Hi new to ScoobyNet here is my ice upto now
#1
Hi new to ScoobyNet here is my ice upto now
Got a bit bored this summer so i did this as i was so fed up with the ice in my sti.
I managed to get some decent sub's from the uk on sale in a reputable shop cost me £50 each. It took a long time measuring the boot area as i needed a seamless fit for 5 cubic foot of bandpass box 2.5 cubic foot per sub was recomended. initial design below.
It was quite a shock to see the size of the boxes it meant no boot left?? or very little anyway.
had to strip the seats out and begin sound proofing, also decided to fit a false floor with access to the spare wheel well.
after this stage had been completed i sat the sub enclosures onto the false floor and all fitted better than i expected.
the next stage was to cover the enclosures, then refitted them this took forever as with the covering the size increased and what was a snug fit turned into a nightmare. side enclosures where also fitted with amps, cap and as i used zero gauge from the battery a splitter for the two class D 1500watt rms amps.
Then i took some time fitting these. the wiring was a sod as everyone recomends different approach 1 OHM, 2 OHM ect. so i decided 1 OHM was for me.
I also bought some component sets for all four doors this was a nightmare they turned out to be 1"larger than any one else recommended fitting but after some juggling they went in a peech. sound proofing the doors made an instant improvement no more rattles.
One thing i had to do was replace the entire wiring system for the ice that meant all new wires to all four doors they all fitted through the standard gromet with a little wd.
All I had to do was turn it on !!!!!!!!!!!!!
After this i had to port directly through the rear shelf.
I have always had good sound systems in all of my cars but this takes the P}55. I have never had to refit so many parts to a car because the ice rattled it loose. number plate holder, plastic pins for the bumper ,rear tail light's and bulbs, rear wash wipe. ect ect ect.
I had always thought this would be very heavy but it isnt 38kg in total and made hardly any difference to performance.
any thoughts are welcome.
Vince
I managed to get some decent sub's from the uk on sale in a reputable shop cost me £50 each. It took a long time measuring the boot area as i needed a seamless fit for 5 cubic foot of bandpass box 2.5 cubic foot per sub was recomended. initial design below.
It was quite a shock to see the size of the boxes it meant no boot left?? or very little anyway.
had to strip the seats out and begin sound proofing, also decided to fit a false floor with access to the spare wheel well.
after this stage had been completed i sat the sub enclosures onto the false floor and all fitted better than i expected.
the next stage was to cover the enclosures, then refitted them this took forever as with the covering the size increased and what was a snug fit turned into a nightmare. side enclosures where also fitted with amps, cap and as i used zero gauge from the battery a splitter for the two class D 1500watt rms amps.
Then i took some time fitting these. the wiring was a sod as everyone recomends different approach 1 OHM, 2 OHM ect. so i decided 1 OHM was for me.
I also bought some component sets for all four doors this was a nightmare they turned out to be 1"larger than any one else recommended fitting but after some juggling they went in a peech. sound proofing the doors made an instant improvement no more rattles.
One thing i had to do was replace the entire wiring system for the ice that meant all new wires to all four doors they all fitted through the standard gromet with a little wd.
All I had to do was turn it on !!!!!!!!!!!!!
After this i had to port directly through the rear shelf.
I have always had good sound systems in all of my cars but this takes the P}55. I have never had to refit so many parts to a car because the ice rattled it loose. number plate holder, plastic pins for the bumper ,rear tail light's and bulbs, rear wash wipe. ect ect ect.
I had always thought this would be very heavy but it isnt 38kg in total and made hardly any difference to performance.
any thoughts are welcome.
Vince
#2
Nice clean install mate, the effort you've put in clearly shows.
I used to have Roccy subs and was very pleased with them. The only reason I got rid of them was due to turning up at a driving range with my 7-iron sticking through one of the cones!
If you use your boot at all I'd highly recommend some guards to stop a similar thing happening to you. there are so many available from full covering to simple cross-bars.
Can you still get your spare wheel out? or is it a can of tyre-weld for such cases?
I used to have Roccy subs and was very pleased with them. The only reason I got rid of them was due to turning up at a driving range with my 7-iron sticking through one of the cones!
If you use your boot at all I'd highly recommend some guards to stop a similar thing happening to you. there are so many available from full covering to simple cross-bars.
Can you still get your spare wheel out? or is it a can of tyre-weld for such cases?
#4
The subs are Vibe space II. the false floor does an ample job if i need to use the boot as it lifts in front of the sub's
HU fitted at the moment is a blue laser double din from SEVIC for £320 motorworld web site every where else they are 499.
They are the dog's dangleies. dvd, sd ipod control sat nav tv does everything you could want.
I used focal comps as they where the best i could buy localy. very good quality. just let my heart buy them as they where an inch to large for the spacers i had made form the origional size of the OE speaker frames.
I cant beleive how strong this system although half volume with the doors closed is about the limit,
HU fitted at the moment is a blue laser double din from SEVIC for £320 motorworld web site every where else they are 499.
They are the dog's dangleies. dvd, sd ipod control sat nav tv does everything you could want.
I used focal comps as they where the best i could buy localy. very good quality. just let my heart buy them as they where an inch to large for the spacers i had made form the origional size of the OE speaker frames.
I cant beleive how strong this system although half volume with the doors closed is about the limit,
#7
That looks really good, u did a great job there, got a couple of amps i need fittin in mine but not got the patience to do it myself, need to find a decent installer so i can get it done but urs has just inspired me!!!
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#8
thing ive always wondered with subs,im not "into" ice as such,so ignore if stupid question,but why face the subs away from the passengers,surely they should face the front of the car,into the car as such,isnt the sound going out the boot lid area like ??
#9
Purely for show pal, personally ive always faced em towards the back seat, gives a slightly better punch. Also less risk of damaging them. The thing is Bass is 'non directional' so it really doesnt matter which way the subs face.
#10
Thanks for the comments.
small update i have now completed the 2 way port to the car through the rear shelf. WOW what a difference.
In short. I ported the sub enclosures through the rear shelf.
Then increased the hole diameter around this to allow air movement from the boot space so in affect just like putting the same subs in a hatch back. it moves a massive amount of air from the boot into the car.
sounds great..
small update i have now completed the 2 way port to the car through the rear shelf. WOW what a difference.
In short. I ported the sub enclosures through the rear shelf.
Then increased the hole diameter around this to allow air movement from the boot space so in affect just like putting the same subs in a hatch back. it moves a massive amount of air from the boot into the car.
sounds great..
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