Car is 1996 USDM Legacy L non turbo
Engine is JDM EJ20GD1NY
ECU is 22611-ac720 a18-000 d28 (3 yellow plugs)

We wired the ECU per the pin-out here http://dialspace.dial.pipex.com/prod...ts/MY97ecu.pdf

We have got it to barely start, it needs WOT to start and then needs to be backed down slow to stay barely running. Playing with the Throttle only gets us 800 RPM max, but it still sounds like its running on 2 cylinders.

We're using the AA160F MAF (stock 96 Legacy) and all the sensors that came on the the JDM EJ20GD1NY engine.

we've ohmed out the coil pack and it seems good (at least not shorted or open, I think we were at 19Kohms on both coils. Not sure what it should be, but they were both the same.

we are using the stock Legacy Ignitor (and tried swapping with the EJ20, which is the same p/n). It gets instantly hot and will burn you if you touch the mounting bolts. not sure if this is right or not

We have a front mount intercooler installed with air filter and all ducting. There is no exhaust on it yet past the flange pipe bolted to the back of the turbo
We have verified spark on all plugs.

Questions:
1. Do we have the right ECU to work with this engine (they were bought from different places)
2. Do we have the right ignitor and should it get too hot to touch?
3. Is there any special wiring required of the coil or ignitor circuits that is not in the pinout above?
4. Is the MAF we have compatible with the JDM computer?
5. Are there any sensors we should not have hooked up or hooked up differently than the above pinout? Thanks in advance for all your help.

 

Update: We have intermittent spark on the plug wires when connected and trying to run.

We tested spark at each plug wire end wire using the screwdriver to ground method, but apparently were reading the waste spark as spark and thought we had spark on all 4, when in fact it was only 2.

With a timing light on each wire just to read induction if it's firing, we get a flashing light on 2 and 4 only, but not 1 and 3. At first we had it on 1&3 only, but after pulling the spark plugs and drying them off (fuel) it switched to 2&4. Not sure if it's coincidental or had something to do with the resistence change of 1&3 and fouling again.

The ignitor gets too hot to touch within about 10 seconds of having power (key on or cranking, doesn't matter). Is this causing an "open" condition inside it?
should it get this hot?

We have checked continuity each ignitor wire to the computer from the plug end and that seems good. The outputs check out from the ignitor to the coil plug as well. Would the USDM test procedures hold true for the JDM ECU, ignitor, and coil? thoughts?

 

Update as of last night:

We had a bad ground (ignition) inside the harness on the car side, that was allowing 11VDC to the ignitor, not the max 3.4VDC. That is fixed. The ignitor is cool to the touch now (imagine that).

Funny thing is car still (barely) runs the same, hard to start (sometimes will start at idle, sometimes needs WOT, but nothing really in between will start it).

Once it's running - it is running on 2 cylinders, but it varies which 2. We either get the right side or the left side (and occasionally one other cylinder, totally random) to blink the timing light, but can never get all 4 to fire. Since it's the right or left side, It tells me (correct me if I'm wrong) the ignitor is firing both signals 1&2 (front coil) and 3&4 (rear coil). This leads me to think the coil is bad as the signal is "getting in" but not "getting out". Whats weird is that is the same end of both coils, not both ends of the same coil.

Coil is a Diamond F-569 and ohms out at .8 across both pins 1&2 and pins 2&3.
The coils ohm across at 20.4K and 20.2K.
some searching we've found is that the .8 is barely acceptable and others have bought brand new coils at .89 and they work fine. The coil resistance is within the specs I found of 17.3K to 23.4K.

I don not have an LED testlight to check for pulse on both ignitor feeds, but I think they are fine as both coils are firing.

Cam and Crank sensors both ohm out at 2.154 and increase as they are moved towards my metal table top. I have not found the specs, since both sensors read and act exactly the same to 3 decimal places, I'm ASSuming they are both good.

When we swap the cam and crank signal terminals, the car wants to backfire through the intake, so I think we have those right.

any thoughts or input from this point?

 

So today we still have the same problem, spark on only one side of the coil pack. not one coil, half of each coil on the same side of the engine.

We swapped out the coil pack with a new one, and got the same results. We swapped the plug wires from left to right and the spark goes with them.

We ohmed out the wires and the 1&3 wires (original location) are 10.2K 7.6K respectively.
2&4 are 10.2K and 13.8K

The 1&3 wires are the ones that spark, regardless of their position.

What should the resistance be on the wires, and should they all be the same?

 

We replaced the Plug Wires and the new ones ohm out at just over 1K, 10 times less resistance.

We still can't get it to run right and still think it's timing, Can anyone confirm that the Computer, MAF, and injectors will work 100% in this configuration? Some information we've found says the 1S ecu needs the orange MAF and yellow injectors, but others say it will run

 

A touch of schizophrenia, falcon?

 

schizophrenia was days ago

 

for those following (laughing) along at home, we got new information yesterday that we have a K motor, not an EJ20G like the front cover barcode states.

We also think we may have the Impreza Rally Edition Computer, which is mapped all wrong for our motor. It's looking for a bigger CAM, MAF, Ingectors, and Turbo...

We're making some calls and talking to some people to confirm these things, and find the proper ECU.

Guess the schizophrenia was warranted after all, just wish it was a week earlier and hope we can find a 3 plug ECU that will work to minimize any redoing of the wiring we've done.

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