Hi guys,

Well just got my car and all was fine apart from the rear shocks (which i knew about).

They're now all done, and it went back on the road yesterday.

I took it for the first drive yesterday (since driving 230 miles home where it went well). I warmed the car up properly and all seems fine. The fuel was low so I took it to Tesco for some Momentum (99) and filled her up. All seems fine again....until, about 4 miles later, hear like almost like a slight intermittent rasping noise (not all the time) from what seems like top right of engine/bulkhead when boosting (not driving hard, just up hill). Doesnt do this all the time. I turn the stereo off, and the noise is gone. However when boosting (or accelerating), the noise is there slightly, and you can hear a rattle when you back off the throttle.

The car ticks over and sounds 100% perfect when ticking over.

If you work the throttle through the rev range, you can sometimes hear the rattle (which seems more top than bottom). It doesn't really "rasp" but this is how I noticed the rattle. Also, if you rev then back off the throttle then you hear it rattle down, as if when the turbos dumping. It's a light rattle as opposed to a heavy knock but you can hear it. No smoke, overheating or anything. Ticks over smoothly, sounds nice.

So far I am thinking it could be either:
Turbo bearings or turbo related
Cam pulley?
Crank :-( .....hoping not.

There is also some wiring damage caused by a mouse under the bonnet with some stripped wires. I know this isn't the cause if the rattle, but, grasping at straws, with the new fuel could a failed knock sensor cause these symptoms? (as far as I know knock sensor was ok though)...but trying to cover all bases as I did just put the full tank in.

Cars back at my mates garage (as I only did about 15 miles in her since the new suspension, so doubly gutted).

Any help / diagnosis opinions or suggestions appreciated...I'm currently well &@£@!£ off :-(

Gallen.

 

Could it be a rusty heat shield resonating?

 

Cheers for the reply Myles - Do you know what? I Youtube'd that, and it's not totally dis-similar.... Fingers crossed it turns out to be as simple.

If it was worst case (i.e. Crank), would it not knock or tick on idle?

 

Ok so today it's been confirmed that the bottom end is gone - What a load of ****ing **** :-(

The car is a 2002 Bugeye WRX STi V7 Type UK PPP

My options are:

A) Sell as is for a project or break it (of course I dont really want to do either of these).

B) Source second hand replacement engine (and risk the same thing happening)

C) Strip down, Inspect and measure the crank to guage suitibility for a re-grind (have good engineering company that does this for us), replacing shells (?and rods?)

D) Strip down, get a new Standard Replacement Standard Crankshaft (MY01 MY02 MY03 MY04 MY05 STI): http://www.flat4online.co.uk/catalog...-my04-my05-sti £480.96

However I have also seen this (advice pls?):

Nitrided 75mm stroke Crankshaft http://www.flat4online.co.uk/catalog...-my04-my05-sti
£596.20

Would this 75mm stroke crank be suitable for my car and would it be worth doing? If so, Pros, Cons etc.

Any advice/opinions VERY MUCH appreciated.

Gallen.

 

if you do decided to do a rebuild. my advice dont buy anything from Flat4online. just do a search on scoobynet and you will see. all the best and good luck

 

as above do a search on flat4online first! re-grind is not really an option on a subaru according to some builders as as the cost of cleaning it properly (it requiresa special process due to the design) will be almost as much as a new one.

 

Thanks for the advice guys.

I'm contemplating a new crank - but additionally have checked out the prices for a brand new short OEM motor, from Subaru.

Thought process is this: pay for strip down, replacement crank, race bearings (and rods?), new gaskets etc and reassembly.... But what if there is additional issues? Even with a new crank. If there are further problems it's dead money.

The new short motor would give piece of mind... (And if bought via a credit card, I'd be additionally covered through that possibly...mmm).

I'm interested in all options, but typically, the Subaru bug of costing one thing...but then seeing what you can get for "just a bit extra" is already taking affect.

Cost of new short motor direct from Subaru is £1858 +VAT.

Obviously there is re-use of heads etc, but the cost of a recon engine is a similar price.

What do you guys think of:

Brand new Crankshaft (which one?)
Race bearings (which?)
(new rods - or re-use?) if new, which ones?
Which gaskets?
What oil pump?

Baffled as you can tell.
...I do know a fair bit about cars but TBH Scoobs are a steep learning curve and it's a subject in it's own right.

I've been unlucky with this one as it was running absolutely perfectly when I bought it. Drove home nicely. Off the road for a couple of weeks for the new suspension. Bought some lovely wheels from Maddog... Then 20 minutes back on the road and a ****ing rattle!

I appreciate your input (fully paid up Scoobynet member now as the help on here is invaluable).

Regarding the car, its never really been about money - but I do have to remain realistic about costs. I'd be happy with standard performance ...but to the future who knows? Maybe spending a bit extra in sensible places is money invested?

Opinions welcome.

 

Allen Jeffry/Engine Tuner have a good deal on a stroker rebuild at the moment. You'd be wise to give them a call first.

 

I have some questions, if you are up for it?

What mods was the car carrying when it went?
If it had been modded, had it been mapped for the mods?
Do you have any idea why it went?
Does it NEED a new crank? Can you not get away with new bearings?

Before deciding, or rebuilding, take advice from some respected tuners on here: Harvey Smith, Allan Jeffery, David O'Brien at API, Mark at Lateral.

It might help you to put together a decision and a build and to avoid the same mistakes.....

 

We do a drive in - drive out service on that car replacing the worn out parts with genuine Subaru NEW parts for £1700.00 + VAT [ £2040.00 inc VAT ]

For that you get
NEW Nitrided crank
Full set of ACL race bearings
A weight matched set of standard con rods, these are taken from stripped NEW short motors where we have upgraded to steel rods.
STi head gaskets and all necessary O rings and seals
Oil and sundries and filters

Built up fitted and checked over electronically. Drive away...

We would advise on clutch condition and flywheel and so on which would be at extra cost if they were worn.

Form a queue here guys.

David APi 01926 614333

 

That is a great price from a respected engine builder!

 

got some nice low mileage sti newage engines here £1600 all engines are in a1 condition pm me if this is of any interested

thanks scott

 

Hi guys,

Thanks for these repsonses - this is fantastic and i really DO appreciate it.
I'm currently at work (lunch) so am just checking in - but to answer alcazar:

The car was totally standard even down to the Prodrive Exhaust. The car ran perfectly (I had driven it back from where I bought it some 250 miles). Since then it had only been driven 3 miles to my friends garage to have the rear suspension replaced. I got the call from him on Saturday morning to say it was ready. It was low on fuel (Shell V Power) and so when I collected the car, I drove it for around 10-15 minutes to Tescos, where I filled it up with Momentum (which I used to run my highly tuned Henstead Motorsport Starion on), dropping my other half off on the way at the shops. Didnt use boost at all and the car warmed up fully.

After it was filled up and warmed up, I used boost on the dual carriageway which is only short - so it wasn't cained. I picked up the mrs and drove for a further 3 miles before I noticed a metallic sound on boost, going up a hill around 35 mph. The car was then driven straight back to the garage!

It's been confirmed that the big ends shot.

Scott@ScoobySpares: Thank you.
What concerns me is that it went from driving absolutely perfectly to this so quickly - which makes me nervous about a second hand unit.... - mine was running spot on. Unsure yet as to what to do so not 100% against it so food for thought. Thanks.

I do wonder about the fuel and maybe it was a bad batch or something? ...but I guesse theres no way to tell now.

Not examined the crank yet - its all still together. But with the re-grind, i've heard bad things and for the sake of going new, I dont want to repair an engine that may only last a few thousand miles obviously.

I'm really still considering options and hope to know more once everythings been taken apart.

Thanks also to APIDavid. Sounds interesting. Is there any risk of contamination from the old crank bearing/s?
Clutch etc is a "might as well" since everythings out anyway and it would be foolish not to. I will be in touch for a chat at some point...

Geri.

 

The engine gets a thorough clean throughout. We've been doing these for years in that fashion and never yet had one come back for the problem we have cured.

Clutch is always a 'maybe ' but if it has good life left we wouldn't sell one to you.

Yep gimme a ring if and when you get moving.

regards David

 

That seems very good value, noted for any future problems

 

Hi,

Do you not renew oil pump and oil modine on big end failure engines?

 

Depends upon the customers budget really. We have been rebuilding oil pumps for ever, not been a problem as we deburr the innards and assemble them properly - they are very rarely damaged.

Modines tend to get thoroughly washed out in our machine too. They are seriously expensive these days and most people on a tight budget are grateful of the saving. There is nothing inside a modine, it is a simple coil of piping that is immersed in the water - much the same as a central heating coil in a water tank in the attic. So no filters to get blocked or anything - once cleaned out they are as good as new.

Done professionally of course..................

David APi