Hi, my gauges came today i got 3 x prosport ones boost,water temp,oil pressure. my question is can i just tap off the oem oil switch or will i have to install the sand/plate? thanks

 

You can use a sandwitch plate but its better to get to the sender directly. Its more accurate. There are quite a few tutorials I haven't done it myself so can't give you step by step instrucions as I'm in the research process lol.

 

Remove your alternator & use an extension pipe & T piece adapter so you can run original switch & gauge switch. As mentioned previously do a search there are in depth fitting guides with pictures.

 

This will be the setup boost/water/oil..cant i just fit the sensor in where the old one is??? i just seen i post where the defi one fitted in place of the old one..

 

I had trouble with my prosport senders.... well the pressure one anyway.... it's friggin massive and you won't be able to fit it in any of the OEM locations without an extender piper as mentioned.....

The temp sender for those gauges is a **** as well, you have to buy a gallery adapter to screw it in anywhere sensible.

I used a sandwich plate and would never use one again, the temp sender is a sensitive little fella, if sat still it read true, once you were moving at speed it was easily cooled by the air and gave false readings.

 

A Defi sensor is small & will probably fit, but all the others are usually massive. Most people like to keep the original sensor as an extra warning & so they don't constantly have a warning on the dash,but it's not essential .

 

The Defi sensor fit under the alternator no problem.

I don't understand why you would keep the oe pressure sensor? the warning light won't turn on without it.

 

then there is a bung on cylinder three underneath the intercooler this is where the temperature one plugs in.

this is the best way to fit the prosport gauges, the sandwich plate is not very accurate.

it all fits and reads great i know this as i have fitted them.

 

As above: pressure sender goes where the OE pressure SWITCH is, but most are physically too big to fit, so need an extension, and many people insist on using a T-piece on the end so they can have the OE switch in place too........why, I duuno, since that switch is redundant once you get a gauge, it only comes on at around 11psi at which point your engine is laready fekked

Temperature sender in the tappings which are presently under a bung on top of cylinder No3, rear, o/s.

DO NOT be lazy and put it elsewhere, there is a reason Subaru have chosen that spot: cylinder No3 runs hottest and is most likley to cause trouble so we need to know HOW hot it is, OK?

 

Thanks for all they replys i will be having a go this weekend and will post the end results.

 

Take off the original oil pressure switch (near the alternator) and throw it in the bin, it's fecking useless. By the time its activated the damage has already been done.

Put the oil pressure switch for the new gauge in place of the old one.

 

The problem with cheaper gauges tends to BE the new sender, which is often far too big to fit where the original switch did, hence the need for an extension piece.

 

Just been down pirtek and got this made up only cost 10er job done.

 

Pretty good, what's Pirtek?

 

http://www.pirtek.co.uk/ there is one in swansea near my work.

 

pipe is in...




have not put the gauge in as yet too dam cold...

 

whats the matter with you lol put some gloves on put my mudflaps on in the pissing sown rain

 

Been busy today its not finished yet but you can see how its going to look...