SBKDisco

Hi, has anyone else had this problem or can someone give me an idea of how to fix it.

I have a 52 plate bugeye with the dealer fit twin headlamp conversion. The other day I noticed one of my low beams wasn't working. It was the bulb and I eventually managed to change it, amid much cussing and large loss of skin, which seems to be par for the course.

Since changing the low beam bulb I noticed my high beam no longer works, and because they are separate from each other it's hard to see why they won't work. I can't even be sure that the high beams were working at the time I noticed the blown low beam. The blue dash hi beam warning light comes on, however the high beams don't. The low beams stay illuminated and I think they should go off when the high beam is on, also I find it difficult to believe that both Hi beam bulbs would blow at exactly the same time. I have checked the fuses under the bonnet, the ones inside the car don't appear to have any headlight related fuses so I ruled them out.

Has any one got any ideas, I have checked the connections to the unit I replaced the low beam bulb on Sunday. I also tried to get one of the high beam bulbs out to check if it is blown, but I gave up after 20 mins and haven't had enough time to take the headlights off yet. Obviously I don't want to go to the trouble of extracting the bulb if it isn't neccessary.

I had my previous car a Honda Integra Type-R since Oct 2000 and I only needed to replace one rear light bulb in all that time.

Any suggestions as to what is causing the problem would be much appreciated.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

It's certainly not unknown for both bulbs to go at the same time.

You may have disturbed something when you changed the bulb. Have you looked at the connector that you must have removed to see if there are any bent pins? I'm guessing here, as I have a classic with H4 connectors.

Do you have a circuit tester? I use one that looks like a screwdriver with a point on it, and wire terminating in a crocodile clip on the other end, £2 or so from carshops.

You could use it to see if the connector is live when main beam is selected.
Alternatively, find the main beam relay and check that's working.

Alcazar

Baza1954

Have you tried checking the fuses just a thought

SBKDisco

Cheers for the help. The connectors are okay, the high and low beams have separate bulbs in their own reflector housings. This is why I'm certain I didn't disturb anything when I changed my low beam bulb.

Do the low beam lights go out when you switch to high beam, because mine currently aren't. Low beam is on whichever is selected Hi or Low unless I turn the lights off entirely.

I have checked the fuses that relate to lighting circuits.

It definitely isn't blown bulbs. Ive just had the headlight off and had a bulb out, Ive checked all the wiring and there are no wires or connectors that seems out of place and aren't tight. Is there a relay or something that could have gone.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

You've seen the bulbs light, then? Since the problem? Don't be fooled into thinking that because a halogen bulb LOOKS OK , it IS OK

There's probably a relay. Where, on your car, I'm sorry, I don't know, although you MAY be able to find it by tracing wires from the inner (main beam) lamps back to it.

There MAY even be a fuse on it.

If you find it, it should click whenever mainbeam is selected or turned off.
It will have four terminals, numbered 85, 86, 87 and 30.
85 comes FROM main beam trigger.
86 is to earth.
87 is TO the lights.
30 is FROM battery via fuse.
BOTH main beam lights should have an earth too.

On my classic, the main and dip beams illuminate together, so YES the dips stay on, but again, I can't say definitively that this is so on your car.

Alcazar

SBKDisco

Cheers Alcazar

I havent seen the bulbs light, however they definitely look good. No imperfections or clouding and it's very unlikely that both would blow together.

It's handy to know that the low beams do stay on.

I found the relay, it's attached to the rear of the headlight unit. There is a fused (fuse is okay) lead from the + battery terminal to the relay, which clicks when flasher operated or high beam is selected. Do the clicks mean the relay is working or could it still be faulty? Am I right in thinking that from the relay the next stop is the bulbs and since they dont come on it has to be the relay or the bulbs.

Last thing, do the high beams operate independently of each other or could one affect the other?

Bozlin

i had the same problem with my car mate,
i had to buy a new relay!!

SBKDisco

Cheers, I assumed the relay was the problem, however due to the hassle factor of getting at it I was trying to make sure before replacing it.

If anyone can tell me what an HID kit is I'd really like to know..??

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Phew!

Check bulbs by holding a piece of wire onto the +ve terminal, and to battery +ve, then touch bulb base to battery -ve, BRIEFLY! Keep fingers OFF glass, and do it quick as they get very hot very quick

If relay is clicking it SHOULD be OK. Can you get a circuit tester like the one I mentioned and check that current is present at 87 when it clicks for main beam? Circuit testers are about £2 and worth their weight in gold.

Have you checked that both bulbs have a good earth?

The bulbs ARE independant of each other, ie: wired in parallel, so if one goes the other, if still good, will remain on.

"What's an HID kit?"

Consists of a pair of "bulbs", a pair of ballasts to make the "bulbs" illuminate, assorted wiring and (should have) decent instructions.

Have a look here: Xenon Light Source - Wholesale & Distribution of Quality HID Lights Worlwide

and here: eBay Store

There are others out there, including HIDS4U Ltd, Leeds, UK for all HID and Xenon lighting kits and conversions and

Philips HID,Philips Visionplus,Philips BlueVision,Philips DiamondVision, Philips Power2night and GE HID,GE Megalightplus, GE Euroblue sold by the industry experts

HTH, Alcazar

SBKDisco

Cheers for your help guys. I have fixed the problem, it was made a lot easier due to the help you all provided.

A connection had snapped leaving the spade part in the 4way block that connected to the relay. I simply needed to fit a new spade connector to thewire & insert it into the block. That said, all of the remaining connections are a bit corroded so there is a limited life left on all of them, I will likely replace the lot in the summer when it's not so nippy outside.

Cheers again.