Hi
This is my first thread and I'm at my wits end.I recently fitted a new exedy sports clutch (not the cheap chinese crap) and a 5.5 kg billet flywheel.The clutch pedal didn't feel right and felt like it was slipping in 1st and 2nd gear.I then changed the slave cylinder and the pedal position felt better, but it still feels like it's slipping in 1st and 2nd.The revs come on quick but not picking up quick enough.Has anyone had this problem before? Is the clutch not making enough contact? Its a 1999 uk impreza turbo

 

Normally you would get slip in the higher gears, 4th and 5th. Not 1st and 2nd.

 

did you bleed the slave cylinder properly, have you given it a good launch to clean up both surfaces ?

 

Higher gears feels o.k.I knew you would lose a bit torque but really struggles up a steep hill in lower gears.

 

If you hold the brake with your left foot and plant the throttle in second to load the engine up at say 4000 rpm. What happens???

 

Higher gears feel o.k.Yes did bleed slave cylinder with fresh fluid.Launched a few times as thought there might be crap on the surface.Also dont know if it needs more time to bed in.

 

Maybe "break it in" easy for 500 miles to give it a chance to bed in?

 

+1.SJ.

 

Thanks for all the replies guys.I will give it a few more weeks then to see if there is any change and beds in.Clutch has only been in for 3 weeks and slave cylinder 1 week.Was worried that the flywheel might be the problem.Paid a bit extra for a new billet one as I did not want a remachined one that might let go when I do a trackday.

 

I do loads of track days - no reason why they should be hard on clutches IMO - just don't slip it on gear change.

 

You should not need to bed a clutch in, not nowadays .
If it's slipping you have a problem
Any mechanical noise when it's slipping ?

 

Don't take it personal mate but your talking **** taken direct from EXEDY website:Break in period should be that of 500 miles of city type driving, double the break in period for highway driving. No aggressive driving. No hole shots or drag launches. Gear changes should be made at 4,000 RPM or less. No speed shifting.SJ.

 

Might be worth removing the rubber boot around the clutch fork and having a look (with a torch) at the clutch release bearing. Make sure it's seated correctly in the clutch cover as I have had a problem with them not seating right.

If it's stuck and doesn't move right with the bearing.. Get a screwdriver and insert it between the bearing and the clutch cover bearing retainer locking ring and keep the ring pushed flat against the clutch cover and then pop the bearing out of the cover. Then relocate the bearing by pushing the clutch fork back towards the rear of the car and make sure it clicks in. Then looking again make sure the bearing locking ring is not stuck and moves with the bearing when pulling the bearing.

 

Make sure your drive shafts haven't popped out & are pushed all the way in front & rear.

 

I think it even says that on the box!
Although no idea what 'hole shots' are

 

There you go mate:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holeshotsee!!!you can learn something new every day on scoobynet.SJ.

 

Well bloody hell! I never knew that
Cheers buddy!

 

I don't believe for one minute it slips it 1st and 2nd but not the taller gears. Have you loaded the car up yet with the brake to so if it's actually slipping?

 

Mine slipped and smelled for about 500 to 600 miles. Still judders occasionally but no slippage.

 

After leaving it slipping too long , (shame on me )

I managed to score my flywheel a bit so but as I needed the car next day I did not skim it.

So after changing my clutch to an Exceedy blue* I found it still slipped when I pulled away a little fast from the lights. That situation has improved however since , which I had hoped for as the plate moulded itself in to the scored flywheel side.

* I regret now as it probably will be toast soon after new TD05 is mapped.

 

Don't take this personally either but you don't know what your talking about , there that's far more polite than talking **** , but I've had impreza's since 1998 and have fitted a good few clutches in that time , from standard to paddle set ups, I currently have the white p1 prototype that over the last year I have stripped to shell and fully restored, I fitted an exedy pink to my P1 as have had them before and always been good for power up to the 330 to 350 area .
Not once have I bedded a clutch in , and not once have I had issues with slipping. What I'm saying is that bedding in has sod all to do with yours slipping.
If you had said you were suffering judder then I would where that a few launches would be the correct action.
You've **** ed something up , hope you get it sorted .

 

So what your trying to say is you know better thenEXEDYthe company and engineers that makes there own clutch,I have nothing more to type on this thread but thought that I would have to answer back to your horse **** reply.Anyway my advice was not for you,so like I said before don't take it personal,as my advice was for the OP and not you as you are a genius and know everything already .SJ.

 

Lol glad you've not taken it personally .
Yes exedy say bed ther clutches in, I am merely saying that I've never experienced a slipping clutch due to bedding in.
Keyboard warrior what a ****.
I now remember why I left scabbynet 4 yrs ago, glad I rejoined to remind me what ***** are still on here.
It's a open forum , which means you can have opinions , ever so sorry that don't match yours.
Bored now

 

.SJ.

 

I've never ran clutches in and never had problems...

 

Your special jay.SJ.

 

Hi
Never thought it might be a problem with the drive shaft that might have come out.Thanks RichardJ.Will get it checked out Friday.Hope the diff is not knackered.

 

Hi

IIRC there is adjustment to the clutch pedal itself on classics. If this has been adjusted in the past with a slightly worn clutch it may now be still holding the pedal at a point where the hydraulics are still acting on the release bearing holding the release bearing against the springs causing there to be not enough spring tension on the drive plate. (if that makes sense)

You need to back the pedal off completely then adjust back in stages to achieve a proper bite point and allow no pressure into the hydraulics (master cylinder) when the pedal is released.

Bedding in is still a required element when fitting new friction materials I.e clutches and brakes. The reason behind this is to put heat cycles through the material in a controlled way. This makes the material settle fully to its surroundings (the material compound of the flywheel or discs for example).
This again iirc finalizes the hardening process of the metal components the material is fixed to and acting on. If you don't bed these things in then it will effect the longevity to the material and you more than likely suffer from judder.

 

Any update on this, is the issue resolved yet?