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Old 27 January 2012 | 08:17 PM
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Default dump valve safe or not

right i know most on here hate them but i would like to fit a dump valve to my 98 2000 turbo if only for a while but am worried if it will course my engine to play up or destroy it or will it be ok
Old 27 January 2012 | 08:19 PM
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Keep to the recirc DV mate.

Unless anything over 500bhp no point.

Steve
Old 27 January 2012 | 08:24 PM
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I would stick with the recirculating valve as it could confuse the ecu if you are dumping air that has already passed the maf sensor.
Old 27 January 2012 | 08:24 PM
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no point but if you want one then go for it i had them on a couple of my old scoobs with no problems just make sure you get a good one not a cheap ebay job.
Old 27 January 2012 | 08:27 PM
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got a baileys dv on mine came with the car when i bought it,had it on the rolling road for diagnostics power run etc and it caused no issues,does get annoying sometimes though as it is loud
Old 27 January 2012 | 08:30 PM
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only want it for the sound and will probes have enough of it in a few months time just fancy one thats all lol
Old 27 January 2012 | 08:31 PM
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As you already know, pointless unless you have a MAF-less ECU set up... but all that will happen is that you'll run a bit rich for a fraction when you get back on the throttle.
Old 27 January 2012 | 08:47 PM
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I'd avoid a baileys one, they are know to stick slightly open causing issues. If you have to have one then go with a forge or if budget permits, HKS.
Old 27 January 2012 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by MattyB1983
I'd avoid a baileys one, they are know to stick slightly open causing issues. If you have to have one then go with a forge or if budget permits, HKS.
ye think it would be a HKS if i am to have one just want to make sure im not going to cause my self any problems
Old 27 January 2012 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Gigsy
As you already know, pointless unless you have a MAF-less ECU set up... but all that will happen is that you'll run a bit rich for a fraction when you get back on the throttle.

And what he HASN'T said is that the over-fuelling causes:

Borewash
Damage to cats
Posibble inlet valve damage
Oil dilution by petrol
Upper cylinder wear.....

So nothing to worry about.

On a SCOOBY engine? You HAVE to be joking?
Old 27 January 2012 | 09:09 PM
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I love these threads (popcorn in hand)

There is plenty that can be said, but from my point of view listen to other peoples opinions, they cause poor running.

Something to chuckle at if your a BOV mad
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_fG_b65WiU

Rob
Old 27 January 2012 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by alcazar
And what he HASN'T said is that the over-fuelling causes:

Borewash
Damage to cats
Posibble inlet valve damage
Oil dilution by petrol
Upper cylinder wear.....

So nothing to worry about.

On a SCOOBY engine? You HAVE to be joking?

woooo ok thanks mate i think its something i will give a miss
Old 27 January 2012 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Stevesbluewrx
Keep to the recirc DV mate.

Unless anything over 500bhp no point.

Steve
I agree with recirc point but were does the 500hp threshold come from?
The OM dv could be leaking boost back into the inlet tract long before that and how would you know it ? A good turbo could mask any leakage but work a lot harder in doing it.
Trev
Old 27 January 2012 | 09:45 PM
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just out of interest how come there are so many running bov without issues
Old 27 January 2012 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MattyB1983
I'd avoid a baileys one, they are know to stick slightly open causing issues. If you have to have one then go with a forge or if budget permits, HKS.
HKS +1

I've got a HKS SSQV on my 2005 UK STi with no trouble at all.

Last edited by malevolent_sti; 27 January 2012 at 10:03 PM. Reason: Extra!
Old 27 January 2012 | 10:02 PM
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Good brand recirc are good, cheap baileys are not

I ran 430 with no leaks

Rob
Old 28 January 2012 | 05:12 PM
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My old classic came with one (baileys one) it became tiresome and so I ended up reverting to standard. Plenty of scoobs and other turbo cars run with a "chav horn" fitted - best bet is to try yourself
Old 28 January 2012 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob Day
I love these threads (popcorn in hand)

There is plenty that can be said, but from my point of view listen to other peoples opinions, they cause poor running.

Something to chuckle at if your a BOV mad
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_fG_b65WiU

Rob
I saw this video and went away and bought a GRB deceptor for my STI, can quite honestly say that it is a cracking piece of kit for anyone looking to upgrade the stock recirc valve. CAn be set to full recirc or fully venting, I have mines slightly venting.
Massive improvement when changing gears coming back onto boost.

Very pleased.

For all the firm believers out that stock is best, I would say upgrading even to decent recirc is a good move
Old 28 January 2012 | 08:09 PM
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Why?
What do you gain?
How did you measure it?
Old 28 January 2012 | 08:25 PM
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got one on my car and works very well and with a good sound. its just a cheapy mass made version that different companys use with there own name. not of this £200+ plus versions lol
Old 28 January 2012 | 09:02 PM
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The only way you can tell if your gaining imho is if you go from OEM to after market and feel a better response through the gears, that you didnt through the OEM, that would say to me that your OEM was on its way out. The OEM is by far the better valve for under 400+bhp apart from expensive after market recirc.

VTA's are far from ideal.

Ideal you would need to drive the car on a RR to get proper realistic verdict if you think the VTA is giving you better throttle response through the gears.

For me I found they were sh!te. I even bought a recirc kit for a HKS SSQV which was one of the best you could buy at the time, and for a £300< valve to recirc is what ****e, it did nothing over what a OEM valve would do, in fact it was very poor.

Rob
Old 29 January 2012 | 12:59 AM
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My classic didn't have a valve fitted at all! Everytime
I changed gear it "fluttered" (yes I know it's compressor stall). Wasn't me who removed it!
Old 29 January 2012 | 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by MJL
My classic didn't have a valve fitted at all! Everytime
I changed gear it "fluttered" (yes I know it's compressor stall). Wasn't me who removed it!

depending on what turbo you have, you might find that it will shorten its life span, at could cause other engine damage if it brakes
Old 29 January 2012 | 01:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Ian
depending on what turbo you have, you might find that it will shorten its life span, at could cause other engine damage if it brakes
Car is long gone! Not sure what turbo it had fitted either.

In guessing the vf turbos arent best for this?
Old 29 January 2012 | 11:23 AM
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apparently not, ive never had a problem with d/vs on any car ive had
Old 29 January 2012 | 12:38 PM
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above is wrong.

even on the standard set up, the air goes back into the inlet pipe and then into the turbo. and that is after the maf sensor. there should not be any fuel in the air at all in that part.
Old 29 January 2012 | 01:18 PM
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i think its boll4cks, i have a dv on mine, no problems..
Old 29 January 2012 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 99jdee
i think its boll4cks, i have a dv on mine, no problems that im aware of..
edited

As said some are fine, but most are pure chav, and only have meaning in life psssssssssssst
Old 29 January 2012 | 02:46 PM
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I recently fitted a Turbosmart plumback recirculating dv @ £270, I had my suspicions on the safety of my oem dv at 1.6 bar boost, partly from what I was hearing, that very occaisionly some benifit was obtained from changing to an aftermarket item but mainly because I was getting some high turbo outlet temperatures, easily 180c-185c +,this at WOT, the sensor is at the end of the turbo/intercooler connecting pipe. The car had recently made 380hp/450lbsft on the RCM rollers, the turbo is a MD321h, AVO tmic,water/ meth injection, forged 2.5 conversion, 10% meth in fuel.The indication was and has been for some time that the turbo was on it's limit and a bigger turbo /frontmount was the way to go.
I decided to invest in a new DV first and after fitting, immediately had a problem with too much boost at WOT, so it was back onto the RCM rollers and at which point I decided to use the opportunity to increase the meth in the fuel by 10% to 20%inclusion and have it mapped accordingly. It wasn't many minutes before the car produced 434hp, a jump of 54hp!. Unfortunately at this level my 650 injectors maxed out and the car was running lean, final figure 419.7hp/450lbsft @1.45bar.
Interestingly turbo outlet temps are now down to 130c at WOT and thats 50c less my TMIC has to deal with.
My view and it is just that, ok the extra meth is known to have a big impact but at some point the oem dv had started to bleed boost back into the inlet tract. The turbo masked this by having to work harder but in doing so created a substantial amount of heat having a direct impact on ACT's.
thanks for reading
Trev

Last edited by trevsjwood; 29 January 2012 at 06:09 PM.
Old 29 January 2012 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob Day
edited

As said some are fine, but most are pure chav, and only have meaning in life psssssssssssst
i love my pttttishhhhh valve! lol


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