Brake disc thickness
#1
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Is there any where on the net to find out minimum thicknesses , i know its stamped on the hub of the disc but its too rusty .
They look ok to me , except the edges which look frighteningly corroded - but this isnt the bit that does the work after all
these are pagid rears for a mondeo ( well im assuming theyre oem )
They look ok to me , except the edges which look frighteningly corroded - but this isnt the bit that does the work after all
these are pagid rears for a mondeo ( well im assuming theyre oem )
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Dave
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Cheers for the info ![Thumb](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/thumb.gif)
its diesel mondeo estate 04 , looks like i should get away with it then
- ford wanted to replace them 3 YEARS ago !
So its a walk to the polling station
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its diesel mondeo estate 04 , looks like i should get away with it then
- ford wanted to replace them 3 YEARS ago !
So its a walk to the polling station
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#14
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Have a look around the outer edge for this....
![](http://c4owners.org/images/c4/service/wear.jpg)
When the face of the disc wears to meet the ground out indicator, they need replacing.
If they look badly corroded, then pop the wheel off and grind off the corroded edge. The fronts are easy by just jacking both wheels off the ground and putting it in first, then as the wheels turn use a strong, big screwdriver like a carpenters lathe chisel, finishing it off with a wire brush. As the rears won't turn you'll just have to plod away with the wire brush.
![](http://c4owners.org/images/c4/service/wear.jpg)
When the face of the disc wears to meet the ground out indicator, they need replacing.
If they look badly corroded, then pop the wheel off and grind off the corroded edge. The fronts are easy by just jacking both wheels off the ground and putting it in first, then as the wheels turn use a strong, big screwdriver like a carpenters lathe chisel, finishing it off with a wire brush. As the rears won't turn you'll just have to plod away with the wire brush.
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i think i may do this - they certainly look a right state
But the car went thro MOT no trouble at all -he said should need replacing in another 10 months or so , after condeming them a few months back !
But the car went thro MOT no trouble at all -he said should need replacing in another 10 months or so , after condeming them a few months back !
#16
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For the sake of what 40 quid I wouldnt mess about, get them changed, having seen one shear when my cousins old Vauxhall Magnum wore the fronts thin because he couldnt afford to change them I would just get them changed, funnily enough disks seem cheaper nowadays.
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I must admit, if they're only months away from needing a change and you're contemplating taking the wheel off for a fettle, you may as well pop them off and treat it to new ones for the sake of one more grub screw and the two calliper bolts.
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Tools ![Ponder2](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/ponder2.gif)
Jack, wheelbrace, hex/allen key (calliper bolts) and a large cross-head screwdriver (grub nut). Maybe a hammer to crack it loose if it's corroded itself on a bit. You might need a calliper rewind tool too, often needed for rears.
![Ponder2](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/ponder2.gif)
Jack, wheelbrace, hex/allen key (calliper bolts) and a large cross-head screwdriver (grub nut). Maybe a hammer to crack it loose if it's corroded itself on a bit. You might need a calliper rewind tool too, often needed for rears.
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