tonyswrx

Hi All

I've managed to pick up a set of Bugeye STi HID Headlamps for a bargain price!!

I've got a MY01 WRX and want to know if anyones fitted these before to a WRX. There are some differences in the wiring I can see but does anyone have any advice on fitting?? With a few wiring changes can it be done?? If I cant I'm sure I can sell them on for at least what I paid

Its not something I would do myself as I'm no electrician !!

Cheers

sunyue

I have done on my car, it is very hard, you should carful first thing is because H4 light include low beam and hight beam, when you want check high beam you must
fit another light, becasue subaru cannot use with only one light, and if you want know
more you can tell me. How much you got a HID, I sell it 250 with fiting(6000k one),hehe.My brother factory made it.

sti8sam1

Hi there , If you can't fit them send me a price, I want some

tonyswrx

No worries m8, I've got to do a bit of investigating as to whether they'll fit in the nxt week or so.

For information though, both lamps are in great condition, no scratches or anything, they come complete with all bulbs including the HID bulbs which I'm told are £96 each !!!! All wiring is complete as well.

Not sure how much I'd ask for them, Subaru quote £160+vat each for STi lights but not sure if this is with the bulbs or not, I suspect not !!

Apple

You mean like these?



Mechanically, fitting is relatively easy as they dop in exactly where the original bugeyes fit although they are a bit deeper so not as much room behind.

Mine didn't have the original HIDs in so I fitted Autolamps kit and it's great but I've a misting problem with my n/side lamp so the "sharp" light cutoff pattern is diffused

If you want to forget the leveling then you should only have to bother with working out how to connect from the bugeye headlamp 3-pin plug (switched negatives AFAIR) to wire up the separate dip and main beam. The indicator & sidelight plug is the same AFAIR.

Levelling is a bit of an "opportunity" . You'll need a 6-pin STi levelling switch at nigh on 40 quid from a dealer or look in a scrappers for a newish nissan almera / micra etc and acquire one... (get the male plug part as well and as much free wire as poss from the loom as it makes things easier to solder back in )

There's a few previous posts of mine dealing with the wiring side or look on NASIOC.com as I think there was a circuit diagram which gets you started. I just played around with the connections until the lights moved in the right directions (not a 10 minute job to be in a rush doing )

Unless you've been lucky and got the loom side connections on the back of the lamps, then you'll need to snip the wires from the back of the levelling motor plug (2x3 connections) and put in your own connector etc - I used a 8-way "Deutsch" connector as they are waterproof but others are available.

PS can I be second on the list if you don't get anywhere? pretty please I'd only need a near side lamp but might be persuaded into both for the right price...

Apple

PS the price Subaru quoted would probably be for a UK Sti lamp unit which isn't HID

sti8sam - if you have got an sti8 (UK MY03/4 before the correction police swoop in ) then they won't fit if they are like the ones on my car...

tonyswrx

Hi m8

Cheers for that, very useful !!!

I'm not going to worry about the levelling to start with. The main aim is just to get the wiring for the lamps sorted.

The connector for the indicator and sidelight is the same as my car so hopefully can just plug that straight in.

Its the low beam, high beam that I need to sort out. On yours is there a set of three wires coming from the front of the lamp wrapped in an orange protective tube??? It has a triangular three pin plug at the end. I'm assuming this is the HID lamp connector, is that right??

With the HID's are the transformers built in or are they a separate box located in the car ????

Any help with the wiring would be greatly appreciated, or links to other posts dealing with this subject.

You are added to list of buyers should I decide to sell

Apple

With using Autolamps kit, I didn't use the orange wire - I think it's the connection to the ballast igniter circuit. I have a seperate box outside the lamp which is a combined igniter & ballast.

This is the only piccy I have showing the official wiring layout:



The grey connector fastens onto the car loom and the other end goes into the ballast. The other wire goes from the ballast along the orange sleeved wires to the bulb.

If you have the ballasts then I assume there should be just two wires in the first grey connector (0V and +12V) which trigger the ignitor and light the bulbs etc.

If you haven't got the ballasts then the fun starts - you need to get hold of a D2S HID bulb kit with ballasts and start wiring it in seperately (triggering off your existing low beam connections via a power relay). The bulb bayonet connector would have to be removed under the ribbed cover and a slot made in this cover to take a thick wire from the outside (the Autolamps balast is hard wired to the bulb bayonet so you can't pass it through the inside of the lamp unit.)

One word of warning - don't play with chopping off HID wires from the ballast and rewiring - it's not safe. Although they run at the equivalent of 35W when lit, they "strike up" with something like 23KV - they are effectively like fluorescent tubes in operation...

That should be enough for a start to let you work out what bits you've got or need...

Do you have any piccies of the lamps which might help?

Andy

tonyswrx

Eeeek, this is starting to sound expensive, lol

The pic of the lamps is identical to what I've got here, only I dont have the additional boxes which I guessed I would probably need.

Any idea of prices I'm looking at for the additional parts?? If its a fair bit I may well just sell these and go along the Prodrive light kit, or similar. It will save a lot of hassle in the long run, just wont have the cool lights

Cheers for your help so far !!

Apple

If you have a look at the Autolamps site then it'll give you an idea of prices. For a D2S complete kit I guess it's something like 3/400 quid although if you've got the bulbs already then that might knock off 1/200 quid...

I've got a set of Prodrive lights around here as I took them out to fit the STi HIDs so if you're interested we maybe could work something out...

I've even got a set of Autolamps H7 HID bulbs and ballasts that would fit the Prodrives but you'd need to get a couple of power relays and wire them in which shouldn't be too difficult

Andy

tonyswrx

Hi m8

I think I'm probably going to get rid of these HID's, its going to coast a lot whatever I do, lol. I prefer the look of the Prodrives though!!!

What sort of money you looking for, for the Prodrives. I'd be looking for a couple of hundred for my set up, reckon its over five hundred quids worth new!!

If you're interested maybe best to send me a PM, see if we could work something out.

Apple

tonyswrx - YHPM

Autolamps

Just incase it causes confusion http://www.autolamps-online.com/index.htm no longer sells HID conversion kits due to a request from Philips. Therefore we have created a new site with the same products but its no longer linked from the official Philips site. It can be found at http://www.hid-online.com/hidonline/home.htm This in no way effect any of the product or warranties that the scooby guys have on your products bought previously

Nick

Apple

Thanks for the links Nick Is Philips trying to make it look like they're moving up market / tier 1 status so they aren't officially having anything to do with A/M kits?

The HID units I've just acquired from Tony mentioned in the above posts have the OEM D2S bulbs still in as the lights hardly look used so I'm guessing they're original.

The bulbs are branded Panasonic D2S-35W, E1 04D, DOT, Made in Japan with a batch code 09480891 (the inkjet is a bit dingy to make out). Do you have any other info, e.g. colour temperature for these lights? Are they likely to be much different in layman's terms from "yours"? If I had a problem with one of the Philips units, I suppose I could drop in one of these without damaging the ballasts?

Thanks

Andy

PS pass my regards on to Janet this is my third set of HIDs for STi lights. They are brilliant once you get used to them.

Autolamps

Hi Andy

Firstly Jan say thanks and always pleased to help.

The lamps that you have are made by Matsu****a and branded Panasonic. They are 4200K. As with homologated halogen lamps the D2 OE lamp has to be interchangeable with any other. Therefore the Matsu****a, Philips, Osram and GE along with Hitachi are all interchangeable. The only real differences you will find is life and SDCM or colour shift. As the lamps are used you get a process called burn back which shifts the colour temperature during its life. This for the all the lamps is a simple formula that at x hours life you can tell what the temperature is. The difference however is that the formula is different for each manufacturer. Therefore hypothetically if you had a 1000hour old Philips and similar Osram they would have different colour temperatures. This SDCM is why Philips made the D2S CM or colour match. This is almost 5000K and is designed to match a 1000 hour old lamp should you need to replace one.

The Philips issue is that many companies claim to be selling Philips kits as they use Philips ballast. The reality is that the optics are very poor and cause glare and Philips has nothing to do with them. Because of the world dominance in the discharge market Philips get branded as those 'Blue lamps that dazzle you'. This potentially will have a negative impact on their OE business so they are doing what they can to distance themselves from the aftermarket.

Hope all this help?

Nick

Apple

Thanks for the info, Nick.

From the above it seems that HID lamps go cooler in colour temp. with age so all the people who bought 4100K will end up with 6000K but pro rata I don't think many will have them for 2400 hrs / 10 yrs plus assuming (probably wrongly) that its linear...

At least with the 4200K I've now got, they will do as similar looking spares if needed.

Cheers,
Andy