Somthing is draining the battery! how can i find out?
#1
Somthing is draining the battery! how can i find out?
Hi all,
I know someone already posted simular thread and i have already read through it but still i can figure out the solution!
Something is draining my brothers import 97 sti.
This has been going on for ages now and this is his 3rd new battery in 1 yr.
Is there some multimeter functions i can use??!!
How do auto eletricians diagnose these things? This was recommended by the AA man! dont really trust them so I need you guys to advise me.
Any help is much appreciated.
Cheers
Mike
I know someone already posted simular thread and i have already read through it but still i can figure out the solution!
Something is draining my brothers import 97 sti.
This has been going on for ages now and this is his 3rd new battery in 1 yr.
- Goes dead in 2 weeks. But if driven everyday is OK.
- All batteries are higher amp than standard.(60-65amp ish!)
- Alternator is fine as its over 14v when running.
- Stereo is disconnected and amp.
- No tracker
- Clifford concept !?!?! thatcham some type.
Is there some multimeter functions i can use??!!
How do auto eletricians diagnose these things? This was recommended by the AA man! dont really trust them so I need you guys to advise me.
Any help is much appreciated.
Cheers
Mike
#2
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From: In the Flatlands of Lincolnshire
A couple of methods can be used. Before starting to diagnose ensure that any codes are avaliable for likes of the stereo, alarm (if required), etc.
If you have a meter that measures current check the maximum that can be measured. If this is not avaliable I would suggest making a link lead with a 5 amp fuse fitted to protect the meter. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and connect the meter, set to measure current ensuring the cables are in the right terminals. Connect one lead from the meter to the negative lead, and the other end to the battery. As you connect the lead to the battery you will get a spark. Check the current drawn on the meter. Now individually remove and replace each fuse, whilst you or a assistant watches the reading on the meter. If you don't have a meter then again individually remove and replace the fuses as you do you should find that you get some arcing as the fuse is replaced. Hopefully this will indicate where the problem is. Any other questions feel free to ask Steve
If you have a meter that measures current check the maximum that can be measured. If this is not avaliable I would suggest making a link lead with a 5 amp fuse fitted to protect the meter. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and connect the meter, set to measure current ensuring the cables are in the right terminals. Connect one lead from the meter to the negative lead, and the other end to the battery. As you connect the lead to the battery you will get a spark. Check the current drawn on the meter. Now individually remove and replace each fuse, whilst you or a assistant watches the reading on the meter. If you don't have a meter then again individually remove and replace the fuses as you do you should find that you get some arcing as the fuse is replaced. Hopefully this will indicate where the problem is. Any other questions feel free to ask Steve
Last edited by 360ste; 26 November 2006 at 04:20 PM.
#3
Originally Posted by 360ste
A couple of methods can be used. Before starting to diagnose ensure that any codes are avaliable for likes of the stereo, alarm (if required), etc.
If you have a meter that measures current check the maximum that can be measured. If this is not avaliable I would suggest making a link lead with a 5 amp fuse fitted to protect the meter. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and connect the meter, set to measure current ensuring the cables are in the right terminals. Connect one lead from the meter to the negative lead, and the other end to the battery. As you connect the lead to the battery you will get a spark. Check the current drawn on the meter. Now individually remove and replace each fuse, whilst you or a assistant watches the reading on the meter. If you don't have a meter then again individually remove and replace the fuses as you do you should find that you get some arcing as the fuse is replaced. Hopefully this will indicate where the problem is. Any other questions feel free to ask Steve
If you have a meter that measures current check the maximum that can be measured. If this is not avaliable I would suggest making a link lead with a 5 amp fuse fitted to protect the meter. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and connect the meter, set to measure current ensuring the cables are in the right terminals. Connect one lead from the meter to the negative lead, and the other end to the battery. As you connect the lead to the battery you will get a spark. Check the current drawn on the meter. Now individually remove and replace each fuse, whilst you or a assistant watches the reading on the meter. If you don't have a meter then again individually remove and replace the fuses as you do you should find that you get some arcing as the fuse is replaced. Hopefully this will indicate where the problem is. Any other questions feel free to ask Steve
BTW, I dont think my meter measures current. I will have to line it with 5 amp fuse to protect it then. What setting should i be clicking onto?
Thanks alot, much appreciated.
regards mike
#5
Have you checked your battery grounds. My brand new REDTOP was going dead for no good reason....found out the ground to the block was not connected and it solved the problem.
#6
Originally Posted by SekretSkwirl02
Have you checked your battery grounds. My brand new REDTOP was going dead for no good reason....found out the ground to the block was not connected and it solved the problem.
Will try out steve's current testing at the week ends and will report back the result! hopefully get it sorted!
#7
Hey there,
I've got the same problem on my Impreza at the moment. I'm gonna give this method a try tomorrow, which setting do i put my multimeter on? Also what voltage should i have across my battery when the car is off and when its idling?
Thanks
Wayne
I've got the same problem on my Impreza at the moment. I'm gonna give this method a try tomorrow, which setting do i put my multimeter on? Also what voltage should i have across my battery when the car is off and when its idling?
Thanks
Wayne
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#8
Originally Posted by WayneG555
Hey there,
I've got the same problem on my Impreza at the moment. I'm gonna give this method a try tomorrow, which setting do i put my multimeter on? Also what voltage should i have across my battery when the car is off and when its idling?
Thanks
Wayne
I've got the same problem on my Impreza at the moment. I'm gonna give this method a try tomorrow, which setting do i put my multimeter on? Also what voltage should i have across my battery when the car is off and when its idling?
Thanks
Wayne
360ste(steve) said in my pm, if ur multimeter has current testing then set to 'A' with a line on top or next to it or dots on my one. If not then line a 5amp fuse to it so it'll protect ur meter. just a thought, ebay sells the ammeter for under 10quid inc post!
Steve, BTW i found an old digital multimeter with current testing 10a!
I will post here soon with the result.
#9
Ok well i gave this method a try! When connecting the multimeter in series you here the central locking and the amps go up to 5.21a then they dropped back to a constant 1.7a. I removed and replaced all the fuses and relays in the fuse box by the battery, the one marked clock-room mad the meter drop to 0! After trying this a few times it stays on 0 now? What the hell is going on?
Thanks
Wayne
Thanks
Wayne
#10
I've tried it today. 1st i tried on my own car(no problem one) reading constant 14mill amp. (to see what is normal current draw)
Then i tried my brothers car. reading 57 milliAmp. So, there is defo a higher draw causing dead battery quickly.
Pulled fuse from the engine bay one at a time. one fuse called (clock.room 15amp) is the one. when pull out it read 11 miliamp.
Ok, so what does this fuse do? does sound like clockset to me?
what do u guys think?
BTW thanks 360ste(steve) for recommeded method.
Then i tried my brothers car. reading 57 milliAmp. So, there is defo a higher draw causing dead battery quickly.
Pulled fuse from the engine bay one at a time. one fuse called (clock.room 15amp) is the one. when pull out it read 11 miliamp.
Ok, so what does this fuse do? does sound like clockset to me?
what do u guys think?
BTW thanks 360ste(steve) for recommeded method.
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