alcazar

iTrader: (2)

With these: http://www.plumbtraders.co.uk/produc...9lCtkeIKnw_wcB

What a difference, and the whole job takes less than ten minutes once the water is off.

The toilets now fill almost silently and very quickly, with shutoff being almost instantaneous.....it's flowing, then it's not....no dripping, or fading away of flow.

mamoon2

Yeah, they last about 18 months tho. Been through 3 already.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Really?
Why? Just the washers, or the whole thing?
And those ones in particular? Or just Torbeck valves?

mart360

Put mine in both loft & loo, cant remember when

silence is golden

wrx300scooby

I like the idea of these but just how reliable are they as post above says need replacing after so long?

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Fluidmaster are opella, who own Torbeck. Even the Own brand B&Q (Dial) ones are Made by Opella

I know as I bought almost every filing valve out there to replace a totally silent Torbeck. (Fluidmaster, Opella, Dial, wirquin, jollyfill, Roca to name a few) Fluidmaster was to harsh shutting and thumped on shut off. The old Torbeck was slightly more gradual to avoid this. New Torbeck even though it looks almost identical inside and outside is noisier and shuts off too suddenly so again thumps.

Interestingly I've tried another opella Torbeck and it's slightly better, so they vary in batches. Opella also send a free modified valve widget to those who phone then about the problem, I've fitted the modified part, it helps a little, but still thumps.

The old Torbeck never did this, I think the issue is the bleed orifice size that allows the equilibrium valve to close.

I noted the Fluidmaster has no flow restrictor, so I will try to refit it with a restrictor out of one of the Torbecks, maybe that will soften the shut off to the point it's acceptable.


Oh for a silent ensuite bog again


Ps don't try replacing the flush valve on a Balterley double trap (syphonic) bog- without the correct aspirator, it sound like its flushing but barely any water goes down the pan and the bowl fills to the brim - almost overflowing.

Aspirators don't fit on Fluidmaster type flushers. And you need to modify modern traditional style flushers to fit ( hacksaw and shorten the thread) and shorten the new aspirator to fit. Also "Eco" flush type flusher won't work....half the cistern water is needed just to the siphon working so half flush just doesn't do anything.


You'd think bogs would be simple, they should be, but for me it would have quicker replace whole bloody bog!

dpb

I had to replace my opella CISTERN FLUSHING VALVE - TORBECK VARIFLUSH ( that came as package with cistern) . - no end of problems



Bought fluidmaster pro 550uk - faultless from installation

Dr Hu

Can you replace old fashioned tank side mounted ball valve on my cold water tank in the loft with these? would I need a side entry one?

I have touble with the ball valve type being very noisy when filling the tank, as its above the kids bedrooms, and if you are showering/bathing it runs for flippin ages!

Fitted a new one about a year ago to replace a dripper, and it waay noisier than the one I took out:grrr:

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Yes, you can get side entry ones. http://www.bes.co.uk/products/120.as...Pvzw_wcB#18198

Ali: both my new valves came with flow restrictors. Our supply being BARELY 1 bar, I left them out. It shuts smartly but no thumping.

Graz

I've got a bog plumbing job I've been putting off at home but probably need to tackle. Not the fill valve but a drip from the close coupling between cistern and pan currently being dealt with by a baking tray under it.

Think its probably a two part job as firstly why is water getting past the doughnut washer and secondly why is it leaking all the time not just when flushing. Therefore I suspect the flush valve isn't sealed properly against the cistern and the doughnut isn't sealing properly between the cistern and the pan.

Went to tackle this a few weeks back only to figure out the isolator doesn't completely shut off the supply, still drips a bit. Not wanting to turn off the supply to the house and carry on incase I couldn't get it all back together later and leave the house with no water I gave up. Think I'll get a 1/2" banking plug so that I can completely seal the inlet after removing the cistern and then tackle it with a tube of Fernox leak sealer and a new doughnut. Hopefully that will stop it.

Despite the best planning something always seems to go wrong whenever I do these jobs

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

You can get a new close coupling kit from Wickes. I would suggest replacing any bolts holding it all together with stainless....for a few pence, worth having.

To be absolutely certain it seals, smear some of this: http://www.caravan-components.co.uk/...0ml-Tubearound both sides of the donut before seating. It's waterproof non setting mastic, also very good for Subaru rear lights and spoilers

I did Andy's* toilet some time back, the donut had been badly fitted and was deformed, so we replaced it.

* Chocolate O'Brian.

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

Don't fit the restrictor that Fluidmaster supply with the Pro 45s. Within a year, you'll have to take it out again to stop the squealing as the cistern fills.

I do like the Pro 45s because they've got a brass thread which means you can tighten everything properly. The ordinary grey plastic ones are too easy to crack. I've fitted loads of the Pro 45s, but that restrictor is a disaster. Usually, turning the isolator valve down instead will damp out most 'thumps' on modern float valves.

Quite frankly though, a Dudley Turbo 88 syphon in conjunction with a brass ball valve is still the best system for any lever operated cistern in my book.

Push button cisterns with leaky flush valves are one of the main causes of wasted water in this country.

dpb

Drove me mad listening for that poxy opella torbeck valve leaking

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Strange over the years I've had four fluidmasters both brass and plastic and none had flow restrictors- are they supplying restrictors now? (Torbecks always did). Water pressure is about 4 bar - there's a pressure reg in the garage. I don't want to turn it down as that will reduce the shower performance.

Closing the isolator is a big no no, I hate cavitation noise... I want a quiet filling bog.

I'll sort it - eventually

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

True, the isolators can be noisy. It seems to happen once the screwdriver slot gets to about 45 degrees, but I'm usually lucky and manage to get a fair balance between thump and cavitation.