MR2Mk1

iTrader: (1)

Just wadering what performance modifications can i do fairly cheaply to my UK2000 turbo wagon without having re-mapped since the remap will cost £660 since its not been done before to the ecu so cant really afford it. I already have a Prodrive backbox and center de-cat fitted and Prodrive Bilstein suspension fitted.

Shaks-STI

iTrader: (7)

Not much that i can think of, have you thought about suspension upgrade? Thats if you haven't done yet.

MR2Mk1

iTrader: (1)

I have the Prodrive Bilstein suspension fitted since the previouse owner had the car lowerd 400mm making near imposible over speed ramps. It was cheaper to fit 2nd hand Prodrive Bilstein suspension than buy new normal hight springs.

Markfey

iTrader: (7)

How about a panel air filter, headers, magnecor leads, light weight pullys etc

MR2Mk1

iTrader: (1)

Recently had new pullys with the Cam belt change at 120k service so dont want change those yet.

What are headers?

I presume if i fit a K&N pannel filter it means i dont have to have to put up with induction scoops and hoses ect..

Would it be worth change the front discs for vented and Redstuff pads as i have for the rear when they needed changing?

Markfey

iTrader: (7)

Brakes.... I spoke with bob at Aztec performance. I went for new fast road kevlar dics and pad and braided hoses. The difference was fantastic. I don't track my car so they were more than enough for me. Godspeed brakes also come highly recommended who are also on here.

Headers, i bought RCM as there are so many people complaining about other companies out there making ones that don't fit properly and crack. CP autos in Bristol are doing them cheap at the moment.

As for the panel filter, K&N seems to be the chosen choice of most. Just pop of the cover, pull out the old and replace with the new.

Shaks-STI

iTrader: (7)

Why headers ( exhaust manifold)? If you fit tubular headers will slow the spool down.

OE headers are good for 350bhp, i would not fit tubular headers under 400bhp.

Shaks-STI

iTrader: (7)

Brakes you can also speak to GODSPEED brakes

Markfey

iTrader: (7)

I mentioned GODSPEED. I know what you are saying about the headers however i had the RCM ones fitted and it made a big difference.

Tidgy

mark when did you upgrade them?

how they lasting? or too soon to tell?

Markfey

iTrader: (7)

Upgrade what? Sorry

Tidgy

brakes

Markfey

iTrader: (7)

Probably about 18 months ago now. I also replaced all the brake fluid. I've probably done well over 15k miles and they're great.

I obviously wanted, like most a nice set of AP's but i upgraded from standard pads that were probably put on the car from new.

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

Thanks for the recommendation Mark and glad you are enjoying the brakes.

For the OP:

I would recommend breaking the possible mods into categories:

Performance

Check ECU type - change to AE800/AE801 if you are running a AE802 (should cost you under £100)
Manual Boost controller (£25-50)
Knock detection (KS3 or Knocklink)
Samco intercooler pipe

Suspension

Drop links
Anti lift kit
Geo

Brakes

Decent discs and pads.

L.J.F

iTrader: (31)

Buy a ecu with ecutek already installed and have it tweaked to your car at a later date when you can afford it. The first remap is without doubt the best mod to have

MrNoisy

iTrader: (28)

+1.
The car's ECU will cope with the centre decat you've put on ok, but I wouldn't go changing headers, turbo, intercooler or up pipe etc without getting a remap.

You can change the fuel pump without requiring one however. Walbro 255 or HRC equivalent is fine, and the suggestion of a decent panel filter like Green or K&N is a good one.

TBH one of the best mods I would recommend you do that nobody has put forward yet would be upgrade your rear ARB to a 24mm item and uprate the droplinks too. You'll reduce the understeer hugely and the car will turn in and corner better.

Brakes-wise braided hoses, decent fluid and pads will do you well.
Disks on the standard 4 pots will matter more than the pads you choose as the calipers tend to overheat.

I used to be able to cook my discs in 2-3 hard stops on my old newage bug WRX, which was rather frightening! K-Sports or AP's FTW

legacy_gtb

iTrader: (3)

Save your money on engine mods and spend it on brakes and tyres! Then chassis! Then once the rest deserves it you can think about the engine!

MrNoisy

iTrader: (28)

More good advice. No point having 350bhp if you're rolling on Kumho's and can't stop

MR2Mk1

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for advice folks think i'll get some braided brake lines and EBC Redstuff pads then a K&N pannel filter but wont change front discs untill they are more worn out.
Where is the cheapest place to buy kit like that?

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

We can supply HEL Braided Lines and Kevlar pads (better than Redstuff imho). Will PM you a price

MrNoisy

iTrader: (28)

Redstuff pads aren't suitable for stopping Imprezas IMHO - it's fine if your car is an 1.6 Astra or a Focus, but not a 2.0 turbo car.
A mate had them on his WRX running 300bhp and they terrified him.
I'd advise you to look at Yellowstuff at a minimum, and would also agree with Bob's comments re Redstuff vs his own Kevlar pads, which I've also run in the past.
In fact, I'd say Bob's Kevlars were probably as good as if not better than the Yellow Stuffs I had on my old 4 pots.

I would recommend EBC Blue stuff and I hear orange stuff are even better although not used those myself. I run blue stuff on my K-Sport / Brembo setup now and they are pretty good.

I cannot stress enough - brakes on an Impreza are the one area where you should look to spend not skimp.
If you change the lines you'll need decent fluid too, but if you're buying red stuff pads you may as well not bother with the lines and uprated fluid as the pad compound will overheat way before the fluid does!

MR2Mk1

iTrader: (1)

Well have bought new front discs & pads & braided hoses also enough redline shockproof transmission oil to hopfully sort the clunky gearbox. Out of interest what is the best type of brake fluid to use since may as well upgrade that but keep getting told different things on waht DOT number i should use?

MrNoisy

iTrader: (28)

Shockproof (AKA Smurfs Blood(!)) is spot on for gearbox, as long as gearbox isn't knackered should work great.

Hope you went for decent pads in the end too seeing you evidently didn't cut corners on gearbox oil!

Brake fluid - standard fluid uses DOT4. You can buy decent DOT4 fluid, or go for a DOT 5.1. I run Motul 5.1 fluid on mine, and have no complaints, BUT I've never tracked the car.
The best person to speak to is Alyn @ AS Performance.

MR2Mk1

iTrader: (1)

I'm getting the disc, ceramic pads and lines from Aztec Performance. Just discoverd i have a unopened 1L bottle of Halfords 5.1 DOT in the cupboard will that be enough fluid or good enough for upgrade fluid?

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

1 Litre is usually enough if you are familiar with doing a fluid change.

I don't know the spec's of the Halfords fluid, it may work for you. Compare the boiling temps to a performance fluid: http://www.superhids.co.uk/brakes/br...id-500ml-.html

Your order has dispatched

MR2Mk1

iTrader: (1)

Received my discs, pads and lines this morning.
Regards brake fluid the Halfords 5.1 is Boiling points: typical dry 269 deg.c.,typical wet 187 deg.c. So slightly lower than the fancy race stuff but I don’t do track days and only use the car as my everyday drive when not commuting to work on the bike. So hopefully it should be ok.

MR2Mk1

iTrader: (1)

Do I need new anti sequel shims for the new pad or can I reuse the old ones?

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

If the old ones are metal you should be okay to clean them up and re-use. If they are stick on ones on the back of the pads you can't re-use those.

Plenty in stock if needed

MrNoisy

iTrader: (28)

LOL - I have stick on ones on the back of my EBC blue stuffs and they squeal - rubbish!
Shims are going back in as soon as the pads are worn down enough

MR2Mk1

iTrader: (1)

Well the brake upgrade was done just need to work out what pannel filter next since always used K&N in the past on my cars but been told not great for Classic MAF sensor so what Pannel filters would work best. Last few big bills i've had where cooling problems. 1st the top hose split covering the engine in coolant then the raditor fell apart from being too rusty then another hose went then to top it off the Drain plug in the NEW radiator was faulty which splits and flew off covering the engine in hot coolant for the 4th time so now the car is back on track although with a rather smelly engine time for a new Air filter.