Cambelt problem
#1
Cambelt problem
I`m in the middle of replacing the cambelt on 2006 wrx. I`ve got the new belt on and all the marks on the crank and cam pulleys are in the right positions. The double marks between the cam pulleys line up. Before I put everything back together I cranked the engine by hand, clockwise about 90 degrees and it feels like there is some solid resistance. I don`t think its just compression, it feels too much. I would prefer to be 100% happy before I turn the key. Any ideas on what it could be?
#2
I`m in the middle of replacing the cambelt on 2006 wrx. I`ve got the new belt on and all the marks on the crank and cam pulleys are in the right positions. The double marks between the cam pulleys line up. Before I put everything back together I cranked the engine by hand, clockwise about 90 degrees and it feels like there is some solid resistance. I don`t think its just compression, it feels too much. I would prefer to be 100% happy before I turn the key. Any ideas on what it could be?
solid line should be at 12 oclock and the arrow bit 3oclock
#4
I`m in the middle of replacing the cambelt on 2006 wrx. I`ve got the new belt on and all the marks on the crank and cam pulleys are in the right positions. The double marks between the cam pulleys line up. Before I put everything back together I cranked the engine by hand, clockwise about 90 degrees and it feels like there is some solid resistance. I don`t think its just compression, it feels too much. I would prefer to be 100% happy before I turn the key. Any ideas on what it could be?
#5
If you have the cam pulleys set as you describe and the crank pulley set how rob84 has described then you will be ok. So turn the engine over by hand until the makes line up again and you're all set.
If all the marks line up on the cam pulleys and the crank pulley then it won't be 180 degrees out.
If all the marks line up on the cam pulleys and the crank pulley then it won't be 180 degrees out.
Trending Topics
#8
Hi
So as long as engine is timed correctly then there should not be a problem but it does sound like there is something wrong.
Confirm: Engine safe/timed position
Crank key way 6 oclock/cranksprocket mark at 12oclock.
All pulley marks lined up to pulleys and cambelt inner covers.
Cambelt lines line up with pulley marks.
When the belt was taken off the engine was not moved? Is your tensioner ok and you have removed the tensioner pin when you fitted the belt.
As above remove the plugs to help with turning over by hand and just to make sure you are in neutral.
Let us know.
Cheers
So as long as engine is timed correctly then there should not be a problem but it does sound like there is something wrong.
Confirm: Engine safe/timed position
Crank key way 6 oclock/cranksprocket mark at 12oclock.
All pulley marks lined up to pulleys and cambelt inner covers.
Cambelt lines line up with pulley marks.
When the belt was taken off the engine was not moved? Is your tensioner ok and you have removed the tensioner pin when you fitted the belt.
As above remove the plugs to help with turning over by hand and just to make sure you are in neutral.
Let us know.
Cheers
#9
I cranked the engine and lined up all the marks before I took the old belt off. When I released the old belt the cams on the right spun around, not sure how much as it was pretty quick. Crank sprocket mark is a 12 oclock. I turned the cam pulleys on the right with 10mm allen keys untill the double lines were facing each other. When I put the new belt on the lines on the belt wouldn`t line up with the marks on the pulleys even though all the marks on the pulleys lined up with each other and the marks on the inner covers. It looks like this except the lines on the belt don`t` match.
#10
If the lines in the belt didnt line up. Something is wrong. Id suggest removing belt and start fron scratch. Ensure the belt is the right way round as its directional and start again. Ive fitted loads and loads of various make belts and have never had one where the lines didnt match the pulleys
Last edited by Turbotits; 13 May 2013 at 05:35 PM.
#11
Theres your problem
The lines on the belt have to line up with all notches on cam pulleys and crank sprocket.
Anyhow if the position of engine is correct you can fit a belt without marks however in your case I would look at the belt and see whats wrong.
Match it up to your old belt and see whats going on.
All the best.
The lines on the belt have to line up with all notches on cam pulleys and crank sprocket.
Anyhow if the position of engine is correct you can fit a belt without marks however in your case I would look at the belt and see whats wrong.
Match it up to your old belt and see whats going on.
All the best.
#12
Thats what i`m doing at the moment. I`ve just noticed that the number of teeth vertically between the marks on the belt is different from one side to the other. Not like the diagram I posted above. It defies logic to me. So i`m going to start again. The bottom right pulley is being a barsteward at the moment so i`m having a tea break
#14
start crank sprocket & feed belt to lh in then to lh exh these are on cam so yes will be a bit fidely but pull the belt tight and it holds. Feed to toothed idler and keep going.
But get the right belt of course cause sounds like yours is suspect.
But get the right belt of course cause sounds like yours is suspect.
#15
Thats what I thought so I laid them on top of each other and they are the same. I`ve just lined up the marks on the belt with the marks on the pulleys and now the double lines that face each other dont match, in fact with the crank at 12 oclock the bottom right pulley is about 4 teeth out. I`ve put the belt on with the arrows just to the right of the crank pointing to the right so the engine turns clockwise as you face it. Is that correct?
#17
Dont forget you have the tensioner to go on which probably takes up the 4 teeth you concerned about. Concentrate in the marks on the belt. There will be slag between the crank and n/s top pulley until the tensioner is in
#19
Thanks for the numbers, maybe later if I start to feel even more frustrated. I`ve done SOHC belts and chains without problems but this ones doing my head. So this is the latest position.
The mark on the belt on the top left is one tooth out on the pulley. If I line it up with the pulley then it goes out of line with the cover and the double lines wont match. The double lines on the pulleys facing each other are lined up o.k. The Line on the crank is at 12 oclock. So basically all pulleys are where they should be. Two lines on the belt are o.k. (crank and top right pulley). Other belt lines are out. So even with the pulleys in line I still feel like somethings hitting when I crank the engine. I don think its just compression because that feels spongy, this is a solid stop.
The mark on the belt on the top left is one tooth out on the pulley. If I line it up with the pulley then it goes out of line with the cover and the double lines wont match. The double lines on the pulleys facing each other are lined up o.k. The Line on the crank is at 12 oclock. So basically all pulleys are where they should be. Two lines on the belt are o.k. (crank and top right pulley). Other belt lines are out. So even with the pulleys in line I still feel like somethings hitting when I crank the engine. I don think its just compression because that feels spongy, this is a solid stop.
#21
Call me as looking at pic you are timed wrong.
Dont fully go by pulley marks because due to certain reasons these can be slightly out, time the engine with the belt marks to the pulley lines and try that.
So place the lines off belt to the lines on the pulleys
Dont fully go by pulley marks because due to certain reasons these can be slightly out, time the engine with the belt marks to the pulley lines and try that.
So place the lines off belt to the lines on the pulleys
#22
Infact looking at it again maybe your not due to line would move the other side of the pulley line.
Hence if you want to pick my brain drop me a line, as you know if something is touching thats not good so stick with it.
Hence if you want to pick my brain drop me a line, as you know if something is touching thats not good so stick with it.
#23
Ok do not worry about the double lines on left pulleys.
As I stated above place belt on with the lines lined up to the lines on the pulleys, remove the tensioner pin and try turning by hand then?
If ok turn engine backwards and go past timed position, then turn clockwise to the timed position and have a look, most of time double lines off pulleys will line up 1side and other might be a little out.
Let me know.
As I stated above place belt on with the lines lined up to the lines on the pulleys, remove the tensioner pin and try turning by hand then?
If ok turn engine backwards and go past timed position, then turn clockwise to the timed position and have a look, most of time double lines off pulleys will line up 1side and other might be a little out.
Let me know.
#24
#25
1/ Take all spark plugs out.
2/ Line up all marks on the new belt with all marks on the cam and crank pulleys then pull the pin.
3/ Turn the engine over until the timing marks line up with the plastic covers and double marks face each other.
One other thing I do is before fitting the belt I take the small thinnest guide pulley wheel off to make it easier to slide the belt on and prevent belt damage. Get the belt on then fit guide pulley back on and pull the tensioner pin out. Simplest.
I don't do step 1/ but you need to now.
2/ Line up all marks on the new belt with all marks on the cam and crank pulleys then pull the pin.
3/ Turn the engine over until the timing marks line up with the plastic covers and double marks face each other.
One other thing I do is before fitting the belt I take the small thinnest guide pulley wheel off to make it easier to slide the belt on and prevent belt damage. Get the belt on then fit guide pulley back on and pull the tensioner pin out. Simplest.
I don't do step 1/ but you need to now.
#26
1/ Take all spark plugs out.
2/ Line up all marks on the new belt with all marks on the cam and crank pulleys then pull the pin.
3/ Turn the engine over until the timing marks line up with the plastic covers and double marks face each other.
One other thing I do is before fitting the belt I take the small thinnest guide pulley wheel off to make it easier to slide the belt on and prevent belt damage. Get the belt on then fit guide pulley back on and pull the tensioner pin out. Simplest.
I don't do step 1/ but you need to now.
2/ Line up all marks on the new belt with all marks on the cam and crank pulleys then pull the pin.
3/ Turn the engine over until the timing marks line up with the plastic covers and double marks face each other.
One other thing I do is before fitting the belt I take the small thinnest guide pulley wheel off to make it easier to slide the belt on and prevent belt damage. Get the belt on then fit guide pulley back on and pull the tensioner pin out. Simplest.
I don't do step 1/ but you need to now.
#27
Not being a know it all but do as I suggested and I am sure you will have sorted it.
Like I said sometimes pulley to peulley marks can be out a little 1 side, aslong as lines on belt line up to the pulley lines you are timed up.
Like I said sometimes pulley to peulley marks can be out a little 1 side, aslong as lines on belt line up to the pulley lines you are timed up.
#28
I just did my belt about 2 weeks ago and stumbled across the same issue with the belt marks being a biatch to line up. I don't know how your doing it but I did it with lower pulley (the red one on your pic, removed). It took me around 30 mins but eventually got all lines on the belt marked up correctly with a second pair of hands. To get the last pulley back on I cable tied the belt where the last pulley needs to go to the section of belt above. It was a small chew on but it was right in the end.
As others have said, make sure all the belt marks line up then you cant go wrong
As others have said, make sure all the belt marks line up then you cant go wrong
Last edited by stualex; 13 May 2013 at 11:40 PM.
#30
Could it be that you turned the cams on the right in the wrong direction?
I don't know if this would cause your issue but I have just changed the the belt and kit on mine and the cams moved. There is a guid on YouTube wrx timing belt change. It is a very good guide. The guy advises that the cams can only be turned in their respective direction or risk damage ...!(Top cam clock wise, bottom cam anti clockwise)
Someone will be along and correct me if I'm wrong!
I don't know if this would cause your issue but I have just changed the the belt and kit on mine and the cams moved. There is a guid on YouTube wrx timing belt change. It is a very good guide. The guy advises that the cams can only be turned in their respective direction or risk damage ...!(Top cam clock wise, bottom cam anti clockwise)
Someone will be along and correct me if I'm wrong!