When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I previously started a build thread for my car which very quickly turned in to a conversation about petrol. Also I am going to be a dad to twins in June so I don't think the car will see much of a build for a while now, just some modifications. So I thought the members gallery might be a better place for me to stick some photos up as I go.
hi can I ask how did you go about not using the airbag in steering wheel as have thought about changing mine
I used a HKB boss kit (os-238) and it comes with 2 resistors, one that fits the connector from the sti and one for the WRX.
Basics for changing the wheel are disconnect battery and switch hazards on to let any electric discharge.
Undo the 2 Allen bolts on bottom of steering wheel, lift out the centre section which contains the airbag and disconnect the 2 plugs.
loosen the nut in the middle a little and tug steering wheel side to side then top to bottom so it pulls towards you (the nut only being loosened instead of removed stops you from breaking your nose)
Get some tape and use it across the clock wheel thing behind the steering wheel to hold it in place against the steering cowling.
Remove the centre nut completely now and take the steering wheel off.
place your new boss over the clock wheel so the hole on the boss sits on to the bit sticking out of the clock wheel (the tape on this bit holding it in place should make sure your steering wheel is straight when the boss is fitted)
Plug which ever one of the 2 resistors stays in place in to the air bag connector, and plug the wire that comes in the box in to the remaining connector from the clock wheel which is for the horn.
Place the nut you removed earlier in to the middle of the boss and tighten.
The horn connector should be fed in to the middle of the boss to connect to your new horn button, and the cable with the resistor should wrap around the boss, run some black electrical tape around to hold this against the boss.
Push the black sleeve over the boss so it hides all of this and then connect your new horn button and bolt on your new steering wheel.
Reconnect battery and start car to make sure airbag light goes off, and then go have some fun.
It's easier then I made that sound and Makes more sense when you've got everything in front of you and your doing it.
If you need any other help let me know, or if your near Essex I can give you a hand.
Nice looking blobeye, interior looks great, where did you pick up the steering wheel
Thanks mate, it is a 350mm nardi deep corn from tegiwa.
I got the wheel from them ok but after 4 weeks of waiting for the boss to be told it would take another 4 I ended up getting that from driftworks.
I dont think you could go wrong with either a nardi or personal steering wheel, both are quality, but buy genuine and not Ebay fakes.
Defi gauges are in but not pictured in the other interior photos, I also cut up the cup holder to mount the control unit but it needs tidying up a little.
Dunno how you got the yellow tint film to look good on the fogs, I tried 3 times on mine and couldn't get it to look right around the edges, so I painted mine in the end..
Dunno how you got the yellow tint film to look good on the fogs, I tried 3 times on mine and couldn't get it to look right around the edges, so I painted mine in the end..
Looks good so far though.
Great difficulty and a hair dryer.. But mine is still lifting a little I used 2 layers to get the right tone. I probably will spray in the future I just wanted to make sure I like the yellow on the car first.
I must admit, those new wheels make the car a lot better! Coming along nicely, but it's still crying out for a front spiltter lol.
And speaking from knowledge, those seats are quite comfy...
Cheers, I am looking, just want to find something a bit less common. Plus preparing for the twins is expensive, found a nice pair of baby recaros for them though.
My gear box is making some dodgy noises so I have decided to swap to a non dccd 6 speed, all bits coming from Matty at mb developments plus I've orders the group n gear box, dog bone and engine mounts. Will skim flywheel and change clutch at the same time.
And last little update I've just found a cusco front strut brace with master cylinder stopper built in.
What sort of noises? Was you having problem shifting? Subaru trannys make lots of weird and wonderful noises. Doesn't necessarily meen something's wrong. Unless you feel it
What sort of noises? Was you having problem shifting? Subaru trannys make lots of weird and wonderful noises. Doesn't necessarily meen something's wrong. Unless you feel it
1st and reverse very difficult to get in, couple of times during hard driving won't go in to 2nd.
When turning and on throttle I get a clunking grinding sound which is probably front diff. Rather then spend money on stripping and rebuilding it I thought take the opportunity to upgrade. Also when between 2500 and 4000 revs when driving I lose connection between the engine and gearbox, revs climb, boost builds and the car slows down, think this is clutch related? Never encountered a worn out clutch so dont know. When it goes in for change it will be getting a new clutch anyway.
Last edited by LoganS; 19 February 2016 at 11:40 AM.
1st and reverse very difficult to get in, couple of times during hard driving won't go in to 2nd.
When turning and on throttle I get a clunking grinding sound which is probably front diff. Rather then spend money on stripping and rebuilding it I thought take the opportunity to upgrade. Also when between 2500 and 4000 revs when driving I lose connection between the engine and gearbox, revs climb, boost builds and the car slows down, think this is clutch related? Never encountered a worn out clutch so dont know. When it goes in for change it will be getting a new clutch anyway.
Ah I see whats needed for the conversion apart from the gearbox? Do you need sti rear diff and shafts? What about the prop shaft?
At least people cant say just sell it and get a sti on this one as you cant get a red sti
Ah I see whats needed for the conversion apart from the gearbox? Do you need sti rear diff and shafts? What about the prop shaft?
At least people cant say just sell it and get a sti on this one as you cant get a red sti
Yeah, basic conversion is gearbox /selector/craddle/propshaft.
Also getting clutch master cylinder as I think they have a larger capacity, front drive shafts, 6 speed flywheel (which will be getting skimmed) and the arm rest / gear surround and gear gaiter.
You can see I've got group N mounts, and I'll have an exedy clutch going on the same time.
If I ever go big power I can add r180 rear diff and drive shafts to take more power comfortably.
I love my Wrx and that it is red. Mine has ppp so it is underrated. STI might have been the better car to start with but at the time I only had Wrx money, and I could do with improving me on track before I need more power.