What can I say - how does anyone manage to keep the standard subaru stuff in their car!!!!!
Fitted the Infinity 605CS at the weekend (with a bit of help from ScoobyNet ) and have almost finished upgrading the ICE now. The sound is sooo much better and the tweeters really help to "raise" the level of the sound in the front. I've coupled them with Kenwood PSR70Ps in the rear shelf and a 500 watt Pioneer Sub and a Pioneer GMX904 600watt 4 way amp. (Set off my sisters fiance's golf v5 car alarm when I was testing the install )
Need to upgrade the sub now (old one going in the other halfs car ) Can anyone recommend a decent 12" sub for a sealed box and what sort of price is it gonna be? The amp is 300 watt bridged....(not sure of continuous??)
Also, not sure to amp the infinitys (running from the head unit at the moment) using the existing amp and powering the kenwoods from the head unit or to get a smaller amp to power the infinity's? What do you all think. What size amp would I need for the 605's???

Cheers
Neil

P.S. - Thanks to John for his duck tape craddle idea for the tweeters

Edited to add the thanks

[Edited by ScoobyJawa - 10/15/2001 11:43:43 AM]

 

You are running the Kenwood PS70P off the amp, but not the 605CS? I would switch it the other way round. And get ready to laugh your head off when you hear how good it sounds. As much fun as adding 30 bhp!

Given them at least 100WRMS each. They are rated at 90WRMS. My amp is a Kenwood which is supposed to give 150WRMS at 14.4V power supply at <0.8%THD. I have the amp on maximum sensitivity and the headunit volume as high as 2/3 for dynamic music - higher for quieter stuff. Headunit output is rated at 1800mV, but the highest amp sensitivity is 100mV - anyway it sounds good! Any higher volume and I suspect either the speakers bottom out or the amp clips. A 10Hz increase in your high pass filter allows you to extract a bit more from the amp/speakers, but beware a frequency gap occuring when you start to localise the sub position - happens on mine if HPF >90Hz.

[Edited by john banks - 10/15/2001 12:01:08 PM]

 

John,

lol!! Thought that was probably the way to go, just wanted to get them in for now, then I can start playing a bit Definately switch em round though!!

Sort of understand the second part but baffles me a bit!!! Might pop to the local ICE shop and get them to set it all up properly for me, should only take em an hour or so!!!!

Cheers

 

When I asked an ICE shop to troubleshoot a noise problem is another install they weren't interested.

1. What I am saying is give them 100-150WRMS (200-300 "Max" each).

2. Start off by using the high pass filter in the amp set so that everything below 80Hz is filtered (it is obviously a slope but I'm keeping it simple).

3. Run your sub using the low pass filter in the amp set so that everything above 80Hz is filtered.

4. Just connect the rear speakers to the headunit.

By not sending so much of the low frequency stuff to the front speakers and diverting them to a sub which is designed to handle that stuff (and vice versa) you can get more volume out of your amp/speaker combination with lower distortion.

Front component speakers are usually about 6" diameter and are not usually built to handle frequencies well below 80Hz or so - if you look at the curve on the side of the box, the sensitivity usually increases quite steeply all the way up from 40 to 80Hz. Low frequencies demand high power = lots of air moved to hear them well. If you plotted the power distribution for "music" you would find that a HUGE amount of it is below 200Hz.

If you let the front speakers only handle the higher stuff, it means they can reproduce them better - a bit like a record player on a ship I suppose - better on dry land. No sorry that is a rubbish analogy.

If you move both the low and high pass filters up, then the sub will take on more and more of the work, and the front speakers less of the work. Even a 10Hz increase can be a substantial workload removed from the poor front components. If you go too high and the sub is producing higher frequencies it starts to sound poor, for the reason that very low stuff is not very directional, but the high stuff you can pinpoint. In a good install you should not be able to tell that the bass is coming from a sub banging away in the boot. If you can, then something is wrong with your levels or filter settings, or your front speakers just don't go low enough (had this problem with some not-so-cheap Kenwoods before the Infinity 605CS).

Hope this helps and I haven't bored you, but if my experience is anything to go by you are on your own setting it up unless someone can help you.

 

Cheers John,

You've not bored me at all!!

Thats great info, much appreciated and really clarifies it nicely. I think the HPF and LPF are already set around the levels you are mentioning and I have the gain on the amp set around the middle marker which is what the instructions say is about "normal".
Seems a bit more fiddling and I'll have an even bigger smile than I've got now

Thanks again
Neil.