WHICH OIL FILTER
01 February 2013, 07:35 AM
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WHICH OIL FILTER
Hi guys. I have to change my oil and filter and I am split between one or a pattern filter. I have always bought pattern filters for previous cars with no probs.
My question is then, is there much, if any, difference between a pattern or one part, apart from price, has any research been done?
My car is an 03 Blob STI PPP with a rebuilt engine by API including uprated oil pump.
The oil I will be using will be millers cfs 5w/40.
My question is then, is there much, if any, difference between a pattern or one part, apart from price, has any research been done?
My car is an 03 Blob STI PPP with a rebuilt engine by API including uprated oil pump.
The oil I will be using will be millers cfs 5w/40.
01 February 2013, 09:24 AM
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If you can get hold of the "old" bigger blueprint (ADL) you won't go wrong, search ebay, Import Car Parts are selling them for about 8 quid delivered with a sump washer.
01 February 2013, 09:43 AM
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Been using Mahle filters and Vauxhall 10W40 semi for the past 80,000 odd miles. Now at 177,000 miles on original slappy engine, MY97 UK with DIY PPP.
It's gotta go bang soon
It's gotta go bang soon
01 February 2013, 09:45 AM
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RCM website, "Black is back". When subaru introduced the blue oil filter there were a lot of issues with people stating they just couldn't seem to tighten them up.
If you type it in to youtube there are a few people on there who have cut them open and show you the differences.
If you type it in to youtube there are a few people on there who have cut them open and show you the differences.
01 February 2013, 11:49 AM
#7
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Have used Blueprint myself for the past 2 oil change's, not had a problem
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2302690654...84.m1497.l2649
I used a Blueprint fuelfilter aswell
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2302690654...84.m1497.l2649
I used a Blueprint fuelfilter aswell
Last edited by Eros; 01 February 2013 at 11:50 AM.
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04 February 2013, 10:19 AM
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If you put anything but a genuine Subaru filter, ideally the black one, on an APi rebuilt engine you will VOID our warranty.
Sorry, but that's the way it is.
David
PS Don't use 5W anything in an APi engine start at 10W or 15W
Sorry, but that's the way it is.
David
PS Don't use 5W anything in an APi engine start at 10W or 15W
Last edited by APIDavid; 04 February 2013 at 10:20 AM.
04 February 2013, 09:03 PM
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05 February 2013, 09:30 AM
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It's been done a 1000 times before by better people than me BUT briefly:
We see as many if not more regular engines in here for rebuild than just about anyone in the UK, We have built data around engine failures that includes the following.
The car on a top mount was doing over 100 mph when the big ends went.
The car was running full boost on 97 octane unmapped when the big ends went.
The car was being driven hard with the fuel warning light on when the big ends went.
The car was being driven normally but had no oil in the sump when the big ends went.
The car had just had a service that involved engine flush, when the big ends went on the way home.
The car just had a service and they put in 0W ?? when the big ends went
The car just had a service and they put in 5W ?? when the big ends went
So any of the above given the right circumstances can and will break a Subaru engine. Most can be avoided by commonsense.
BUT our overriding view is that if you run on 0w or 5w in a Subaru Turbo you are risking an engine failure. Until you change the oil nothing can be done about it.
You don't have to run down the motorway at over 100 mph on a top mount.
You can run the car on 99 or 100 octane
You can keep fuel in the tank
You can keep oil in the sump
Don't use engine flush in a Subaru turbo
Use a brand name 10W or 15w Oil
Advice based on many years of experience, forget data and facts and "Ah but's "! This is what we see week in week out.
David
05 February 2013, 11:24 AM
#13
The engine flush question has been raised before.
The usual flush these days is something like Wynns or Comma which is added to the existing oil for a short while then all drained. Obviously, If the car is driven with this in then very light loads and for only a short distance to circulate the stuff.
I've used Wynns once, but with a rather **** procedure: Add to the existing oil after drawing off some oil through the dipstick tube using a suction pump. Run engine under light load for a couple of miles. Drain oil and re-fill with a semi-syn 10/40. Drive the car over the next week refraining from any 'performance' to absorb any remaining 'flush' Drain the oil and change filter (use this oil in the mower!) using the 'good stuff'
I certainly wouldn't dispute API's findings but it would be nice to know why the Subaru engine is considered so intolerant to such procedures even if carried out correctly?
JohnD
The usual flush these days is something like Wynns or Comma which is added to the existing oil for a short while then all drained. Obviously, If the car is driven with this in then very light loads and for only a short distance to circulate the stuff.
I've used Wynns once, but with a rather **** procedure: Add to the existing oil after drawing off some oil through the dipstick tube using a suction pump. Run engine under light load for a couple of miles. Drain oil and re-fill with a semi-syn 10/40. Drive the car over the next week refraining from any 'performance' to absorb any remaining 'flush' Drain the oil and change filter (use this oil in the mower!) using the 'good stuff'
I certainly wouldn't dispute API's findings but it would be nice to know why the Subaru engine is considered so intolerant to such procedures even if carried out correctly?
JohnD
05 February 2013, 11:52 AM
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If oil changes are carried routinely and regularly using a branded oil of the correct grade with quality filters and the car used sensibly (warmed up/down and no persistant nipping round the corner to get ****), why would a flush be considered necessary?
Years back used to do things like that but the quality of the oils and the engines have increased considerably since the days of the mark 3 Cortina etc
If you consider you Scoob engine (or any other modern engine for that matter) requires a flush, then it is probably goosed any way IMHO
Years back used to do things like that but the quality of the oils and the engines have increased considerably since the days of the mark 3 Cortina etc
If you consider you Scoob engine (or any other modern engine for that matter) requires a flush, then it is probably goosed any way IMHO
05 February 2013, 12:51 PM
#16
If oil changes are carried routinely and regularly using a branded oil of the correct grade with quality filters and the car used sensibly (warmed up/down and no persistant nipping round the corner to get ****), why would a flush be considered necessary?
Years back used to do things like that but the quality of the oils and the engines have increased considerably since the days of the mark 3 Cortina etc
I remember those days well and to be honest, rather earlier than that! Yes, oils and fuel have improved beyond recognition and certainly, flushing should not, under normal conditions, be necessary.
If you consider you Scoob engine (or any other modern engine for that matter) requires a flush, then it is probably goosed any way IMHO
It's not necessarily that it 'needs' it, it's just that it's available to be done, albeit with little real benefit. It says little for the integrity of the Impreza engine that it's at risk from a simple maintenance option if carried out sensibly, especially when you consider that oil companies such as Comma market the stuff?
Years back used to do things like that but the quality of the oils and the engines have increased considerably since the days of the mark 3 Cortina etc
I remember those days well and to be honest, rather earlier than that! Yes, oils and fuel have improved beyond recognition and certainly, flushing should not, under normal conditions, be necessary.
If you consider you Scoob engine (or any other modern engine for that matter) requires a flush, then it is probably goosed any way IMHO
It's not necessarily that it 'needs' it, it's just that it's available to be done, albeit with little real benefit. It says little for the integrity of the Impreza engine that it's at risk from a simple maintenance option if carried out sensibly, especially when you consider that oil companies such as Comma market the stuff?
05 February 2013, 01:13 PM
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Wasn't aware that the Scoob engine was considered at risk from flushing. Was just surprised that this was still considered a maintenance option on a modern engine that had been looked after.
Comma also manufacture Radseal. They manufacture it because they can sell it, not necessarily because they think it is a good idea.
Comma also manufacture Radseal. They manufacture it because they can sell it, not necessarily because they think it is a good idea.
05 February 2013, 10:13 PM
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It's been done a 1000 times before by better people than me BUT briefly:
We see as many if not more regular engines in here for rebuild than just about anyone in the UK, We have built data around engine failures that includes the following.
The car on a top mount was doing over 100 mph when the big ends went.
The car was running full boost on 97 octane unmapped when the big ends went.
The car was being driven hard with the fuel warning light on when the big ends went.
The car was being driven normally but had no oil in the sump when the big ends went.
The car had just had a service that involved engine flush, when the big ends went on the way home.
The car just had a service and they put in 0W ?? when the big ends went
The car just had a service and they put in 5W ?? when the big ends went
So any of the above given the right circumstances can and will break a Subaru engine. Most can be avoided by commonsense.
BUT our overriding view is that if you run on 0w or 5w in a Subaru Turbo you are risking an engine failure. Until you change the oil nothing can be done about it.
You don't have to run down the motorway at over 100 mph on a top mount.
You can run the car on 99 or 100 octane
You can keep fuel in the tank
You can keep oil in the sump
Don't use engine flush in a Subaru turbo
Use a brand name 10W or 15w Oil
Advice based on many years of experience, forget data and facts and "Ah but's "! This is what we see week in week out.
David
We see as many if not more regular engines in here for rebuild than just about anyone in the UK, We have built data around engine failures that includes the following.
The car on a top mount was doing over 100 mph when the big ends went.
The car was running full boost on 97 octane unmapped when the big ends went.
The car was being driven hard with the fuel warning light on when the big ends went.
The car was being driven normally but had no oil in the sump when the big ends went.
The car had just had a service that involved engine flush, when the big ends went on the way home.
The car just had a service and they put in 0W ?? when the big ends went
The car just had a service and they put in 5W ?? when the big ends went
So any of the above given the right circumstances can and will break a Subaru engine. Most can be avoided by commonsense.
BUT our overriding view is that if you run on 0w or 5w in a Subaru Turbo you are risking an engine failure. Until you change the oil nothing can be done about it.
You don't have to run down the motorway at over 100 mph on a top mount.
You can run the car on 99 or 100 octane
You can keep fuel in the tank
You can keep oil in the sump
Don't use engine flush in a Subaru turbo
Use a brand name 10W or 15w Oil
Advice based on many years of experience, forget data and facts and "Ah but's "! This is what we see week in week out.
David
06 February 2013, 03:39 PM
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If that's you Simon, you know why.................
If it's not, then it is based on our experience that for whatever reason, the flat four Subaru turbo wants to tear itself to bits on anything less than 10W.
We just fix 'em, we don't make 'em and we see the results - no matter how many facts and figures about esters and additives and all that you throw out there, of running on a thin oil in a Subaru turbo engine.
David
Dance ended, I've been here before.
If it's not, then it is based on our experience that for whatever reason, the flat four Subaru turbo wants to tear itself to bits on anything less than 10W.
We just fix 'em, we don't make 'em and we see the results - no matter how many facts and figures about esters and additives and all that you throw out there, of running on a thin oil in a Subaru turbo engine.
David
Dance ended, I've been here before.
06 February 2013, 03:52 PM
#23
Hi David
No, it's Tim, but I've seen your comments stating that before, I've just never seen a reason why. I just have no idea why an oil that is thicker when cold is going to benefit the engine. Subaru themselves recommend a 5w-30 for a lot of Imprezas.
Yes, I accept that a 10w-50 or 15w-50 is a better option for a modified car, or a 10w-40 can help quieten piston slap in an older car, but a 5w will be helping more with cold start protection, when a lot of wear occurs.
I've never been any good at accepting things without a reason. When you're saying that I'm wrong for about half to three quarters of my Subaru recommendations, I think it's only fair if you can give some reasoning.
Cheers
Tim
No, it's Tim, but I've seen your comments stating that before, I've just never seen a reason why. I just have no idea why an oil that is thicker when cold is going to benefit the engine. Subaru themselves recommend a 5w-30 for a lot of Imprezas.
Yes, I accept that a 10w-50 or 15w-50 is a better option for a modified car, or a 10w-40 can help quieten piston slap in an older car, but a 5w will be helping more with cold start protection, when a lot of wear occurs.
I've never been any good at accepting things without a reason. When you're saying that I'm wrong for about half to three quarters of my Subaru recommendations, I think it's only fair if you can give some reasoning.
Cheers
Tim
Last edited by oilman; 06 February 2013 at 04:10 PM.
06 February 2013, 05:15 PM
#24
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would never run a 0 or 5w30 oil in a Subaru full stop unless your in Scandanavia, etc........
new-age cars have slightly differing specs and we are happy to run 5w40 in more std versions BUT would not recomend in a classic car at all
similiar to David i have personally repaired and over-hauled an awful lot of Subaru engines and base it on "real world" experience not whats written in a book
Alyn
new-age cars have slightly differing specs and we are happy to run 5w40 in more std versions BUT would not recomend in a classic car at all
similiar to David i have personally repaired and over-hauled an awful lot of Subaru engines and base it on "real world" experience not whats written in a book
Alyn
