Swedge

iTrader: (1)

So I have a toada1606 half fitted to my car it dosnt control the central locking or have the ultrasonic sensors fitted only the immobilisor is being used

What's the easiest way to fit the central locking part so I can lock an unlock with the fob?

It's a 95 sti import

Swedge

iTrader: (1)

Ok so I've figured I need to fit a solenoid on the drivers door does this need to be a 2 or 5 wire

piehole1983

iTrader: (7)

2 wire! I fitted the same to my car as well but I has to use 2 relays and a bit of wiring to make it work. I'll try to find the web page that I used for guidance and pop a link up.

piehole1983

iTrader: (7)

Found it! You need to use the actuator/reverse polarity diagram with the 2 relays involved. Very simple to make up and install. I installed the relays behind the covers below the steering wheel and ran 2 wires out to a new solenoid/actuator in the drivers door.

http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#4w

piehole1983

iTrader: (7)

Oh and the Ai606 is full of features. I have mine opening my boot, putting windows up, folding mirrors as well as all the normal stuff. I'm wanting to wire mine to bring headlights on when I unlock too. That's a job for the summer though!

Eddieice

How easy was it for opening the boot and opening and closing the windows?

piehole1983

iTrader: (7)

To be honest the windows were fairly hard to do. You need an add on relay unit to do it plus wire it to the existing window circuits. I'm pretty good with this type of thing and it took me a couple of hours. Basically the toad has a few auxiliary signal outputs that either go to ground or else go live with 12v when triggered.

For the windows I had to take a permanent 12v supply in to the door (fused) and also take the signal wire from the toad in to the door too. I then mounted the relay module inside the door and connected to the 4 window switches inside the door card. All wires were soldered and insulated with heat shrink tube. You also need an earth for the module. You could earth it to the door but I opted for bringing a new wire from the main body to the module instead. More work but more reliable. There's about 10/11 connections to be made.

For the boot I had to install a 2 wire actuator (the same as the one for the door locking) inside the boot lid. It fits in nicely and connects to the existing pulling mechanism easily. The hardest part was running a permanent live (fused), an earth and the signal wire from the toad to the boot. Having said that, it was fairly easy overall. I had to use a relay to switch the actuator as I didn't want the toad switching the actuator directly. I mounted the relay under the rear shelf and fed the wires from it up through the conduit that contains the wires for the third brake light.