speccboy

Got a 2002 spec c with fault code P1308 OCV solenoid valve signal 2 circuit malfunction (open) its doing my head in anyone got an idea? cheers.

badflash

hi there i got an 02 sti and have been to hell and back with it as a result of p1308..i replaced both ocvs@£45 each and had a continuity check done on the car to search 4a broken wire as per fault code which is an open circuit(broken wire)but to no avail..on some diagnostic machines the faultcode actually was pinpointed to the (LH)side of the engine(battery side)as theres 2 ocvs on the engine..one on either side..my car drives perfect but no matter what i done the engine lite wudnt stay off..i actually disconnected the dashlite(drastic i know)and now i check the car evry week with a handheld obd reader(£60 on ebay-model u581) to see if anymore faultcodes are pending but thankfully ther are no more so far..im happy enough now that that horrid lite isnt annoying my happiness anymore as i was losing heart in the car very fast as a result of p1308..i did see on the north american subaru owners club that there is a software cald "romraider" that enables you to actually erase the faultcode from your ecu and then when its erased...................... it wont bring the lite on as the faultcode isnt in the ecu anymore to read..you can download the software free!!you can googlesearch romraider yourself..im relieved to know i aint the only person whos head has bein fried by a subaru fault code..P1308

hmmyip

Yep I had this on mine bugged me for ages, ok bit involved and I have no pics to help me explain.

My problem turned out to be the connecting blocks for the engine loom, one of the connectors had corroded and almost snapped.

Ok, here goes, if you take the battery out you will see 3 connectors at the top side of the battery at the bottom in between where the battery was and the strut housing. These are on a crap bracket thing and should just pull off. I think from memory there are two large blocks and one small one. Ignore the small one, leaving the 2 big blocks, one is brown the other is black, I cant remember which colour is which, but the near side ocv is wired through the bottom one!

Get to this and pull apart the connecting block, then check all the wires from front to back on the connectors with a multimeter. This is where my problem was and I had to wire up that connection seperately as there was no way of repairing the connector in the block which had snapped but the wire was still near it and made a connection sometimes, held there by the amount of wires there are in the block.

I did trace it all the way back to the ECU when I was originally fault finding and was testing from the ECU, but with hindsight this wasnt necessary because if I had just traced the loom back from the ocv then I would have found the fault earlier.

Word of warning though those connecting blocks DO NOT want to budge from the bracket.

I shall have a look later and if I have time I shall see if I can post up the wire colours and positions in the block and ECU.

Good luck.