Major ECU confusion.
#1
Major ECU confusion.
I've been having issues with the car late and so many people are saying so many different things to me I'm starting to suffer from too much information
So I better start from the top this might be a long story.
I bought a 1995 Import WRX Model GC8C48D Engine EJ20GDW4HE a few weeks ago and a few days later it started throwing up 2 check engine codes. O2 sensor and Idle speed. And developed hesitant acceleration
Took it to a garage where it was discovered that the car didn't even have an O2 sensor, so I booked it in for a decat downpipe and o2 sensor install. This didn't stop either code showing up or the hesitant acceleration so the ECU was checked and it turned out it was running a chipped Z4 ECU which I was told was incorrect for the car. It was changed for a U8 ECU and the check engine codes and hesitant acceleration stopped.
Fast forward 1 week and the check engine light is on again and the hesitant acceleration is back. And now I'm being told that the U8 is the wrong ECU by another person and I need to go back to my chipped Z4 or risk engine damage with my mods (440cc injectors, Turbo back Exhaust, Pod filter). And not to worry about the check engine codes as it's cause I'm running catless and have a BOV.
So what do I do? Who's giving the right information.
So I better start from the top this might be a long story.
I bought a 1995 Import WRX Model GC8C48D Engine EJ20GDW4HE a few weeks ago and a few days later it started throwing up 2 check engine codes. O2 sensor and Idle speed. And developed hesitant acceleration
Took it to a garage where it was discovered that the car didn't even have an O2 sensor, so I booked it in for a decat downpipe and o2 sensor install. This didn't stop either code showing up or the hesitant acceleration so the ECU was checked and it turned out it was running a chipped Z4 ECU which I was told was incorrect for the car. It was changed for a U8 ECU and the check engine codes and hesitant acceleration stopped.
Fast forward 1 week and the check engine light is on again and the hesitant acceleration is back. And now I'm being told that the U8 is the wrong ECU by another person and I need to go back to my chipped Z4 or risk engine damage with my mods (440cc injectors, Turbo back Exhaust, Pod filter). And not to worry about the check engine codes as it's cause I'm running catless and have a BOV.
So what do I do? Who's giving the right information.
#4
#6
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: devon
Posts: 962
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
a z4 is for standard 380 injectors and tdo5 turbo,i have this fitted to my 93 wrx.get hold of a standard z4 ecu and swap out the chipped one.
the z4 ecu had a better map on as was from a later classic but is good upgrade for early cars and ups power to 260.
the z4 ecu had a better map on as was from a later classic but is good upgrade for early cars and ups power to 260.
Trending Topics
#8
#10
Well I will try going back to my Z4 ECU and see what happens. I'm being told I don't need to worry about the check engine codes, they are a side effect from no cat and a BOV.
Hesitant acceleration is probably coil packs and nothing to do with the ECU.
Hesitant acceleration is probably coil packs and nothing to do with the ECU.
#11
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (31)
Which resistor has been cut in your ecu? The resistor you circled is not the J1 which is the one that has to be cut for the chip to work.
A bov and no cat will not throw a CEL light.....Why dont you try reading the codes?
Also, usually coil packs cause problems under high boost unless they are totally fooked.
A bov and no cat will not throw a CEL light.....Why dont you try reading the codes?
Also, usually coil packs cause problems under high boost unless they are totally fooked.
#13
Scooby Regular
and J1 resistor cut............. (not the same as yours)
#14
as above z4 ecu is for 380s. check the colour of yours. grey are 380s. if they are not 380s you are gonna need a remap hence poor running. if you dont wana run the chip no need to remove it just re connect the j1 resistor, or replace it with a switch on some wire to flick between maps.
#20
#26
#30