Cold running issues?
#1
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Cold running issues?
As above.
When I start my car it starts straight away and idles perfectly, when you go to press the accelerator it splutters a little and then revs normally. This keeps on happening until the oil is up to temperatures around 65+, this is annoying at junctions etc as the car wants to stall and so you look like a learner driver trying to set off over revving it
When up to temp the car runs perfectly. I've done a lot of searching and can't find a clear answer as most results bring up lumpy idling which it doesn't. I've cleaned the ICV and still no change.
Anyone have any ideas, could the coolant temp sensor cause this?
When I start my car it starts straight away and idles perfectly, when you go to press the accelerator it splutters a little and then revs normally. This keeps on happening until the oil is up to temperatures around 65+, this is annoying at junctions etc as the car wants to stall and so you look like a learner driver trying to set off over revving it
When up to temp the car runs perfectly. I've done a lot of searching and can't find a clear answer as most results bring up lumpy idling which it doesn't. I've cleaned the ICV and still no change.
Anyone have any ideas, could the coolant temp sensor cause this?
#2
yep and about £30 from import car parts. make sure you get the ecu one and not the temp gauge one before you buy one though get the 02 sensor checked as symptoms are the same
Last edited by madscoob; 02 February 2014 at 10:39 PM.
#3
Its called an engine coolant temperature sensor.I changed mine because car would start from cold and start if was at running temperature if I turned off for a minute then on again but if the temperature gauge was between hot and cold it wouldn't restart without a push/bump start. Its like the automatic choke so to speak. I would have 02 sensor quick too if was me
#4
#7
Not as much if you whip the expansion tank lid off, squeeze the top hose as much as possible and pop the cap back on the tank,
then remove the ECT sensor and pop in the new one,
you may loose a cup full using this method.
hth
then remove the ECT sensor and pop in the new one,
you may loose a cup full using this method.
hth
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#8
Won't **** out its not under pressure when car is off (do this on a cold engine). The ect is at quite a high point on engine and water can't flow up,so will only loose whats above it. It could he the heater part of 02sensor causing the problem. The heater mimics operating temperature of exhaust gases and helps control air/fuel ratios at cold starts. If heater part is broke the sensor won't read properly untill its warmed up from exhaust gases.
Last edited by scoobyJim2; 04 February 2014 at 02:34 PM.
#11
You've changed CTS,do you mean the ECT? On the inlet manifold near the turbo! My friends c20let (vauxhall 2ltr turbo engine) in his mk3 astra runs terrible until warm,it splutters & stalls,this is because it needs tuning and keeps burning up the spark plugs! So I suggest getting your plugs & coil packs checked.
#12
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The Coolant Teperature Sensor behind the alternator, it's near the turbo on older models not Newage, though it's not on the inlet manifold.
It was mapped just before Christmas, and did it before then but I stupidly forgot about it.
It was mapped just before Christmas, and did it before then but I stupidly forgot about it.
#13
You're absolutely correct,just looked at my newage,I changed one on a classic before. Don't know why I said inlet manifold (obviously no water goes through there doh). I know them to be called ECT/engine coolant temperature sensor, I'm thought CTS/coolant temperature sensor might be something else,like temperature gauge. You say you did it before christmas and stupidly forgot about it. What did you do?
#15
#18
#19
Mine had similar symptoms after mapping, I thought it was running too rich on choke but turned out to be the opposite and a quick map tweak with a little extra fueling fixed the problem.
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