Just bought a 2000 JDM wagon with low mileage, however at higher revs it crunches going from 3rd to 4th. Other gears all good and feels like a nice tight transmission.

What's the best way out of this without spending a lot. it's irritating the crap out of me and I've only done 80miles.


cheers for any advice.

 

Look after your new possession and don't rag it??

Unless you know it was done recently I'd try changing the gearbox oil, I'm sure someone will be along to tell you what to change it for.

 

You could start with an oil change. My mate has recently bought a type R and that was crunchy into 4th until we drained the oil and found the oil in there to be old and too thin, since then it hasn't crunched once

Just make sure you use the correct oil and some decent oil.

 

Mine used to crunch going into 4th, it went for about 4 years before going bang! I regularly changed the oil tho.

 

I used to have a similar problem with my 99 Classic.

The only thing which would work was Subaru gear oil. Anything else, no matter how "good", seriously crunched into fifth. https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...-5th-gear.html

 

here's hoping, thanks.

 

I cant see the gear oil making that much of a difference worth a shout tho. prob a new syncro or second hand box to be honest

 

Redline Lightweight Shockproof is a cheap way to ease the problem but it wont fix it. Equally Millers CRX is also good.

 

The thicker oil is worth a punt, contact oilman. Otherwise it is rebuild time

 

in case the oil change don't work, is it generally cheaper to rebuild or replace?

 

The best solution is either get the box fixed or learn to drive it to its best with its faults ie double clutch or engine rev match.

 

That's your opinion and, in some instances, may be true. However, as mentioned in the link using Subaru gear oil in mine made a massive difference compared to other varieties. It went from virtually impossible to change into 5th with crunching to no problems whatsoever no matter how fast the change was.

 

Yes it is my opinion but replacing the oil wont repair a worn syncro. What is this subaru gear oil personally have never heard of it. I use Millers fully synethic 75/90. As you say it worked for you so hope it works for davoid

 

Where do you get the subaru oil from? Phoned the dealer and they have never heard of it.

 

i wonder if subaru main dealers use castrol syntrax? now called castrol universal?

 

By Subaru oil I'm talking about the oil they use when they change the gearbox oil during a service or, in my case, just replacing new "good quality" oil which was seriously crunching.

I don't know what it is, but in my case, it was magic. If I recall correctly, it was about £45. Seems a lot but cheaper than reconditioning a gearbox.

 

I had a look around. I can't see Subaru branded gear oil anywhere in the UK. it's not crunched since but the oil's not gotten terribly hot since, and it was a fast change that i did.

From checking various major oil suppliers I'll give redline a try. There are a range of standards called API GL4, 5, 6, and possibly more. Millers suitable for 4 and 5, redline suitable for 6 as well. None of these oils are cheap though.

Will report back.

 

It's probably a generic semi synthetic ok for road use. You will need something thicker if running hot or for track use.

I had a crunch between 3 and 4 on my 6 speed box and had to face a big bill having a box overhaul where the synchos in 4th,5th and 6th were replaced with carbon coated ones.

Changing the oil will just mask the problem, ok for short term, not good if you are investing in long term ownership.

 

Apac just out of curiostiy how much was the syncro repair?

 

Has anyone tried contacting the service department of their local dealer and asking what they use when servicing?

For what it's worth, my dealer at the time was Cheam Motors (RIP)

 

My local dealer uses Castrol Syntrax.........

 

I've said it a few times before; the company that invents an oil that fixes worn synchro will make more money than Bill Gates.

All that happens in the " cures " above is that the problem is being masked. The general wear on the gear, synchro ring & hub is still happening and by the time you decide to do something - " cos it has come back again " the damage will be severe and all 3 parts will need changing. By way of example; 5th gear synchro hub which incorporates reverse synchro too has gone up to £434.00 + VAT Then you need gaskets and seals + labour and probably a gear too.

That is going to be a £1000.00 repair bill.

Think about that before burying your head in the sand guys.

David APi

 

how much is it to rebuild 6 speed gear synchros? as is common on the early 6 speeds?

 

In my case the problem is crunching on 3-4 fast change when oil hot following motorway run in a jdm MY2000. what's the bill for that likely to be?

If different oil resulted in no crunching, does that mean the wear rate is likely to be less?

 

Depends upon how badly it has been crunching and for how long. The last few done here; using the carbon coated synchro rings which fix it forever [ so far ], have come in at around £800.00 + VAT [ £960.00 inc ] for box alone. Add £300.00 + VAT [ £360.00 inc ] if we get the whole car.

Proper repairs with a warranty.

David

 

Two questions difficult to answer there.

If the wear on the hubs and gears and forks is substantial then it will add up. Worst case at the moment is an exchange unit from us with a warranty at £800.00 + VAT But with hubs costing £150.00 + VAT [ £180.00 inc ] and forks at almost £200.00 + VAT [ £240.00 inc ] Labour to strip and build at £260.00 + VAT [ £312.00 inc ] no matter what we put inside -1 part or several. A gasket set at £66.00 + VAT [ £79.20 inc ] It is easy to see how a repair can suddenly get expensive. Plus it needs to be taken out of the car whether you use a recon or a repair.

Used boxes may be no better than what you have now.

Only a strip will be accurate.

The oil will help for a while, but it only masks the problem, the car still has poor synchro you just cannot feel it so much.

If it is salvageable now at a sensible price, because it is only part worn, it makes sense. Hiding the problem behind ' good oil ' only means that when it comes to bits, it will have a lot more wear.

Stitch in time.

David

 

David

Not disagreeing with you as I can only relate to my experience indicated above.

To re-iterate, my crunching, when going into 5th, started with an oil change at the 60k service (non Subaru) and magically stopped when I had the next major dealer service at 90k. It was then that I related it to the oil change. As an aside, you had the car during this period for an engine rebuild owing to a failed big end.

It re-appeared when I had a service by a non Subaru dealer, although a Subaru specialist, using "good quality oil" at around 140k. I took the car back and they changed the oil to a "high quality oil", and it was worse - so bad it was almost impossible to get it into 5th without crunching no matter how gentle. I booked the car in shortly after to a local Subaru dealer to replace the oil and it stopped immediately, like flicking a switch, and I could change into 5th as fast as I liked. It stayed that way until I sold the car over 10k later.

If something was wearing in the gearbox, it lasted over 90k miles after first appearing with no apparent deterioration when the correct oil was being used.

All I was suggesting above was that it is surely worth a decent oil change initially to see if it makes a difference as opposed to having the car off the road whilst the gearbox was being re-built and a big bill at the end although I do understand that if there is a fundamental problem the bill could be bigger by leaving it. Perhaps I was lucky in that my bill in the end was an oil change.

 

Car cost 2300. 27000miles apparently, according to MOTs, pain in the ****. Did it again today, just having overtaken a car and so not thinking and a quick 3rd-4th.

I've bought RED LINE Synthetic Gear Oil 75W-90NS GL5 (non Limited Slip) from Opie. I didn't get the Shockproof because it has friction modifiers and my aim is to allow synchros to come to the same speed more quickly, which is what the NS version is supposed to help achieve.

I'll post the results, and thanks for the help.

 

lovely ride on A701 (Tweed valley) spoiled only by gearbox. Oil change did no good at all. But, as I say, car only cost £2300 so a £1000 repairis not really an option.

What gearboxes fit into a MY00 jdm wagon? Any of the newage ones where they fixed the weak synchro up?

What about MY97 boxes? The one in the car i just sold had no problems at all after 105000miles.