crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

Ok so I've removed plenty of engines and boxes but has always been the engine out firsts were as this time I'm just gonna drop the box out .. The plan is to swap my clutch and flywheel over this weekend and was looking for a few handy hints tips to make life easier.

I have also invested in a gearbox jack which arrived today and looks the business

The job is been done on a drive so no ramp ...

Is it just a case of releasing prop from diff, then box from engine, obvs the clutch fork till box is free and sliding it backwards till there is enough room to work with ... Do front drive shafts have to be released from box ?

I really cannot be arsed with a engine out just to change the clutch so gonna try the other way round

Thanks, all tips will be appreshated ..... Also if someone can put a list of the torque settings for clutch and flywheel bolts that would be great...

Cheers people Csf

1509joe

iTrader: (2)

Take engine out a lot handier especially if you've no lift

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

Engine out surely has to be the longer way I understand as I don't have a ramp it may be abit if a pain but surely the trasmission jack will make things a lot easier ??

RedScoob

I've not tried doing that job by taking the gearbox out, but I'd imagine that it's going to be a PITA without a lift/ pit. I'd opt for the engine out route, you could easily get the swap done in a day.

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

Yeh i no I can get it done in a day if I take engine out but if I take the box out save all the hassle of having to re coolant... But also I've just bought a gearbox jack so might aswell put to good use

RedScoob

Fair enough. My concern would be, will the box go back far enough to access the clutch if the car's still on the floor?

jameswrx

iTrader: (4)

Without a ramp I'd go Engine out.

I've done it both ways and I can do it quicker engine out anyway but last time I had a ramp so did gearbox.

boosted

Take the box out, engine out is a lot of work! Gearbox can be done lying on your back, its not a heavy box, if your man enough just lift it up off your chest. Intercooler and downpipe off and you will get to all the bolts.
Taking the engine out you need to strip hand the engine down, rad, coolant, lambda sensor, inlet manifold, air box, battery, battery box, fuel pipes and lots more!

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

Yes this is Also a worry.... I'm thinking get the car up on axle stands and remove box my biggest concern is getting the box and engine back mated, I no what a pain it is to do when putting the engine in so is it harder the other way round....

boosted

It can be, you just have to make sure the clutch disc is 100% centred, get the box lifted up onto the 1st motion shaft abd then a trolley jack under it, have a rest then you can play about with jack height and alignment

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

How hard was it to get the engine and gearbox back alined when u took the gearbox out first.... I don't have a clutch alignment tool so abit worried it could be a pig to do !

If I go gearbox first ... Won't have all the fafing of taking down pipe and redoing coolant ?

boosted

Downpipe is best off both ways, easier to get to bottom bell housing bolts on drivers side. I just put my engine in yesterday, was in and out three times to get the clutch working. Bit of a mission. Tight as hell on the dowels too, was a full days work to put engine in and get it running again, but I did have everything stripped off the engine, pas, aircon, alt, inlet, ex, fuel pipes, rad etc.
if I was just doing clutch then I would def just stealth the box off the back, especially if you outside, its fine and cozy under there

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

Well like I said I have a adjustable gearbox jack which should be able to angle if needed.... Guess I need to be 100% sure the friction plate is centered iirc thats the key to a quick install but don't have a clutch alignment tool....

jameswrx

iTrader: (4)

It's easier to align with gearbox out way as the engine out way does need jiggling.

You don't need to strip inlet manifold off when engine out lol. It's swings and roundabouts really. I've just done engine out a lot more and it's out in an hour.

Gearbox still needs down pipe off plus rest of exhaust then prop, linkage, driveshafts etc.

On my drive engine out, at work gearbox out.

Fudgey

iTrader: (1)

I have just put a box in this weekend... Never done one before and it took 6.5 hours between rain showers to get out, and probably 4 to get back in. And i had a mate help me get it back in. If i was on my own no doibt it would have taken a lot longer.

Id pay someone to do it lol.

All the nuts and bolts were rusted, some rounded but all were tight as ****.

I got the car jacked up as high as i could on 4 axle stands, front wheels off, undertrays off if you have them, remove roll pins from drive shafts (one of mne would only come 3/4 out no matter what way i punched it. Ended up snapping off but i could still pop the shaft off luckily) remove bottom ball joint nut, jack up the disc to push the sus arm up, then lever the lower arm down, i used jack handle for that. Once free pull hub assy out and shaft will pop off.
Remove turbo heatshield. This was a c*nt to get to all the bolts, that were rusted and tight as fukk. Then remove downpipe nuts/screws. then remove exhaust from centre section.

Remove prop guard, prop to diff bolts and withdraw prop. Remove selector and support arm.
Under bonnet remove topmount, pitch stop, clutch slave, 10mm allen key to remove round cap, screw an m6 screw about 50mm long into clutch fork pivot pin and pull (tap) it out. Remove screw for thin black earth cable from bulkhead and unplug harness plugs.
Support box, then remove all nuts bolts from box and cross member mounts.

Now the fun begins. Luckily mine has been off about 24k ago, so it did come off with a bit of wiggling.

Obvoiusly if your doing the clutch put the bearing on the gearbx shaft, fit the fork arm and replace the pin and cap. Then nail it all back together. I didnt bother with the heat shields tho lol

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

After reading that I'm now seriously considering just taking the engine out instead, tbh I think I can get by box off in a cupple of hours but having not done it this way round before there could unexpected problems that add time..

I no I can whip the engine out pretty quick also I was just hoping to avoid having to discon the exhaust system ( which It seems I would have to anyway if box came out first ) and having to re do the coolant system.....

If there any tricks to make sure the cluch is alined think some one once told me to put a cupple of v small blobs of super glue between it and that will hold it iin place any thoughts ?

Fudgey

iTrader: (1)

I normally use a socket extension bar maybe with insulation tpe wrapped round it for a tighter fit in the friction plate. put the cover on and nip up the bolts so it will hold it, but also still slack enough to move it about. then align it by eye as best you can.

i have never had any trouble doing it like that.

remember if you take engine out you still need to remove pivot pin.

my94wrx

iTrader: (4)

i have done it both ways several times and would now always opt for engine out especially if you are on your own, trying to wrestle a gearbox in and out while lying on your back is no joke.

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

There will be two of us, but starting to come round to the thinking that engine out will be much quicker with no ramp think I just want to use my new gearbox jack but just no point

bigarf

iTrader: (67)

Theres no way i would even try to change the clutch from underneath if i didnt have a ramp or pit.its much easier from above by removing the engine.i have a pit and have done it both ways many a time.but still prefer to do it from above.its a bit of a no brainer really.either roll about on the floor with dirt falling all over you as you undo the bolts.then have to man handle a gearbox down onto your chest.or take the engine out and just have the job of filling the rad back up with coolant when your done.

johned

If you do the gearbox out method remember as mentioned the clutch pivot pin as a lot have been caught out by it.

jameswrx

iTrader: (4)

Just buy an alligning tool if you're that worried mate, they're peanuts from Motor factors or halfords.

swaynie

iTrader: (6)

To do a clutch change you don't have to remove the box. When I did one you can use a trolley jack roll gearbox back to the bulk head and you can get your hands in to do the job

bigarf

iTrader: (67)

you don't have to remove the box to do a clutch change,thats a first for me

Turbotits

iTrader: (2)

He means the box can be pulled back from the engine far enough to gain access to the pressure plate bolts so the box doesnt have to be dropped. Ive never done it on a scoob, but we do most of the fwd stuff like this at work.

boosted

Sounds like thats worth a bash, might even get away with leaving shafts in

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

This is effectivly what I was asking, have a gearbox holder/ jack so thinking just jack up front of car un bolt box from engine and I take it the prop shaft has to be compleatly disconnected from diff and then just slide it back on the on the gearbox holder...

Dose the exhaust have to disconnected this way ? And do then drive shaft have to be disconnected ? How hard to get the box and engine back mated.

Cheers

swaynie

iTrader: (6)

You have to remove the prop shaft and drain all the fluid from the box.
the shafts are east yo remove once the rear support is off as you can move the box side to side to get the shafts out and then undo all the bolts on the box roll it back and do the clutch

The guide I used

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t128...pictorial.html

boosted

I could of done the clutch in the amount of time we have been talking lol. Better still bring it round mine and ill do it for a £100

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

Lol, doing it on Friday just getting the advice in first I'm swaying towards the engine out route. I can prep on thurs and just whip engine in and out on Friday gonna pick up some coolant and a clutch alignment tool tomorrow.