Hella 1000 FF's in a Classic
#1
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Hella 1000 FF's in a Classic
Just installes, and upgraded from RIng lights.
It's an awesome difference.
I bought a driving light and a "pencil beam" driving light....
But they're a bugger to adjust.
I made a bracket myself because they are not available in Europe (except bu Prodrive at the MAX price !!!)
But everytime I want to adjust the lights, the whole kit has to come off before you can acces the adjuster-bolts... (and my nbracket is a perfect copy of the original, :d)
How can I do this easier ?
Creepy
It's an awesome difference.
I bought a driving light and a "pencil beam" driving light....
But they're a bugger to adjust.
I made a bracket myself because they are not available in Europe (except bu Prodrive at the MAX price !!!)
But everytime I want to adjust the lights, the whole kit has to come off before you can acces the adjuster-bolts... (and my nbracket is a perfect copy of the original, :d)
How can I do this easier ?
Creepy
#2
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There's no easy way, I'm afraid. I had 1000FF, the Prodrive version, and eventually sold them on as I just couldn't get round the alignment problem, and I found the single point fixing very prone to vibrate, giving a strobe effect on the road. Heaven knows how it effects bulb life
If you have made a bracket like the Prodrive ones, I suppose you could weld a piece across the top, to which you could then fasten a "stay-bar" like they use on rally cars without pods?
On my rally Escort, years ago, the stay-bars were made from large Jubilee clips, cut opposite the adjuster, and straightened.
One end screws/rivets to the lamp housing, the other to the car/bracket, with the adjuster screw pointing forward, this gives some adjustment, plus keeps everything steady.
Alcazar
If you have made a bracket like the Prodrive ones, I suppose you could weld a piece across the top, to which you could then fasten a "stay-bar" like they use on rally cars without pods?
On my rally Escort, years ago, the stay-bars were made from large Jubilee clips, cut opposite the adjuster, and straightened.
One end screws/rivets to the lamp housing, the other to the car/bracket, with the adjuster screw pointing forward, this gives some adjustment, plus keeps everything steady.
Alcazar
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You can stop the vibrations when you put a piece of foam between the top of the lamp and the bumper.
The adjusting I do like this : I unscrew the lamp-bracket, then tighten the two bolts (on the bracket and on the lamp) just enough so that I can have a "play" with them, I also put double-side tape between those points to make it a litlle stickier.
Put the lamps back on the car (with the adjusting bolts loose enough to play with them)
Wait until dark, find a quiet and very dark road and adjust the lamps...
Then unscrew the bracket again and tighten all the bolts like normal, put the bracket back on and finished !
That's the most easy and fast way to do...
Creepy
The adjusting I do like this : I unscrew the lamp-bracket, then tighten the two bolts (on the bracket and on the lamp) just enough so that I can have a "play" with them, I also put double-side tape between those points to make it a litlle stickier.
Put the lamps back on the car (with the adjusting bolts loose enough to play with them)
Wait until dark, find a quiet and very dark road and adjust the lamps...
Then unscrew the bracket again and tighten all the bolts like normal, put the bracket back on and finished !
That's the most easy and fast way to do...
Creepy
#4
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Alcazar - I bought them off you, if you remember. I fitted them to my car with the little brackets you supplied and they were perfect - no vibration and perectly aimed. Both bulbs went a few weeks ago (for the first time) and now, having replaced the bulbs, they are vibrating like you wouldn't believe and one points straight down, the other up and to the right.
Bugger!!!!
Bugger!!!!
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