Right guys, i'm looking for some advice from the engine builders among you.

I've recently rebuilt built my engine in my track/sprint classic Scooby and im looking for advice on running it in.

My problem lies with that the car isn't road legal (yet) but I want to get some miles on it before getting it mapped.
I'm just using my work yard to give it some varying load (light to med) (no boost) and have managed to get 30 miles on it so far, quite tricky in a yard 100 yards long. .

Everything is looking good with no leaks, rattles or problems that I can see.
Would it be to soon to get it on the rollers and mapped??

I'm thinking a 2 map setting would be good (low boost, high boost) not sure if this would be possible on my gems ecu or not?

At least then I could continue running in or actually using the car on the low boost setting for a while.

I've heard conflicting advice on running in procedures and seen varying results with friends cars and works vehicles.
One of my friends who had his engine built my a well known tuner, followed the tuners running in procedure to the tee, very gently for 1st (500 miles) etc,etc. But has ended up with a engine that smokes slightly on the over run. My friend thinks that the bores could be slightly glazed due to being too gentle with it and has advised me to load my engine (within reason) from early in its life to make sure everything beds in properly.

I've had experience with engines at work and as a general rule of thumb if you want the engine to make good power then work them quite hard from new (again within reason) I don't know if the same applies with Subaru's.

If anyone can offer me advice or experience on the matter it would be appreciated.

Many thanks Tim.

 

Maybe you could speak to a rolling road operator about doing running on miles on the rollers?

 

This could be a long post. There are so many opinions.

 

just recently posted regarding this myself
like stated lots of radically different views and ideas on the subject . im in the get 500 miles on it with varying loads ,drop cheap oil, then smash its head in camp

worked for me in past so sticking to it lol

 

I did roughly the same procedure on my forged 2.5, that was 40k ago still perfect.

Other people/tuners/mappers will have their own way of doing it.

 

The experts recommend quite varying running in methods. Most common is mineral oil and steady (sub 3.5k for 500 miles) then gradually pick it up to 4.5 - 5k by 1000 miles, then oil change to synthetic and gradually increase the pace over the next 500 miles. One of our top mappers believes in running in for about 50 miles then letting it rip!

 

Thanks for the reply's guy's. Like you say there is alot of different views on this subject, from my own experience i'm in the camp of making a engine work from day one, not bouncing it off the red line but good solid work, varying loads etc.

I'm currently using millers running in oil and then just before mapping she can have the proper full fat millers.

Just wondered how soon i can get her mapped properly? As im a little bit worried about putting it on the rollers and giving it full beans after only 30 miles-ish.

I'm sure anyone who has witnessed their car sat on the rollers being mapped has had a few butterflies in their stomach as it approches the redline!!

Whats the crack with new or rebuilt engines in motorsport? Are they run in? I'm sure in most cases they wouldnt have the time to mess around with 1000's of miles before hard use.

I understand that a motorsport engine doesnt have the lifespan of a stock motor but i'm not expecting mine to either.

Thanks again for your input. Tim.

 

Yours wants running on a dyno, check fuelling etc, put some running time into on the dyno, then oil change, then mapped & run full power.
On motorsport engine builds there built with the running clearences built in to suit, there not needed to do 50,000 + miles or so, on F1 builds they were run for 40mins at varying loads, then straight into full power runs, no mineral oil ****, thats for Morris Oxfords, we have moved on with bearing material & pistons / rings.

 

That sounds like sensible advice, although going to the dyno (4hour round trip) twice will be a pain in the ***.

I suppose I could take some tools with me and drop the oil there to save the extra trip but I'd need to take oil cooler and lines off to drain properly which is a fiddle.

How much running time on the dyno would you suggest before the oil change or is it best left to the mappers discretion??

Many thanks Tim.

 

Don't do a second visit, most dyno operaters will accomadate a oil change break, time it so its done through a lunch break.
Running will have to be gauged on each application, experience & feel will tell its loosening up, as well as oil temps etc, usually i would say an hour to 2 hours of various running in loads will be fine.

 

Brilliant advice m8, thanks very much for your help.
I'll get in contact with the mapper this week and see if I can get some dyno time booked in.
Fingers crossed she holds up!!
Cheers Tim.