Vintage electronic game repair.
17 March 2012, 06:00 PM
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Vintage electronic game repair.
I`ve been doing a lot of throwing away and come across a boxed Grandstand Astro Wars tabletop electronic game, which I had as a kid.
Now it doesn`t work, and a vaguely remember being told it was sent away for repair and it would cost £30 for a "chip", and it wasn`t done as "That was too expensive!!", think a multi adapter was plugged in with the wrong polarity and broke it.
So now I`ve found it, anyone know of somewhere that I can get it repaired??
Pic isn`t mine, but is identical (box is in much better shape tho).
Now it doesn`t work, and a vaguely remember being told it was sent away for repair and it would cost £30 for a "chip", and it wasn`t done as "That was too expensive!!", think a multi adapter was plugged in with the wrong polarity and broke it.
So now I`ve found it, anyone know of somewhere that I can get it repaired??
Pic isn`t mine, but is identical (box is in much better shape tho).
17 March 2012, 06:09 PM
#2
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As a guide to how much you should spend on repair there are a few working ones on ebay
One for £45 buy it now with box and charger
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nk....c0.m270.l1313
One for £45 buy it now with box and charger
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nk....c0.m270.l1313
17 March 2012, 06:40 PM
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As a guide to how much you should spend on repair there are a few working ones on ebay
One for £45 buy it now with box and charger
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nk....c0.m270.l1313
One for £45 buy it now with box and charger
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nk....c0.m270.l1313
I know I`ll never make money on it, but its a bit of my early life, and would mean a lot to get it working. But there is a point when I could just recase a different one lol.
17 March 2012, 06:58 PM
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Open it up and have a look at the PCB, generally when applying wrong polarity to a pcb results in one or more chips / components frying.
Replacements are genarally cheap, that is if you can get the chip itself.
it may be a resistor, which will ,excuse the pun, be as cheap as chips lol
Mart
Replacements are genarally cheap, that is if you can get the chip itself.
it may be a resistor, which will ,excuse the pun, be as cheap as chips lol
Mart
18 March 2012, 02:01 AM
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Open it up and have a look at the PCB, generally when applying wrong polarity to a pcb results in one or more chips / components frying.
Replacements are genarally cheap, that is if you can get the chip itself.
it may be a resistor, which will ,excuse the pun, be as cheap as chips lol
Mart
Replacements are genarally cheap, that is if you can get the chip itself.
it may be a resistor, which will ,excuse the pun, be as cheap as chips lol
Mart
18 March 2012, 02:42 AM
#6
Hmmm, not much to it:
Probably a microcontroller hiding under the LED array, but other than that just resistors, caps and transitors. All of which are replacable as long as the transistors have a model code and not a batch number, and you can still the colour bands on any burnt out resistors (otherwise you have to start guessing component values).
But if the microcontroller is dead, you won't replace it, as its a bespoke part (bet its made by Texas).
Probably a microcontroller hiding under the LED array, but other than that just resistors, caps and transitors. All of which are replacable as long as the transistors have a model code and not a batch number, and you can still the colour bands on any burnt out resistors (otherwise you have to start guessing component values).
But if the microcontroller is dead, you won't replace it, as its a bespoke part (bet its made by Texas).
Last edited by ALi-B; 18 March 2012 at 02:44 AM.
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18 March 2012, 08:49 PM
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Have you tried it recently?
most multi adaptors usually have reverse polarity protection, or the unit may have a fuse built in....
open it up and have a look for obvious signs of damage
Mart
most multi adaptors usually have reverse polarity protection, or the unit may have a fuse built in....
open it up and have a look for obvious signs of damage
Mart
18 March 2012, 09:01 PM
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But I hate doing electronics tbh. Its too fiddly for my sausage fingers.
If someone fancies having a go, just ask lol.
18 March 2012, 09:07 PM
#14
Hmmm, not much to it:
Probably a microcontroller hiding under the LED array, but other than that just resistors, caps and transitors. All of which are replacable as long as the transistors have a model code and not a batch number, and you can still the colour bands on any burnt out resistors (otherwise you have to start guessing component values).
But if the microcontroller is dead, you won't replace it, as its a bespoke part (bet its made by Texas).
Probably a microcontroller hiding under the LED array, but other than that just resistors, caps and transitors. All of which are replacable as long as the transistors have a model code and not a batch number, and you can still the colour bands on any burnt out resistors (otherwise you have to start guessing component values).
But if the microcontroller is dead, you won't replace it, as its a bespoke part (bet its made by Texas).
18 March 2012, 11:47 PM
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Yeah have tried it using batteries, and have opened it up. There is one resistor that has a bit of added solder, and when doing a continuity test it has no through flow. The rest do pass current so perhaps that is the problem.
But I hate doing electronics tbh. Its too fiddly for my sausage fingers.
If someone fancies having a go, just ask lol.
But I hate doing electronics tbh. Its too fiddly for my sausage fingers.
If someone fancies having a go, just ask lol.
got to be a worth a punt
Mart
19 March 2012, 11:20 AM
#16
Bye Bye Rosie Of You Go Brimingham Via Great Western.
Or to a normal person:
Black = 0
Brown = 1
red = 2
Orange = 3
Yellow = 4
Green = 5
Blue = 6
Violet = 7
Grey = 8
White = 9
Gold 5%
Silver 10%
For a 4 band resistor, the first two band colours are the numbers. And the third one is the number of zeros after it. The last band (gold/silver) is the tolerance.
Or to a normal person:
Black = 0
Brown = 1
red = 2
Orange = 3
Yellow = 4
Green = 5
Blue = 6
Violet = 7
Grey = 8
White = 9
Gold 5%
Silver 10%
For a 4 band resistor, the first two band colours are the numbers. And the third one is the number of zeros after it. The last band (gold/silver) is the tolerance.
19 March 2012, 08:10 PM
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So9 looks like a diode, try appplying your continuity tester accross both directions..
If its working ok, voltage should only flow in one direction.
The other the +6v may be a dry joint, try reflowing the solder.
Also clean the on off pads, with some Iso prop, it could be somethhing as simple as crud on contacts.
Unless you whacked in uber hight voltages or amps, i cant see +6v with incorrect polarity would fritz things
It may be a chip has died of natural causes so to speak. unless you can find a replacement there, then it may be game over...
Look at all solder joints, its surprising how many can benefit from a reflow
Mart
If its working ok, voltage should only flow in one direction.
The other the +6v may be a dry joint, try reflowing the solder.
Also clean the on off pads, with some Iso prop, it could be somethhing as simple as crud on contacts.
Unless you whacked in uber hight voltages or amps, i cant see +6v with incorrect polarity would fritz things
It may be a chip has died of natural causes so to speak. unless you can find a replacement there, then it may be game over...
Look at all solder joints, its surprising how many can benefit from a reflow
Mart
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