I own a version 3 sti wagon for 1 week now.
What makes me wonder is that its running around 1.35 bar and sometimes 1.5bar. peak is 1.58bar
At 1.5+ it cuts out.
Car was advertised stock and looks stock.
Just uppipe und catback.
The increased boost has to come from somewhere.
Does my ecu look standard? What are these green connectors good for?
Regards

 

Yes looks standard wont know until you remove the cover. Are you still letting it boost that high?

I reckon a dodgey boost control solenoid

 

Yes, very probably standard - the blue sticker suggests it isn't an aftermarket ECU, so as long as there is no daughterboard etc. the ECU would be standard.

Most likely a fault with the boost control system as Baz82 suggests, maybe knackered solenoid, or split pipe to the wastegate actuator.

(PS. Baz, how's the leggy gbox holding up?)

 

Lets say sth. Is wrong with the boost pipes or solenoid....
Why doesnt it cut out at 1.1 bar?
Regards

 

Boost gauge not reading correct prehaps?

As in not accurate

 

Why would you expect it to cut out at 1.1bar? Over boost fuel cut on the STi is 1.35 bar boost at sea level.

Although it could be that you have a leak somewhere in the pipe to the MAP sensor which is causing a slight under-read. I have seen this before cause erratic boost conditions and it might explain the fuel cut behaviour. But as legacySTi notes, I wouldn't automatically assume that your boost gauge is accurate, either. And to further add to the confusion, the boost gauge is often plumbed in on the MAP sensor hose (although this itself is probably one of the most common causes of leak...)

 

I think the original poster needs to book the car in with a specialist to have a look rather than wasting time looking at things that are clearly not the cause of the problem. Could be any aspect of the boost control system hard to know without being near the car.

Maybe have a read through this , may help before you have to give it to a subaru garage/specialist
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...tRelatedIssues



(PS.Gearbox Still going great mate, after a trip to the Nurburgring in September and a Track day here in Ireland in October)

 

Before you go any further look inside the ecu and post a picture?

 

 

have to "up" this

cleaned the solenoid and pipes weeks ago and everything is as it should.

peak is around 1.3-1.5 then drops and holds about 1,15


i now want to remove the limiter and maybe add a bit of power.

i do have a zerosports 75 ecu laying around from a version 4 sti.

can i use this?

version 4 uses vf24 turbo. my version 3 is vf23.... big difference or no prob?
i think the injecors are the same yellow ones.
what should i expect from the zerosports ecu? is it more powerful?

there is also a 6s zerosports ecu for sale. should i take this one?
https://www.scoobynet.com/full-cars-...-in-white.html

 

anyone?

 

Anyone pls..
6s and 75 ecu interchangable?

 

zerosports ecu , normal runs high RON fuel and very agresive ignition.
Not a good idea in the UK. If you plan on getting more out of it then a mapable ECU is the way ahead.

 

I live in germany and use 102ron aral ultimate anyway.
I replace the engine for a gdb 2002 engine in winter so a esl map for this car isnt worth it.
The most important thing is to remove the 180k limiter.
Power wise its enough for daily use

 

probably just boosting higher due to exhaust mods and different engine.

you could lower it by removing the small metal pill in the pipe work at the turbo (compressor cover to T piece) to stop it overboosting and hitting the boost cut and reduce the chance of damage.

Looks like a standard ecu, assuming no daughterboard inside it, but none of the usual signs it has been tampered with.

Simon

 

Hi simon.
Thats all clear for weeks now.
Cleaned out the solenoid and pipes now everything is fine.

My new question is now if i can use a zerosports 75(version 4 sti) ecu
In my verstion 3 (6s). Without damage anything.

Pls read the last 5 posts again would be very helpful

Regards

 

the zerosports is as said usually very aggressive timing wise and usually no boost cut.

Best to stick with original or get it mapped.

 

And will the 75 ecu fit?
Or better not.
I have 102ron so the timing should be no prob

 

7S should work fine but not sure on what the map differences are