Dccd question
#1
Dccd question
Hi. Iv just joined this forum . Got myself a v5 type r in champagne silver on Friday (first scooby) loving it. Bodywork has a few bubbles of rust but the engine and everything else is mechanically sound.
Got a question about the dccd. Is it always ment to be at the back or can you wind it forward 1 more so it's still in the green?
Also is it full on rear wheel drive when it's all way back? Cheers. Ash
Got a question about the dccd. Is it always ment to be at the back or can you wind it forward 1 more so it's still in the green?
Also is it full on rear wheel drive when it's all way back? Cheers. Ash
#2
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From: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
Welcome
Well the dccd is meant to be in the green as indicated on the dash for every day driving, it doesn't make the car rwd, that is a general misconception, what it does is distribute the torque between the front and rear differentials, if you look in the General Technical area there is an Archive and information in there about the dccd and its operation (plus do's and dont's).
Bodywork, you need to get it sorted like yesterday, a few blisters (I take it these are on the rear arches?) normally means that you will need a couple of inches of paint doing and the inner skin (twin skinned on the rear on classics) has probably been eaten away much worse than you can see.
You also need to check when the cambelt and a major service was carried out, cambelts are every 3 years/45k whichever comes first, but you are best off having a major service (not cheap but worth it) then it will leave you some money for the shell vpower/Tesco 99 fuel you need to run the car on.
Tony
Well the dccd is meant to be in the green as indicated on the dash for every day driving, it doesn't make the car rwd, that is a general misconception, what it does is distribute the torque between the front and rear differentials, if you look in the General Technical area there is an Archive and information in there about the dccd and its operation (plus do's and dont's).
Bodywork, you need to get it sorted like yesterday, a few blisters (I take it these are on the rear arches?) normally means that you will need a couple of inches of paint doing and the inner skin (twin skinned on the rear on classics) has probably been eaten away much worse than you can see.
You also need to check when the cambelt and a major service was carried out, cambelts are every 3 years/45k whichever comes first, but you are best off having a major service (not cheap but worth it) then it will leave you some money for the shell vpower/Tesco 99 fuel you need to run the car on.
Tony
#5
General driving in the dry, yeah, leave it fully back. If you're going nowhere near the edge of grip then there's no point putting it anywhere else.
If grip goes (wet/ice/snow) or your blasting round corners, change it as you see fit. Slow speed manouvers should be done in the fully open position.
If grip goes (wet/ice/snow) or your blasting round corners, change it as you see fit. Slow speed manouvers should be done in the fully open position.
Last edited by 4evernewbie; 27 August 2013 at 05:19 PM.
#6
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From: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
The easiest way to describe it is that in lock all the wheels move together at the same speed, in open the front and rear are more independent of each other.
The further forward you roll the dial the more the differential will "lock" or gain resistance, if you put the car in lock and try turning you will find it jumps or makes funny noises, you can release lock by either pulling up the handbrake a couple of notches or rolling the dial back.
Read the manual in the archive and then have a play, dry its happy in the green, wet you can move it up a notch or 3, snow, you may find either lock or near lock the best positions to be in.
New age are slightly different as they have an "Auto" setting which does most of that for you
Tony
The further forward you roll the dial the more the differential will "lock" or gain resistance, if you put the car in lock and try turning you will find it jumps or makes funny noises, you can release lock by either pulling up the handbrake a couple of notches or rolling the dial back.
Read the manual in the archive and then have a play, dry its happy in the green, wet you can move it up a notch or 3, snow, you may find either lock or near lock the best positions to be in.
New age are slightly different as they have an "Auto" setting which does most of that for you
Tony
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