Type R Upgrade Path
#1
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Type R Upgrade Path
I recently bought a V4 type r with a few mods here is a list that I know of so far.
Apexi frount mount intercooler
Apexi 3" straight through exhaust
ARC dry sump
HKS Mushroom filter
Exedy clutch fitted
Car is running a genuine 320bhp 298lb with RR printout from AI Autosport
VF24 turbo
Car has had one owner from import and never been mapped to my knowledge, and I know this will need to be done.
To make more power and mapping worthwhile, what would be a reasonable upgrade path to make 350-400bhp.
I dont intend to do track days just driveability for a fast road car.
Your advice is much appreciated
Apexi frount mount intercooler
Apexi 3" straight through exhaust
ARC dry sump
HKS Mushroom filter
Exedy clutch fitted
Car is running a genuine 320bhp 298lb with RR printout from AI Autosport
VF24 turbo
Car has had one owner from import and never been mapped to my knowledge, and I know this will need to be done.
To make more power and mapping worthwhile, what would be a reasonable upgrade path to make 350-400bhp.
I dont intend to do track days just driveability for a fast road car.
Your advice is much appreciated
#3
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Engine rebuild to a decent spec, 4k
Uprated clutch 500 quid
Uprated brakes 800 quid
Uprated gearbox, 3k
after market ECU, 1k+
Then look at suspension etc, its not cheap going from what you are at now to above 350bhp, and you wont gain much from 30bhp, especially if your car has never been mapped for the above mods, it could be causing issues you dont yet know about
Tony
Uprated clutch 500 quid
Uprated brakes 800 quid
Uprated gearbox, 3k
after market ECU, 1k+
Then look at suspension etc, its not cheap going from what you are at now to above 350bhp, and you wont gain much from 30bhp, especially if your car has never been mapped for the above mods, it could be causing issues you dont yet know about
Tony
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As said above, it really is a must to at least have your engines health checked, if not rebuilt as a matter of course.
These are old cars now, and it's unwise to throw sums of money at the supporting parts required to go 350bhp + when the condition of the engine is unknown to you at the outset.
I would suggest a full leak down test of your current unit before you embark on anything at all, done, preferably, by someone who isn't looking to sell you a rebuild/new engine. This could certainly be carried out by your mapper, or one suggestion is someone like Paul at Zen, who no longer carries out mechanical work.
This way, you get a totally unbiased opinion on your current state of play, and you will be more able to make an informed decision on the route you need to go, to get to where you want.
Good luck.
These are old cars now, and it's unwise to throw sums of money at the supporting parts required to go 350bhp + when the condition of the engine is unknown to you at the outset.
I would suggest a full leak down test of your current unit before you embark on anything at all, done, preferably, by someone who isn't looking to sell you a rebuild/new engine. This could certainly be carried out by your mapper, or one suggestion is someone like Paul at Zen, who no longer carries out mechanical work.
This way, you get a totally unbiased opinion on your current state of play, and you will be more able to make an informed decision on the route you need to go, to get to where you want.
Good luck.
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Thanks for the advice guys, tbh I dont know if its worth spending a shed load of money on. I had a look at the ecu today, all I can see are numbers
big digits 75
22611 AE360
A18-000 D66 then stamped serial no 8312
made by, UNSIA JTECS CORP
can this ecu be mapped or even health checked?
big digits 75
22611 AE360
A18-000 D66 then stamped serial no 8312
made by, UNSIA JTECS CORP
can this ecu be mapped or even health checked?
Last edited by Wild Thing; 10 June 2012 at 11:36 AM. Reason: Typo
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Simon is over this way soon, will stick the ecu details on scooby ireland thread and he will no doubt respond in time. Thanks for the heads up on V3 ecu
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You will need to forge your engine mate as Tony said and list of things you should do to get that kind of figures is bang on, I'm saying that because im doing the same thing and has costed me a small fortune, so stick with around 350bhp and save yourself some money, but if money isn't an issue go for it.
Remember that the torque is what will kill your gearbox not BHP as I'm running over 380ft/lb on a type r gearbox
Remember that the torque is what will kill your gearbox not BHP as I'm running over 380ft/lb on a type r gearbox
Last edited by Shaks-STI; 10 June 2012 at 10:15 PM.
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