Making Electrical Connections
#1
What is the preferred way of tapping into the existing wiring? I'm not a fan of Scotchlocks and find the wires very thin compared to what I'm used to on older cars and worry that I might break them altogether when fitting the gauges etc that I have planned. For example, I looked at the wires on the lambda sensor (for fitting an AFR meter) and they are so thin that I don't want to touch them - I've seen thicker thread What do the rest of you do? Cheers.
Raymond.
Raymond.
#2
Scotchloks are ok for a relay main beam trigger when wiring drive lamps but that's about all.
Thin wiring is a problem, if splitting a wire in the way you describe probably a piggyback spade connector is best (they are a double spade - a female spade with a male attached (ooer). The original wire is cut and reconnected with a male spade connector one end to the female piggyback the other end, your feed wire to the AFR meter should have a female spade put on it which then connects to the male connection on the piggyback spade. Make sure the connections are wrapped in insulating tape after.
Thin wiring is a problem, if splitting a wire in the way you describe probably a piggyback spade connector is best (they are a double spade - a female spade with a male attached (ooer). The original wire is cut and reconnected with a male spade connector one end to the female piggyback the other end, your feed wire to the AFR meter should have a female spade put on it which then connects to the male connection on the piggyback spade. Make sure the connections are wrapped in insulating tape after.
#3
Because the Lambda uses such small voltages, you should only use soldered connections.
The standard Subaru wiring loom uses gold connectors on the Lambda to cut signal loss.
The standard Subaru wiring loom uses gold connectors on the Lambda to cut signal loss.
#5
Avoid the use of 'Bodgelocks' anywhere!
They literally are a bodge, either use crimped connectors or solder direct, I usually solder.
Mike.
[This message has been edited by Mike Tuckwood (edited 16 December 2000).]
They literally are a bodge, either use crimped connectors or solder direct, I usually solder.
Mike.
[This message has been edited by Mike Tuckwood (edited 16 December 2000).]
#6
As Mike says ALWAYS SOLDER joints! Heat shrink is a fantastic invention, providing a waterproof and insulated barrier. Don't rely on masking tape as moisture will render it useless in no time, resulting in high reistances and short circuits. A huge 'party pack' of heat shrink is available from screwfix direct for £7.99...
#7
Thanks for the advice, all, and for the link, Moss. You have confirmed my worst fears and I'll have to blow the dust off my soldering iron which is something that I can do a fair bit of damage with on the right (wrong?) day I've never tried one of those instant guns, though, so that's another excuse to spend money - as if I needed another excuse
Raymond.
Raymond.
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#8
Solder is a Godsend. I swear by, and occasionally at, the trigger style solder guns for work in car, as you can get instant heat where you want it. They're more cumbersome than soldering irons, but for joining wires they're much easier. Forget 'em for practically any other solder job.
Scotchloks are the work of Satan. For the sake of stripping a bit of insulation, they're not worth it.
Other worthwhile bits are a very sharp knife to cut insulation, and a shedload of heat shrink as already mentioned.
After seeing this, Mike, you may have to renounce your title of head bodger (private joke involving the mounting of gauges... with gaffer tape )
Scotchloks are the work of Satan. For the sake of stripping a bit of insulation, they're not worth it.
Other worthwhile bits are a very sharp knife to cut insulation, and a shedload of heat shrink as already mentioned.
After seeing this, Mike, you may have to renounce your title of head bodger (private joke involving the mounting of gauges... with gaffer tape )
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