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Bugeye front door speaker upgrade??

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Old 15 November 2008 | 08:29 AM
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Default Bugeye front door speaker upgrade??

Need some help, want to upgrade the front speakers on the Bugeye wagon. Now from what i gather here is no point doing the rears as they make very little difference, and eed to spend more on the fronts.
Now what size DOES fit. Some say 13.5cm some say 16cm? As this will run off just a head unit (aftermarket JVC unit 4x50) i take it coax are better, but think i will need a spacer. Now some say a corsa one (which one am not sure) but others just use a Scooby one, but that is only 13.5cm. Now obviously bigger is better, so whats the best route?
Old 15 November 2008 | 05:53 PM
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Hi,

I've got Focal 16cm components fitted to the front doors of my car - 54 plate blobeye. Sorry but I didn't fit them (took to an expert) but he made up some MDF spacers. I've also got MB Quart 13.5cm components fitted to the rear doors and I'm really pleased with the sound coming from them . If you can afford it I would recommend getting the door cards Dynamatted (sound proofed) at the same time.

Wolfie.
Old 15 November 2008 | 05:58 PM
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I also have Focal 165 K2P (16.5cm) components in the front of my Spec C with custom made 18mm MDF spacer and fully dynamatted

All made and fitted by me

I didnt bother with the rears as i dont sit in the back to listen to music i just had 2x JL8w3 subs built into the rear passenger footwell and all run off a JL 4x300 amp
Old 15 November 2008 | 08:47 PM
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As above don't bother with the rears - did and it was a waste of money.

If you are running from the headunit only, you are correct coax's are a better bet due to lower power requirements. A headunit claiming 4x50w is in reality putting out closer to 4x15w.

The best thing to do is to make your own MDF spacers, it's easy to do. You can get speakers up to 16.5 to fit easy enough.

Getting an amp too will make a big difference and allow you to run components, it's slippery slope though...

And as above, dynammating doors makes a big difference.
Old 15 November 2008 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by escott
As above don't bother with the rears - did and it was a waste of money.

If you are running from the headunit only, you are correct coax's are a better bet due to lower power requirements. A headunit claiming 4x50w is in reality putting out closer to 4x15w.

The best thing to do is to make your own MDF spacers, it's easy to do. You can get speakers up to 16.5 to fit easy enough.

Getting an amp too will make a big difference and allow you to run components, it's slippery slope though...

And as above, dynammating doors makes a big difference.

excuse me but isn't EVERYTHING to do with a scooby a VERY slippery slope?? lmfao it's like a drug and hell have i got one serious addiction to getting everything perfect! lol
Old 16 November 2008 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by StuartPiper
excuse me but isn't EVERYTHING to do with a scooby a VERY slippery slope?? lmfao it's like a drug and hell have i got one serious addiction to getting everything perfect! lol
Very true - I started with the stereo, then the brakes, suspension and now engine!
Old 16 November 2008 | 10:26 PM
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And somehow, no matter how good it is, it never is quite enough.

The front speaker placement in a bugeye will not always allow you to use a 18mm MDF spacer without snagging the front door cards at higher volumes. It is close though, we are only talking a couple of mm. I have got a set of Raindow 265cmx and they just fit with shaving some of the excess plastic off the back of the door card.

Dynamat The Doors it does make all the difference even if it means cutting the budget on the speakers, and if possible change the speaker cable. I did this recently and was quite suprised at the difference.

Last edited by millersoviet; 16 November 2008 at 10:32 PM.
Old 17 November 2008 | 07:25 PM
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well, have taken upon all the advice, and have decided on the following,
16.5cm JBL speakers
18mm MDF spacer,
box load of dynamat for the doors.
will report back once all installed and running, and of course what it's like to do. might even get creative and take some pics whilst doing it lol
Old 17 November 2008 | 07:38 PM
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exactly what i did always good to have ongoing pics
Old 23 November 2008 | 10:23 AM
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Well, what a suprise i got!
Replaced the head unit with a new Kenwood Double Din system, (one with USB port) and found it was a massive improvement, but not to be out done, i removed the door panels to fit the new speakers and sound deadening.
What did i find, Infinity Reference componenets all professionally installed with upgraded cables the lot. Popped off rear door panels and found they had been upgraded too!
So, after filling the door with sound deadening it's a huge improvement and will now look at a small 2 channel amp to run the fronts, and leave the rears powered by the head unit. Was considering a sub but as its a wagon it'll only get in the way!
but what a simple job it was to do!
Old 23 November 2008 | 09:24 PM
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Result! An amp will make a big difference, and you could always put a sub under the seat - I've got a powered Alpine under one and a 4 Channel Genesis Profile for the fronts under the other - at some point I'll replace the Alpine with a proper one driven by the amp.

This game can cost a lot of money...
Old 27 November 2008 | 09:40 PM
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i put a set of pioneer kevlar ones in my wr1 ,,and there fit stright in
powerd by a amp and a sub in the boot with a amp ,,sounds good and only cost me £450 fitted

stu
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