New tyres on a fwd car, which first?
#3
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front i would say, where all the power comes from so i would get some good ones.
check out camskill for some tyres, just need to find a garage to fit them then.
check out camskill for some tyres, just need to find a garage to fit them then.
#6
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You should put the best tyres on the driving wheels.
In your case on the front, your tyres have three main jobs to do, braking, steering and traction, you need the best treads for those functions.
If you encounter understeer in general use, then you are driving too fast for the conditions.
In your case on the front, your tyres have three main jobs to do, braking, steering and traction, you need the best treads for those functions.
If you encounter understeer in general use, then you are driving too fast for the conditions.
Last edited by Oldun; 14 February 2013 at 12:17 PM.
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You should put the best tyres on the driving wheels.
In your case on the front, your tyres have three main jobs to do, braking, steering and traction, you need the best treads for those functions.
If you encounter understeer in general use, then you are driving too fast for the conditions.
In your case on the front, your tyres have three main jobs to do, braking, steering and traction, you need the best treads for those functions.
If you encounter understeer in general use, then you are driving too fast for the conditions.
Originally Posted by Micheilin - the people that actually make tyres
Rear Tyres
FOR COMPLETE CONTROL, FIT YOUR NEW TYRES TO THE REAR AXLE
Rear wheels are not connected to your steering wheel, which makes it extremely difficult to judge their grip while driving. We recommend that new tyres or the least worn tyres are fitted to the rear wheels to ensure:
Better control in emergency braking or tight corners when the roads are slippery.
Less risk of losing control of your vehicle, especially on wet surfaces
Better road holding, particularly in difficult situations, whether your car is front or rear wheel drive
FOR COMPLETE CONTROL, FIT YOUR NEW TYRES TO THE REAR AXLE
Rear wheels are not connected to your steering wheel, which makes it extremely difficult to judge their grip while driving. We recommend that new tyres or the least worn tyres are fitted to the rear wheels to ensure:
Better control in emergency braking or tight corners when the roads are slippery.
Less risk of losing control of your vehicle, especially on wet surfaces
Better road holding, particularly in difficult situations, whether your car is front or rear wheel drive
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#12
Put the new tyres on the back.
The older ones on the front.
Remember that the new tyres on the back will take 200-300 miles of dry weather driving to remove the release agent etc.
The only exception to this, IMHO, is if the rears are almost new - i.e 6mm or more. Then I would be comfortable putting the new on the front.
I have seen many a FWD car crash in wet conditions on the track with almost brand new tyres on the front and just legal on the rear. Tends to be in the afternoons on track days, they wear out their fronts so swap them round in the pits at lunch - wet track - first flying lap and the back end goes.
Druids and Island at Oulton is a regular!!!
The older ones on the front.
Remember that the new tyres on the back will take 200-300 miles of dry weather driving to remove the release agent etc.
The only exception to this, IMHO, is if the rears are almost new - i.e 6mm or more. Then I would be comfortable putting the new on the front.
I have seen many a FWD car crash in wet conditions on the track with almost brand new tyres on the front and just legal on the rear. Tends to be in the afternoons on track days, they wear out their fronts so swap them round in the pits at lunch - wet track - first flying lap and the back end goes.
Druids and Island at Oulton is a regular!!!
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You should put the best tyres on the driving wheels.
In your case on the front, your tyres have three main jobs to do, braking, steering and traction, you need the best treads for those functions.
If you encounter understeer in general use, then you are driving too fast for the conditions.
In your case on the front, your tyres have three main jobs to do, braking, steering and traction, you need the best treads for those functions.
If you encounter understeer in general use, then you are driving too fast for the conditions.
#16
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As stated, put your new tyres on the back, the best two of your other four on the front.
Anyone with a serious involvement in motorsport will tell you this, as will any tyre fitter worth their salt.
Anyone with a serious involvement in motorsport will tell you this, as will any tyre fitter worth their salt.
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Can anyone explain how having the new tyres on the rear can help with braking?
Seems very odd as the front brakes do 90% of the braking. Surely they have a much higher chance of locking up if the tyres are duff?
New tyres on the front would solve this?
Seems very odd as the front brakes do 90% of the braking. Surely they have a much higher chance of locking up if the tyres are duff?
New tyres on the front would solve this?
#18
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The reason you put the new ones on the back is because a new tyre grips (a lot) better than an old one. This isn't just about tread depths, as tyres age, they naturally harden and become less grippy. And in terms of car control, it's always better to have more grip at the back than the front.
Tyre companies, and also race teams, test these sort of things exhaustively, they don't just say it because they can
Last edited by CrisPDuk; 14 February 2013 at 01:41 PM.
#19
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As stated already.
Regardless of driven wheels...it is advised that the best tyres ALWAYS go on the back axle...F1 has posted the science bit
Not sure on the choice of Firestone, but likely to be better than some teflon coated chin-chongs.
FWIW Conti sport contact 3 is my favourite tyre for money vs grip compromise, followed by Michelin Primacy and Pilot sport 3.
Regardless of driven wheels...it is advised that the best tyres ALWAYS go on the back axle...F1 has posted the science bit
Not sure on the choice of Firestone, but likely to be better than some teflon coated chin-chongs.
FWIW Conti sport contact 3 is my favourite tyre for money vs grip compromise, followed by Michelin Primacy and Pilot sport 3.
Last edited by ALi-B; 14 February 2013 at 01:47 PM.
#20
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New tyres on the front would indeed improve hard braking, in a straight line on a dry road, but in the real world,, the likelyhood is that the weight transfer will cause the older tyres on the rear to lose grip and lock up, not unlike pulling on the handbrake
#22
As for lift-off oversteer; this is a diesel (astra from memory?). I hardly think OP is going to be going daft pushing it about. Besides, if it's anything like the Leon it has a raft of electronics that sort sh*t out anyway. I deliberately provoked the crap out of mines in the wet last night to see how well these systems worked and was very surprised by how effective they are even when I was as good as trying to crash.
#24
Also, lol at the comparison between a diesel runaround an motorsport. I missed the part where OP said he was going to be pushing his car to its limits.
As for garages/fitters/companies - they always have to assume the worst; dozy bint braking mid-bend in the wet, etc. If OP has any semblance of driver skill there is no need to worry about the rear tires unless they are <4mm.
As for garages/fitters/companies - they always have to assume the worst; dozy bint braking mid-bend in the wet, etc. If OP has any semblance of driver skill there is no need to worry about the rear tires unless they are <4mm.
#26
What we all need to remember here is that this car will be driven by my wife, in high heels.
She wouldn't know oversteer from an overgrown steer, and has already put one car upside down in a field due to lift off oversteer, I think, on a flooded road, uphill with water flowing down. Luckily, she walked away from it.....
She wouldn't know oversteer from an overgrown steer, and has already put one car upside down in a field due to lift off oversteer, I think, on a flooded road, uphill with water flowing down. Luckily, she walked away from it.....
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Also, lol at the comparison between a diesel runaround an motorsport. I missed the part where OP said he was going to be pushing his car to its limits.
As for garages/fitters/companies - they always have to assume the worst; dozy bint braking mid-bend in the wet, etc. If OP has any semblance of driver skill there is no need to worry about the rear tires unless they are <4mm.
As for garages/fitters/companies - they always have to assume the worst; dozy bint braking mid-bend in the wet, etc. If OP has any semblance of driver skill there is no need to worry about the rear tires unless they are <4mm.
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The problem I have with what Michelin say is that they are concentrating on laterial grip.
Has any considered braking? I would much rather put my good tyres on the front because of this reason. You can have fantastic tyres on the back but that will mean all of **** all if you need to do an emergency stop. Plus most cars have very little braking force on the rear anyway, so very unlikely that the rear will step out, especially on a front wheel drive car.
I see the logic behind what Michelin say, but I don't agree with it.
Has any considered braking? I would much rather put my good tyres on the front because of this reason. You can have fantastic tyres on the back but that will mean all of **** all if you need to do an emergency stop. Plus most cars have very little braking force on the rear anyway, so very unlikely that the rear will step out, especially on a front wheel drive car.
I see the logic behind what Michelin say, but I don't agree with it.