any ideas?
#1
just picked me car up (my98 uk with no mods) from the garage after having the heater matrix changed. thought i'd go for a good thrash but it seems to have developed a bad 'cough' under heavy acceleration round about 4000 revs. there seems to be a big thump and the engine loses power momentarily which is a bit unnerving while overtaking.
Anybody got any ideas?
Anybody got any ideas?
#2
just explained the situation to the local main dealer who says this is quite normal provided no warning lights are coming up.
well that is a loads of fat nuts in my view.
surely something aint right when you get a violent cough under heavy acceleration.
FANNIES!
well that is a loads of fat nuts in my view.
surely something aint right when you get a violent cough under heavy acceleration.
FANNIES!
#4
Hi,
Sounds very similar to a problem I had following a 7.5k service, it ended up being the boost solenoid? apparently it can get contaminated with oil and symptoms sound exactly same as yours. Not sure what work is involved having the matrix done tho, but has your oil been refilled?
If it is this then it's a quick fix. My dealer diagnosed this for me over the phone straight away and took them 10min to clean it...which dealer you been speaking to because it sounds like they're talking out their ****! Can't believe a Subaru dealer telling you loss of power/banging etc is normal
Sounds very similar to a problem I had following a 7.5k service, it ended up being the boost solenoid? apparently it can get contaminated with oil and symptoms sound exactly same as yours. Not sure what work is involved having the matrix done tho, but has your oil been refilled?
If it is this then it's a quick fix. My dealer diagnosed this for me over the phone straight away and took them 10min to clean it...which dealer you been speaking to because it sounds like they're talking out their ****! Can't believe a Subaru dealer telling you loss of power/banging etc is normal
#5
melon,
thanks for the note. heater matrix means all the dash out and a few struts on the bulkhead i think. think the oil stays in but you could be on to something with the contamination thing. when i picked the thing up the dash was covered in that horrible greasy crap that makes your dash black and shiney. mate it was all over the place so maybe that might have something to do with it.
have you any idea wot bit to clean?
thanks for the help.
thanks for the note. heater matrix means all the dash out and a few struts on the bulkhead i think. think the oil stays in but you could be on to something with the contamination thing. when i picked the thing up the dash was covered in that horrible greasy crap that makes your dash black and shiney. mate it was all over the place so maybe that might have something to do with it.
have you any idea wot bit to clean?
thanks for the help.
#6
Sorry Fatnutsac, no idea but there has defo been loads of posts on here before identifying the part and what to use to clean it. If search is down try going back a few weeks topics and I'm sure you'll find something cos it seems to be fairly common, or try posting again with cleaning boost solenoid in title?
Hope you get it sorted mate
melon
Hope you get it sorted mate
melon
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#8
Sounds like fuel cut caused by over boost (boost control solenoid not working correctly - needs cleaning?). Could be that the mechanic doing the heater matrix (which involves quite a bit of wireing disturbance) may have dislodged something. Get them to fix it, it is not 'normal'.
Sorry forgot; to clean the solenoid (located on the drivers side behind the airfilter, connector at the top, black body and two tubes coming out of the bottom). Trace the tubes to where they are connected, remove, squirt carb cleaner or similar down each tube and blow out with compressed air, then re-connect or re-connect before the cleaner has dried and go for a quick blast. The restrictor in the little tube connected to the turbo outlet can also be clogged, same process as above.
[Edited by MattRus - 4/30/2002 5:51:15 PM]
Sorry forgot; to clean the solenoid (located on the drivers side behind the airfilter, connector at the top, black body and two tubes coming out of the bottom). Trace the tubes to where they are connected, remove, squirt carb cleaner or similar down each tube and blow out with compressed air, then re-connect or re-connect before the cleaner has dried and go for a quick blast. The restrictor in the little tube connected to the turbo outlet can also be clogged, same process as above.
[Edited by MattRus - 4/30/2002 5:51:15 PM]
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