Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

Hi guys, from this thread here (Click here for link) I have recently rebuilt my engine, and will be putting it in next weekend. Now I have to run the bugger in, so what is the best oil for running in??

Now my old school head is telling me 10w40 or 15w40 fully MINERAL oil, as this should coke up my rings and everything nicely.

But but new school head is saying that 10w40 semi synth is fine, now at the moment my old school head is winning the battle.

All internal parts are either oiled up (bores), or has Graphogen paste on (crank/cams/conrods), so initial lubrication isn't a problem. Will also before starting put some more oil in the bores (tiny bit in each), so reducing chances of scoring or marking the bores etc etc, yes it will be a bit blue on startup, but after what its gone through thats not a bad thing imho.

toyney83

iTrader: (3)

Just had a 2.1 built. They ran for the 1st 50 miles and carried out an oil change. I ran for the next 500 miles before doing another oil and filter change. All this was done using 15w40 mineral. Just coming up to 1000 miles now so will be changing to 10w40 semi for the next 3000 and then I'll be going to synthetic

RICHARD J

iTrader: (4)

A cheap 10/40 semi synthetic with no additives is best. However you need a running in map on it so you can give it a little boost to allow the rings to bed in properly. I'd change it at 100 miles, then 500 then at 1000 change to fully synthetic.

AS Performance

iTrader: (4)

a MINERAL is best IMO.................wouldn't personally use a semi but each to their own

if you want to do the job "properly" then use Millers CRO 10w40 specific running-in oil

carry on the shelf if required

0191-4103770

RICHARD J

iTrader: (4)

The only reason for using mineral oil is to allow the rings to bed in, but if you use a cheap semi with no additives & give it some boost the rings will still bed in. Mineral offers a modern engine little protection against ware so it's not good for bearing surfaces. Different engine builders have differing views on this but I won't run in on mineral again after seeing a set of shells delaminate on it. Only my opinion, but a valid one.

drummog

Richard J

Can you advise the make and name of a 10W/40 semi with no additives. Cannot think of one offhand.

eddie

Tidgy

boost on a new build brave, but then depends who you ask.

500 on mineral, 500 on semi with no or waste gate boost, then fully synthetic and give it the full gonads lol

RICHARD J

iTrader: (4)

If you want your rings to bed in you need boost to push the rings onto the bores with enough pressure. As I originally stated a running in map is essential to be able to do this safely.

RICHARD J

iTrader: (4)

In all honesty there probably isn't one, but the fewer additives the better. The cheaper semis are probably the best for running in though.

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

Well the rings are the originals on the Omega Pistons, as they were all within tolerance, and refitted into their original cylinders, so that shouldn't be a major issue, just need coking up again.

The bearings are ACL Race so don't have the chrome coverings on them, so they should be ok, and all bearings/cams etc have Graphogen Paste so again should be ok.

I don't agree with the Mineral oil not offering as much protection, yes they break down, yes they can "go off" but this happens after a fair few miles, the length of time that the oil will be in will make the breakdown/going off a non-issue. Plus its NOT going to be on boost, so again no issues.

Running in map?? Whats the point?? I will just have to watch my boost gauge and keep the revs down and go slower (how I normally drive anyways). And I'm running a standard ECU, so will not be mapped until the engine has been run in.


As for the Millers running in oil, what is the benefit of this?? Will have to have a look.

RICHARD J

iTrader: (4)

If you have changed the CR atall or done other mods like Turbo etc then you need a running in map to allow any boost safely. If you haven't replaced the rings, have you honed the bores? Are you only running in the shells? If so I would do 100miles on semi then change it again in a few hundred then go straight to a fully synth. The theory behind mineral use is really just for bedding in rings.

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

The cylinders have had nothing other than a clean with an oily rag, and the rings are in their original cylinders.
BUT imho because the rings have been rotated/checked for clearance then will need recoking, so will need mineral oil.
I know with just big end bearing changes you can drive as normal straight after on cars where you can leave the pistons and rods in the block, as the bearings don't actually touch (in theory).
So for the sake of some cheap oil is there point??

The ONLY thing that has been changed, are the manifolds and up pipe, the turbo, injectors, etc etc are as it was. But I will be getting her mapped, with bigger top-feed injectors, and possibly Turbo.

But will probably just drive off boost, and limiting revs for 500miles, and run mineral for the first 100, then change for more until 500, then change filter and change to Semi Synth then.

drummog

This car has done 3,500 miles on a mineral oil or dino in the US.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2304083

The used oil analysis advises the oil is still in spec but just after those miles.

I did a UOA on my Sport after 9,000 miles on a synthetic and the oil was still well in spec both viscosity and active additives.

eddie

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

Cool, which shows me for less than 1000 miles it will be perfect.
Will have a read of that in a bit.

53

iTrader: (41)

If you do the mineral running in properly with changes after initial heat cycles and subsequent changes with hard and varied driving 500-1000 miles, I would go straight to a fully synthetic Why waste time on your engines life by messing about for 1000's of further running in miles on a semi Built engines don't last forever enjoy every mile you can

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

Agreed, and will 100% be using mineral oil for the running in. Yes the "specialist" running in oil may well be "better", but not found anything that gives proof of the claims.