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Old 26 December 2011 | 06:03 PM
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Default Problem after fitting rad...

My guy changed the rad the other day on the motor,but now if I turn the heating to cold it stays hot ! Plus the two fans housed in the rad don't come on,left the car on for 5 mins but still didn't come on...But more importantly is why the heating is hot when set to cold but worked perfect before the new rad.
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Old 26 December 2011 | 06:17 PM
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The heating i cant answer. The fans come on at a set temp. In the 90's from memory so just leaving it 5mins isnt proof there not working. Has the car over heated? Whats the temp guage doing?
Old 26 December 2011 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbotits
The heating i cant answer. The fans come on at a set temp. In the 90's from memory so just leaving it 5mins isnt proof there not working. Has the car over heated? Whats the temp guage doing?
That's the other strange thing,before the new rad was fitted it took about 10 mins to reach temp,now about 2-3 mins !! And it stays put,doesnt move how ever much I rag it,leave it running etc...
Old 26 December 2011 | 06:34 PM
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You have an airlock which would cause the no heat. Your fan shouldn't come on after 5 mins of running either anyway.
Old 26 December 2011 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by scubbay
You have an airlock which would cause the no heat. Your fan shouldn't come on after 5 mins of running either anyway.
Cheers,to sort the air lock he takes the pipe off near the top of the rad and the cap off where you put the water and squeeses another thicker pipe down below...correct ?..As that is what I have seen him doing,and did do for ages
Old 26 December 2011 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by scubbay
You have an airlock which would cause the no heat. Your fan shouldn't come on after 5 mins of running either anyway.

I DO have heat,all the time,even when set to cold
Old 26 December 2011 | 06:44 PM
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did you empty and flush the old rad out most likey the rad was blocked with crap the reason it took so long to heat up,
where as the new rad is completley clean and making it heat up faster leave it running till the temp raches its proper mark and the fans kicks in
the hot and cold situation is the flap that shuts off the heat from the heatermatrix rad behind the dash working properly
Old 26 December 2011 | 06:48 PM
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Hi...He took out all the water and anti freeze and drained it fully,then filled with water and 4L of anti freeze,but before the cold was cold and hot was warm,now everything is hot lol ! Also if I try it with air con,it's still hot !! But did work before
Old 26 December 2011 | 06:54 PM
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Ok you can almost rule out an issue with the coolant, are your heater cables connected? If you are sure your 'man' has bled out the cooling system correctly???
Old 26 December 2011 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by r1c
Ok you can almost rule out an issue with the coolant, are your heater cables connected? If you are sure your 'man' has bled out the cooling system correctly???
Not 100% sure he did it right,but 100% sure it was fully working before,he said he was going to bleed the air again and see if that works
Old 26 December 2011 | 07:01 PM
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Also the cables must be connected as when I turn it to cold it makes a different sound,but still hot
Old 26 December 2011 | 07:37 PM
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Were did he fill the coolant system up from?
Old 26 December 2011 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by -shane-
Were did he fill the coolant system up from?
The header tank,I was also told to fill up the plastic one by the battery (the over-flow one)

I don't know if it connected,but for the first few days when I stop after a few mins driving water would leak near the oil filter and **** loads of steam would appear...This has now stopped,but the header tank was and still is FULL to the brim.
Old 26 December 2011 | 07:56 PM
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the hot/cold issue is to do with the temp control on the dash which works the heater matrix, bit funny how it only started with the new rad being fitted though,. anyway how come you got banned for 15 days,,lol
Old 26 December 2011 | 07:58 PM
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Its always best to fill up from the top hose on the coolant tank that go's to the turbo as this is the highest point of the system and helps with air locks
Old 26 December 2011 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by addi monster
the hot/cold issue is to do with the temp control on the dash which works the heater matrix, bit funny how it only started with the new rad being fitted though,. anyway how come you got banned for 15 days,,lol
10 days !! lol....Being racist (to a pole) ! BUT he wound me up about being ripped off on the brakes I bought and the guy stole mine and others money ! So I bit and told him to go away,but in a slightly more rude way !
Old 26 December 2011 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by -shane-
Its always best to fill up from the top hose on the coolant tank that go's to the turbo as this is the highest point of the system and helps with air locks
OK,cheers...Will get him to drop it all out tomorrow and start again.
Cheers
Old 26 December 2011 | 10:46 PM
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1. Drain out ALL old coolant.
2. ENSURE HEATER IS SET TO HOT, flush out system.
3. Leaving heater on hot, refill via the REAR pipe off the metal header tank, V E R Y S L O W L Y, using a funnel, DO NOT allow it to gulp air in. Mine took over half an hour to fill.

Replace rear pipe, top up metal header tank, run engine with header tank cap OFF until it gets hot, topping/mopping up as necessary, watching for bubbles.
Once it GETS hot, replace header tank cap, drive round block, allow to cool, check and top up as necessary.

Two points: ALWAYS do ALL this with the heater set to hot.

There IS NO WAY to successfully bleed an Impreza coolant system
Old 26 December 2011 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by alcazar
1. Drain out ALL old coolant.
2. ENSURE HEATER IS SET TO HOT, flush out system.
3. Leaving heater on hot, refill via the REAR pipe off the metal header tank, V E R Y S L O W L Y, using a funnel, DO NOT allow it to gulp air in. Mine took over half an hour to fill.

Replace rear pipe, top up metal header tank, run engine with header tank cap OFF until it gets hot, topping/mopping up as necessary, watching for bubbles.
Once it GETS hot, replace header tank cap, drive round block, allow to cool, check and top up as necessary.

Two points: ALWAYS do ALL this with the heater set to hot.

There IS NO WAY to successfully bleed an Impreza coolant system
As this man say's, Ive never done any engine work on my car other than fit a filter etc but i did my own radiator change, done the above and worked perfect, For a week or so after keep a close eye on metal coolant tank as it will loose a bit
Old 26 December 2011 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by alcazar
1. Drain out ALL old coolant.
2. ENSURE HEATER IS SET TO HOT, flush out system.
3. Leaving heater on hot, refill via the REAR pipe off the metal header tank, V E R Y S L O W L Y, using a funnel, DO NOT allow it to gulp air in. Mine took over half an hour to fill.

Replace rear pipe, top up metal header tank, run engine with header tank cap OFF until it gets hot, topping/mopping up as necessary, watching for bubbles.
Once it GETS hot, replace header tank cap, drive round block, allow to cool, check and top up as necessary.

Two points: ALWAYS do ALL this with the heater set to hot.

There IS NO WAY to successfully bleed an Impreza coolant system

Cheers for that,this will p1ss Dale off now giving him this to do tomorrow lol
Cheers again
Old 27 December 2011 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by jimmyinrugby
10 days !! lol....Being racist (to a pole) ! BUT he wound me up about being ripped off on the brakes I bought and the guy stole mine and others money ! So I bit and told him to go away,but in a slightly more rude way !
lmao we all make mistakes even me
Old 27 December 2011 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by addi monster
lmao we all make mistakes even me

PMSL !!
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