Autobahn88 FMIC (already fitted) or my HDI GT2 one?
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Hi guys
My blobeye, aka the latest money pit, came with an ugly silver FMIC on it. It looks like an Autobahn88 one but I am only going on the Jubilee clips used. I knew that silver was going to go if it killed me so I bought a HDI GT2 FMIC from Aztec Performance.
I then got my custom anodizing guys to to a pretty spot on black anodizing job on it after confirming with HDI themselves that this was fine to do (they anodize them black too but they don't seem to make them available here)
The front bumper was mullered due to what looked like a troop of butchers hacking away at the back of it to try to make it clear the pipework, and not succeeding!
I gave the HDI kit to the tuner and asked them to take the frontend off, fit the HDI kit and make all necessary repairs to the front bumper/cut it out properly.
The told me that they had various concerns over the HDI kit compared to what was already on there and that they thought it was a step backwards. I have to say I noticed that the special HDI tube joints weren't provided with this kit, just normal jubilee clips and found this disappointing but the tuner was concerned about the pipework going under the engine etc and just thought it was a bad idea.
I had my reservations but told them that I trust their judgement. They took off the Autobahn88 one, cleaned/painted it black then refitted it.
I currently have a brand spanking new HDI GT2 FMIC kit, black anodized, sitting in my garage and I am wondering if I should hold on to it or sell it on? Bear in mind that I won't be having the frontend off again soon or have plans on another map tweak, I am just genuinely curious for input. I will go read through the old search results again in the mean time.
Cheers,
Nick.
My blobeye, aka the latest money pit, came with an ugly silver FMIC on it. It looks like an Autobahn88 one but I am only going on the Jubilee clips used. I knew that silver was going to go if it killed me so I bought a HDI GT2 FMIC from Aztec Performance.
I then got my custom anodizing guys to to a pretty spot on black anodizing job on it after confirming with HDI themselves that this was fine to do (they anodize them black too but they don't seem to make them available here)
The front bumper was mullered due to what looked like a troop of butchers hacking away at the back of it to try to make it clear the pipework, and not succeeding!
I gave the HDI kit to the tuner and asked them to take the frontend off, fit the HDI kit and make all necessary repairs to the front bumper/cut it out properly.
The told me that they had various concerns over the HDI kit compared to what was already on there and that they thought it was a step backwards. I have to say I noticed that the special HDI tube joints weren't provided with this kit, just normal jubilee clips and found this disappointing but the tuner was concerned about the pipework going under the engine etc and just thought it was a bad idea.
I had my reservations but told them that I trust their judgement. They took off the Autobahn88 one, cleaned/painted it black then refitted it.
I currently have a brand spanking new HDI GT2 FMIC kit, black anodized, sitting in my garage and I am wondering if I should hold on to it or sell it on? Bear in mind that I won't be having the frontend off again soon or have plans on another map tweak, I am just genuinely curious for input. I will go read through the old search results again in the mean time.
Cheers,
Nick.
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O honestly don't know but I wouldn't put it on without having the map tweaked. Would you say that the Autobahn88 is perfectly good for now and that I am not really losing much over the HDI? If so then I will leave it on and revisit this once the engine is changed/uprated down the road.
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Hi Nick,
If the garage is making recommendations based purely on which way the pipework runs, I would seriously question their opinion.![Ponder2](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/ponder2.gif)
The HDi coolers are used on high end 850bhp competition cars for a reason. They have superior cooling, flow and low pressure drop.![Cool](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/cool.gif)
As Banny says, you may even get away with using your old pipework, should you be inclined to go that route.
The only kits which utilize the new "pro" clamps are the Hawkeye kits. It's not just the clamps that are different, but the pipework needs to also be different to suit. We now have actual pictures of each and every kit which will be updated on our website to avoid any confusion.
Correctly fitted there is no issue with the pipework runs on the HDi kits.
It's not about how much power your current cooler can handle but rather how much power it is losing you over a more efficient cooler. Get it fitted and you will see there is no comparison in terms of performance.
BTW, it's a HDi X01-R cooler on your model which is specific for that model, not a GT2 cooler as used on all classics and hawkeyes. Both are tube and fin now thankfully.
If the garage is making recommendations based purely on which way the pipework runs, I would seriously question their opinion.
![Ponder2](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/ponder2.gif)
The HDi coolers are used on high end 850bhp competition cars for a reason. They have superior cooling, flow and low pressure drop.
![Cool](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/cool.gif)
As Banny says, you may even get away with using your old pipework, should you be inclined to go that route.
The only kits which utilize the new "pro" clamps are the Hawkeye kits. It's not just the clamps that are different, but the pipework needs to also be different to suit. We now have actual pictures of each and every kit which will be updated on our website to avoid any confusion.
Correctly fitted there is no issue with the pipework runs on the HDi kits.
It's not about how much power your current cooler can handle but rather how much power it is losing you over a more efficient cooler. Get it fitted and you will see there is no comparison in terms of performance.
BTW, it's a HDi X01-R cooler on your model which is specific for that model, not a GT2 cooler as used on all classics and hawkeyes. Both are tube and fin now thankfully.
![Smile](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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Thanks guys, I will put the HDI up for sale. Shame as I really liked it and went to a fair bit of trouble to get it anodized properly. I want above 500 and as much torque as possible eventually so will revisit the FMIC situation when it comes to that point!
I am thinking that after going to the trouble of researching/confirming with HDI, getting my anodizers to do the work/machine up perfect sealing bungs etc to anodize/fuel & time taking it there/back etc, asking what it cost for just the kit new isn't too much of an ask is it? I have taken such a bath on this car lol....
I am thinking that after going to the trouble of researching/confirming with HDI, getting my anodizers to do the work/machine up perfect sealing bungs etc to anodize/fuel & time taking it there/back etc, asking what it cost for just the kit new isn't too much of an ask is it? I have taken such a bath on this car lol....
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I believed the the HDI would be better too but went with what I was told. As you guys have said, the Autobahn isn't vastly worse for my current setup, it will just hit a wall far earlier.
I will sell this one for now and the new Hayward & Scott system I put on for less than 100 miles and didn't like. That will put some pennies towards more work on the car
![Smile](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Cheers,
Nick.
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I fitted a Harvey HDI to my Bug and it works very well, fortunately it came with Mekalor hose clips not useless Jubilee clips. The 'hot side' pipework runs under the engine whereas earlier versions went over the engine. There are some minor problems with the under-engine pipework, some real and some imaginary, all easily resolvable.
1) It is only supported at the turbo and at the FMIC, so there's a lot of pipework moving about too freely.
2) The pipes hang too low if unsupported and there is a risk of grounding them, especially if the car is lower than standard as mine is.
3) The under-engine pipework can allegedly get battered by stuff thrown up from the road.
Initially I tree-tied the pipes to the ARB, a gash effort but it worked until I made up a proper bracket. Now it's very secure. The FMIC's been on a year now and the pipes have not even been scratched let alone battered!
Harvey reckoned that it was an advantage to have the hot pipe under the engine where it's cool rather than up in the engine bay. He also thought the tube and fin HDI FMIC was in an entirely different performance league to the cheap plate and fin versions. I reckon Harvey knew his stuff.
I think we share a tuner and they weren't convinced by my under-engine pipework either!![Smile](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Paul
1) It is only supported at the turbo and at the FMIC, so there's a lot of pipework moving about too freely.
2) The pipes hang too low if unsupported and there is a risk of grounding them, especially if the car is lower than standard as mine is.
3) The under-engine pipework can allegedly get battered by stuff thrown up from the road.
Initially I tree-tied the pipes to the ARB, a gash effort but it worked until I made up a proper bracket. Now it's very secure. The FMIC's been on a year now and the pipes have not even been scratched let alone battered!
Harvey reckoned that it was an advantage to have the hot pipe under the engine where it's cool rather than up in the engine bay. He also thought the tube and fin HDI FMIC was in an entirely different performance league to the cheap plate and fin versions. I reckon Harvey knew his stuff.
I think we share a tuner and they weren't convinced by my under-engine pipework either!
![Smile](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Paul
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These are the clips that come with the Hybrid / HDi kits as standard:
![](http://www2.hybrid-power.com/fg-xr6/8.jpg)
The "Pro" kit available for the Hawkeye uses these also:
![](http://www2.hybrid-power.com/fg-xr6/6.jpg)
It's worth noting re the pipework fitment on the Blobeyes running underneath the car - correctly fitted the pipework is not the lowest part of the car, in fact you can re-fit your undertray if you wish. Therefore it's a non-issue.
The good news is that the new kits are tube and fin now for the Blobeyes, whereas they used to be bar and plate which aren't as good.
Hope that helps clear some things up
![](http://www2.hybrid-power.com/fg-xr6/8.jpg)
The "Pro" kit available for the Hawkeye uses these also:
![](http://www2.hybrid-power.com/fg-xr6/6.jpg)
It's worth noting re the pipework fitment on the Blobeyes running underneath the car - correctly fitted the pipework is not the lowest part of the car, in fact you can re-fit your undertray if you wish. Therefore it's a non-issue.
The good news is that the new kits are tube and fin now for the Blobeyes, whereas they used to be bar and plate which aren't as good.
Hope that helps clear some things up
![Smile](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#11
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I fitted a Harvey HDI to my Bug and it works very well, fortunately it came with Mekalor hose clips not useless Jubilee clips. The 'hot side' pipework runs under the engine whereas earlier versions went over the engine. There are some minor problems with the under-engine pipework, some real and some imaginary, all easily resolvable.
1) It is only supported at the turbo and at the FMIC, so there's a lot of pipework moving about too freely.
2) The pipes hang too low if unsupported and there is a risk of grounding them, especially if the car is lower than standard as mine is.
3) The under-engine pipework can allegedly get battered by stuff thrown up from the road.
Initially I tree-tied the pipes to the ARB, a gash effort but it worked until I made up a proper bracket. Now it's very secure. The FMIC's been on a year now and the pipes have not even been scratched let alone battered!
Harvey reckoned that it was an advantage to have the hot pipe under the engine where it's cool rather than up in the engine bay. He also thought the tube and fin HDI FMIC was in an entirely different performance league to the cheap plate and fin versions. I reckon Harvey knew his stuff.
I think we share a tuner and they weren't convinced by my under-engine pipework either!![Smile](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Paul
1) It is only supported at the turbo and at the FMIC, so there's a lot of pipework moving about too freely.
2) The pipes hang too low if unsupported and there is a risk of grounding them, especially if the car is lower than standard as mine is.
3) The under-engine pipework can allegedly get battered by stuff thrown up from the road.
Initially I tree-tied the pipes to the ARB, a gash effort but it worked until I made up a proper bracket. Now it's very secure. The FMIC's been on a year now and the pipes have not even been scratched let alone battered!
Harvey reckoned that it was an advantage to have the hot pipe under the engine where it's cool rather than up in the engine bay. He also thought the tube and fin HDI FMIC was in an entirely different performance league to the cheap plate and fin versions. I reckon Harvey knew his stuff.
I think we share a tuner and they weren't convinced by my under-engine pipework either!
![Smile](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Paul
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I'd be interested to know how this is achieved as I'm about to fit an HDI FMIC on a mate's Blob. How is the pipework supported other than at the FMIC and turbo? If it can be done without making up a bracket that will save a lot of work. The undertray might support it but many people fitting FMICs also fit alternative exhaust manifolds (as in this case) that eliminate the undertray.
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