and on initial inspection all looks well!

centre thrust crank which is a bit annoying as i thought this one may have been a rear thrust but anyhow...

not sure what to do now...stick a set of mains and big ends in and maybe rings and give it death or do i put some forged internals in?

or i think my other engine maybe rear thrust as it supposedly camne from a version 6 so i dont know whether or not to wait and see whats inside that...

i just want a good strong engine though for the track...i dont have massive power and im not aiming for it...350-400 would be nice and im sure standard internals will be ok for this wont they?

crank looks excellent but il get it polished and iv been advised on acl duraglides as opposed to acl race as the crank is not brand new.

im maybe thinking a new oil pump to just for piece of mind and iv already got brand new cambelt kit and water pump and headgaskets etc so im thinking just throw them on....

what do you all think or what can you recommend now that its in this state?

cheers from dave

 

There are 2 ways to do this, cheap and hope or spend a bit and make sure its going to do what you want without going bang. As an engine builder and parts supplier you know what i'm going to say, you have done the hard work and if you can afford to, forge it. You really need to get the crank and bores properly measured though, a 'looks ok' measurment may result in more headaches.
Pm me if you need anything, H beam rods and Forged pistons kits at £750 at the moment :-)

 

Iv ordered mains and big ends uprated oil pump and all the bottom end seals

The bloke who does my head skims etc is go na check it over and i might get him to polish the crank iv measured the crank main journels and they are measuring 60mm so happy with that il either lend some bore guages or like i say get my engineer to measure them to see what condition the bores are in

However there is no scoring on the bores and the honing cross hatch marks are visible all over so id say it is ok

What rods and pistons are they you have for sale and do i get bearings with them or ia it literally the rods pistons and rings?

Block and crank is perfectly serviceable id say...it is going to get battered round a track though and inevitable it will ping one day no matter what i do

 

Replace the crank for what they cost, new is always better than "used/polished/ground" and as said, dont do it cheap as it causes a headache, do it once, do it right.

Tony

 

Il buy a crank rods and pistons for my other engine or find a rear thrust block and stroke it/go all out...i do t want to go mad on this engine as i dont want my 5 speed dccd box to go pop...il try ad find a new age then with a popped engine to throw my fresh built stroker into and have a gearbox and exu that is very capable! If i throw money at what is my track car it will end up costing thousands when im happy to buy a thousand pound snot use it a few times then break it if you carch my drift

I just wanted to confirm that by putting shells and an oil pump in it will be reliable enough and that im not overlooking anything like last time when i fitted headgaskets and then the crank went 50 km's down te road

 

Rods are my own-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...e=STRK:MESE:IT
Pistons are Wossner or Mahle depending on what you need (size/compression)
No reason why you cant use your crank, yes new is better but as long as the journals are in spec it will be fine. It's the bearings (big end) that wear out and give the problems with these engines, what did the old shells look like?
Regards...................Andy

 

Iv only looked at the mains but il get the rods off tomorrow and look at the big ends to see if they have picked up and let you know

 

Number 4 big end has picked up...think il need a new crank anyway...anyone got dimensiosforreartrustcoversio?whatrods crank and pistons do i need to use and what happens with number 3 main on my crank do i run rear and centre thrust?

 

Is it a closed deck block? what power do you want to run? I don't think many people convert an open deck block to rear thrust as it's cheaper just to get a rear thrust block. A new center thrust crank is about £450 from me, discounted if you wanted rods/pistons as well. Most rear thrust conversions are done to fit a 2.5 crank, yes you should use a center thrust No. 3 and No. 5 bearing, ie you have to buy 2 sets of mains.

 

Better off spending the initial money on a newage block then aint i or is a 2.5 any good?

 

the crank may go again as it hasnt picked up that bad, im taking it to my engineer tomorrow to have a quick look at and measure up, if he says its no good then il be looking for a new age block i think

 

is it an ej205 im looking for that has the rear thrust crank? or more specifically how can i tell from the castings and that or is there no way?

cheers

 

Wms how much would it be for u to build a short block with these internals and fit my v3 heads?

 

If your bores are in spec then it may be more cost effective to put a new crank in your block (assuming you want to stay 2.0) I have a few rear thrust blocks here but all need a re-bore. Rear thrust blocks have 8 bolt holes for the gearbox mounting, center thrust are 4 bolt, thats the easy way to tell them apart.

 

I would rather go rear thrust for longevity and reliabity in future plus 2.1 is less expensive as i dont want to forge my bottom end when its neither cdb or rear theust

How much you want for a block? You got a serviceable crank?

 

If you want to go 2.1 you need a 2.5 crank (new only sti xdrilled/nitrided £450), and stroker pistons or stroker rods, I also have 2.0 sti cranks at the same price, if you let me know everything you want I'll work a good deal out for you.
Andy

 

To go 2.1 i need a rear thrust block though which i dont have...what are the actual advantages of 2.1 0r just building a fresh bottom end from atandard or forged parts? Like i said im not chasing massive power just want reliability however steel rods would be good for raising the rev limit

 

2.1 is a good way to go if you can afford to, they spool better, and give more torque and bhp compared to a 2.0. You will need a block, rebore, pistons, rods (+bearings) and crank as a minimum. I can supply all the above ready to assemble for £1500 delivered.

 

Can you pm me the price breakdown of all of that please as i may go ahead with it and what engineering work i will need to carry out or what you will have done...cheers