oil temp/pressure sensor fitting question
#1
oil temp/pressure sensor fitting question
Hi guys couple of questions.
Got myself some gauges to fit and was wondering if I didn't mind not using the stock oil pressure light, could I use the existing sensor? The wiring for the gauge needs one wire as does the stock one. plus just plugging the stock wiring, will this cause the light to stay on?
Plus for the temperature sensor is it the plug on the left or the right at the back of the engine as you look under the bonnet?
Cheers
Got myself some gauges to fit and was wondering if I didn't mind not using the stock oil pressure light, could I use the existing sensor? The wiring for the gauge needs one wire as does the stock one. plus just plugging the stock wiring, will this cause the light to stay on?
Plus for the temperature sensor is it the plug on the left or the right at the back of the engine as you look under the bonnet?
Cheers
#6
Thanks
Last edited by Scoobyno1; 22 March 2012 at 04:07 PM.
#7
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To answer the OP: no, sorry, you can't use the stock oil pressure switch, since it's NOT a sensor, (sender), it's just an on/off switch, that reacts to the pressure of the oil and switches a light on on the dash if it falls below a set limit, one bar, iirc.
The oil pressure SWITCH is to be found under the alternator on the front of the engine. Yes, it has one wire going to it. It looks like a brown, black or grey mushroom with the wire coming off it's top.
You unscrew it and either discard it, as most people do, and fit the new sender in it's place, or, if the sender is too large to fit there, or for some reason you want the OE oil, pressure switch too, fit an extension T-Piece.
Meanwhile, the oil TEMPERATURE sender goes in the tappings on top of cylinder No3, (rear, driver's side), for which you will need an adpator, about £5, and a LONG, STRONG allen key to remove the bung that is in those tappings now.
HTH
The oil pressure SWITCH is to be found under the alternator on the front of the engine. Yes, it has one wire going to it. It looks like a brown, black or grey mushroom with the wire coming off it's top.
You unscrew it and either discard it, as most people do, and fit the new sender in it's place, or, if the sender is too large to fit there, or for some reason you want the OE oil, pressure switch too, fit an extension T-Piece.
Meanwhile, the oil TEMPERATURE sender goes in the tappings on top of cylinder No3, (rear, driver's side), for which you will need an adpator, about £5, and a LONG, STRONG allen key to remove the bung that is in those tappings now.
HTH
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#11
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The adaptor for the o/t gauge is turned metal, either brass, or, like mine, alloy. That does the earthing for that sender.
The other type like this:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-rem...item519e055c97 **
MAY need you to run a wire from the sender body to earth.
** That was the first I saw on e-bay, there may be others better or cheaper
The other type like this:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-rem...item519e055c97 **
MAY need you to run a wire from the sender body to earth.
** That was the first I saw on e-bay, there may be others better or cheaper
#12
The adaptor for the o/t gauge is turned metal, either brass, or, like mine, alloy. That does the earthing for that sender.
The other type like this:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-rem...item519e055c97 **
MAY need you to run a wire from the sender body to earth.
** That was the first I saw on e-bay, there may be others better or cheaper
The other type like this:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-rem...item519e055c97 **
MAY need you to run a wire from the sender body to earth.
** That was the first I saw on e-bay, there may be others better or cheaper
#15
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Yes, you could do that, but a tidier fit would be a large ring terminal with the earth wirre soldered to it, and use the threads of the sender to hold it in place, like a bolt.
BUT: depending on what iece you buy, earthing may well be included in it, so no extra wire needed, just like screwing it into the block.
When I put a more accurate water temperature gauge on, my stock gauge sender went into a fitting like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/36mm-WATER...item5d32d4ae9c
The earth is meant to go onto the little screw shown. Mine didn't have one, and, since it's in the centre of the top hose, it NEEDS an earth to bodywork, so I used the large ring terminal idea.
BUT: depending on what iece you buy, earthing may well be included in it, so no extra wire needed, just like screwing it into the block.
When I put a more accurate water temperature gauge on, my stock gauge sender went into a fitting like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/36mm-WATER...item5d32d4ae9c
The earth is meant to go onto the little screw shown. Mine didn't have one, and, since it's in the centre of the top hose, it NEEDS an earth to bodywork, so I used the large ring terminal idea.
#16
Its funny you should say that as I had thought about putting a hoop connection on so it screws on to it but the problem then arose when I see the picture above with it fitted. The base of the sender unit doesn't actually touch the adaptor to clamp it down. I think this could only be made to work if it was packed out maybe with washers? Unless there is another solution?
#17
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Its funny you should say that as I had thought about putting a hoop connection on so it screws on to it but the problem then arose when I see the picture above with it fitted. The base of the sender unit doesn't actually touch the adaptor to clamp it down. I think this could only be made to work if it was packed out maybe with washers? Unless there is another solution?
TBH, I've not heard of others having the problem using those t-pieces. Why not get one and see?
#18
Ones on order and I'm still waiting on the gauge pod to come so there's no rush yet. I'm just trying to figure it out in my head first so that if a problem arises, I'll know how to solve it. If I need them I've got some copper washers from my work and see if they would be used to pack out slightly depending on how far it screws in.
Others must have done this successfully but then they may have had the senders that have 2 terminal on the sender. Who knows?
Others must have done this successfully but then they may have had the senders that have 2 terminal on the sender. Who knows?
#20
Just to add to this, I've fitted the gauges and the t piece didn't earth the sender so had to strap the earth cable to it. If I earthed it to an earthing point on the engine then as soon as anything uses a heavy electrical load ie putting headlights on, operating windows etc, the needles of the oil temp/pressure move and stays there whilst the load is on. Now the wire from the sender to gauge had a black and white wire, the white being the signal and black earth but was told the black wouldn't be needed they'd be earthed on the engine. Connecting the black wire ad the earth on the sender, then thru needle on the oil pressure is not effected.
The problem seems to be a problem with the earthing? Right? The thing is is I leave the earth from the gauge connected and then put an earth to the engine then the needle is still effected.
There seems ti be no other way if connecting an earth to the oil temp sender other than it earthing through the block?
Anyone got any suggestions?
Thanks
The problem seems to be a problem with the earthing? Right? The thing is is I leave the earth from the gauge connected and then put an earth to the engine then the needle is still effected.
There seems ti be no other way if connecting an earth to the oil temp sender other than it earthing through the block?
Anyone got any suggestions?
Thanks
#22
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I've had various problems with this and prosport gauges where they recomend earthing behind the gauge. Long story short the prosport ones are gone and the Autogauge replacements have two wire pre plugged cables no more earth problems and gauges that work.
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