cam covers .Now i need information on the order i take the head bolts off any diarams or photos would be a very big help and thanks to all thats posted and helped me get this far cheers si

 

glad to be of service all of the service manuals can be found in the technical section of the forum if you search for them

 

Folks, does anyone have part numbers for these top hat shims? I have the same heads sitting on a bench. One bucket is missing the super tiny top hat shim that sits on top of the valve, as shown in the 3rd picture of this post. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Hey all, did anyone manage to find a part number for these? Have these in my Sti, but its not the original motor, so the subaru dealer cant do jack without a part number, or the original VIN number