The above results are of a td06 sl2 20g (purchased by me a few years ago as a HS380) turbo on my Tegsport built forged 2.5 engine.
The run was on straight Vpower and the plan is now to also get a 20% methanol map completed soon.

The mapping was done on the superb new Simtek2 by Steve Simpson. I have entrusted the mapping of my car to Steve for several years now, having had Gems, Simtek/Alcatek all mapped by Steve in the past on this car running in various specs.

I'd like to just give everyone a very brief history of how I got to this point, and also try to convey just how much help and work Steve has done for me....

I have been through quite a journey, my previous engine to this one was very badly built by a tuner of huge reputation on this forum, and for me, 2 years of to an fro would follow as the tuner denied completely that there was anything wrong with the engine build whilst Steve did his absolute upmost to coax some respectable figures from it over many dyno sessions. And then, when this eventually proved to be an impossible cause, Steve worked hard in pinpointing all the issues so as to arm me with the facts to tackle the tuner with, so much of this work Steve did for me Foc and I really can't thank him enough or do his work justice here.
The final call on this engine came via a full long engine strip by Teg, requested by Steve as a favour, because of the original builders reluctance to do so himselfdespite my constant requests. From the strip it was very evident that this engine was a boat anchor and there was now a need to build again, and build it properly. Tegsport agreed to do the work for me, and after discussion as to what could be salvaged from the mess, a 2.5 was decided upon, built to a very good spec with a few tricks from Stuart Newby of tegsport to make the most of what we had. When the new build was complete the engine got run in on Steves dyno then mapped on its Simtek2, fitted as part of the new build, and that's where we're at with the graph shown.
As said, I will soon take my car back to Steve to do the Meth map, and it will also have a change to 70mm pipework (previously 50mm) to see if we can lessen the drop in boost at higher rpm, seen in that tail off in torque on the graph....Of course it could just be that wheezy old 20g being a bit lazy

Top work Steve Simpson and the boys at Tegsport

 

heres the revised 70mm pipework....and an excuse for some piccys

 

Nice figures What's it drive like on the road?

 

Very impressive torque figure, well done mate

What's the full spec?

Torque drops off quite dramatically after 4500?

 

It seems like the compressor side of the turbo can only supply about 415hp worth of air (hence why the power is constant), so the torque will drop off as revs rise as a consequence of this (power is torque * rpm * some constant).

 

Savage, when you open up the taps....effortless and smooth when you don't

 

Thanks, I'm extremely pleased with the results Steve and Teg have helped me acheive so far.

Car V5 Type R
New 2.5 block
Nitrided crank
Competion main and big end bearings
Omega pistons
Manley rods (carried over from previous engine)
Cosworth steel head gaskets 1.1mm
Tegsport high pressure oil pump
V5 type R high lift cam set
RCM tubular headers inc. new gaskets exhaust wrap
Simtek2 Plus with Anti lag/launch enabled

Taken from my previous spec...

Ported V5 type R heads
TD06 sl2 20g turbo (clocked to allow shorter custom fmic pipework)
740cc fuel injectors
Full lateral 3" exhaust system
Hybrid fmic (flipped to shorten pipe runs)
Fuel lab fuel regulator with guage
Walbro pump
Forge dump valve
Engine breather system vented to atmosphere

Battery and washer bottle relocated to the boot, and fuel filter to the bulkhead to allow custom fmic pipework to pass beneath the headlights

Think thats everything

I think the answer to your last question may very well be in Henriks last post, but we're hoping theres something to be gained from the larger pipework as it's also likely the previous 50mm pipework could of been causing a degree of back pressure to the compressor. Steve will know instantly, when he looks at the AFRs next time, if they're leaner this time around then the new pipework has given us more air to which he can then add more fuel and....well, I think you know the rest.
I'll update the outcome on this thread in any case, and also how it does with meth.

 

I love black Type R's, so rare. Nice spec more pics

 

Thanks, I'll dig a few more piccys out for you shortly .

 

Very nice - good to see figures like that from a legendary HS 20g - although your spec completely supports it.

 

Thanks, and I agree with you, old skool still rocks; but i think that these engines at this level are more than simply a sum of their parts.
My first engine build had an excellent parts spec. and certainly would of been capable of close to what we have here had the build been executed correctly, and given all the ancillaries were carried over to this build then the difference imo
seems to be the people.
A lot offering their services promise much whilst your wallets open, buts it's only the few that are capable and committed enough to deliver on those promises.
And unfortunately, sometimes it takes a harsh lesson to learn this.

 

As promised....







I got the chance, while Teg were doing the engine build, to bring the car back home and set about removing all front suspension, hubs, subframe, steering rack and gearbox then painted or powder coated everything aswell as spraying the engine bay and bonnet underside...

 

Ultra clean and very nice

 

lovely car and spec! a credit to you fella. do i see an omp dished steering wheel in there? ive just bought one for my wagon, did u have to mod the boss in any way? the guy i bought mine from said i might have to mod it a bit to get the horn push on? any info would be great thanks.

 

I'd love to know who first built your engine

 

Thanks Martyn, that's high praise from someone that helps to produce the quality builds that come out of Engine Tuner.

 

Thanks for your kind comments, yep that's a OMP steering wheel you see. Providing you have the right boss to start with, you should just need to find an earth for the horn button. I simply put a nut and bolt through one of the legs inside the boss, and put a connector onto that, works a treat.