Central heating & hot water
#1
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Central heating & hot water
Ok, I'm hoping someone can shed some light on this.
The central heating in my house has been off for some time with the weather, and I have a power shower, so no need to heat the water either.
So the other day, I decided on a soak in the bath, put the hot water on, and lo and behold, all the upstairs radiators came on full blast! It was like a furnace!
Any ideas before I ring a central heating engineer? (Need a plumber anyway as one of the downstairs radiators leaks when it's on)
Better still, any central heating engineers on here in the east mids want to come take a look? Lol
The central heating in my house has been off for some time with the weather, and I have a power shower, so no need to heat the water either.
So the other day, I decided on a soak in the bath, put the hot water on, and lo and behold, all the upstairs radiators came on full blast! It was like a furnace!
Any ideas before I ring a central heating engineer? (Need a plumber anyway as one of the downstairs radiators leaks when it's on)
Better still, any central heating engineers on here in the east mids want to come take a look? Lol
#2
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My ch used to come on with only the hot water selected on the control panel. A motorised valve was faulty. More than likely something similar has happened to you, the valve has stopped in an open position or something.
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I own at least half a dozen! Lol
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Neither do I google your symptoms. I have a British Gas service contract and they fixed it. I told them what I thought it was after googling, they confirmed and changed the part, all is fine now
#6
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I do have a plumber who's good, it's just getting hold of him! Lol
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#8
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I can strip and rebuild a car, computer, or electronics, but heating? Nope, not a clue. Lol
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Same set up as me. I'm crap with cars though but run multi million pound machinery at work
#10
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Lol. Well I work in IT (server side) for an engineering firm, and have rebuilt cars and engines for years. I can take off/replace a radiator ok, and drain and bleed a system, and i'm happy doing "cold" plumbing but when it comes to the gas/boiler/pump side of things, it's a big no for me! Lol.
#14
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Just above the immersion (that's right isn't it?) is an open water tank, and another covered one in the loft.
There's three pipes from the boiler, a heating "isolator" and the last unmarked switch is apparently the immersion switch.
There's three pipes from the boiler, a heating "isolator" and the last unmarked switch is apparently the immersion switch.
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You have a 3 way valve,turn on heating and water seperately and note wether the marker on the valve moves to the selected points,it has 3 positions,hot water,heating and both.
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As above, your motorised valve has seized. It happens a lot.
You might be able to take the motor off and free up the valve itself by turning it with pliers. Once it's unstuck it might be perfectly OK again, provided the motor hasn't burned out.
You might be able to take the motor off and free up the valve itself by turning it with pliers. Once it's unstuck it might be perfectly OK again, provided the motor hasn't burned out.
#17
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It's also got a black switch on the side too...
So if it stays in the middle that's both, water is one side and heating t'other...
If it doesn't move, it's a new part job, or a gentle tap yeah?
Thanks for this BTW!!
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That's the "white box" on the pipe yeah? The one with the black switch in the middle?
It's also got a black switch on the side too...
So if it stays in the middle that's both, water is one side and heating t'other...
If it doesn't move, it's a new part job, or a gentle tap yeah?
Thanks for this BTW!!
It's also got a black switch on the side too...
So if it stays in the middle that's both, water is one side and heating t'other...
If it doesn't move, it's a new part job, or a gentle tap yeah?
Thanks for this BTW!!
Last edited by Busterbulldog; 07 August 2013 at 10:27 PM.
#20
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Assuming this actuator is at fault, How difficult are these to change? (On a Haynes Spanner scale) lol.
Is it a DIY job? Empty the system, change the part, refill with inhibitor and bleed?
Or should I just call an engineer? If so, how much are we talking?
Ta!!
Is it a DIY job? Empty the system, change the part, refill with inhibitor and bleed?
Or should I just call an engineer? If so, how much are we talking?
Ta!!
#21
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Yes the other black slider is a manual opener..if the valve doesnt move when heat is called for try releasing it with the manual opener....its odd if you havent used the heating for a while that its stuck in mid position,it defaults to hot water,inside theres a motor called a synchron...its an easy diy mend,but do the tests 1st.
#22
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Radiators are definitely staying cool.
I'm happy with that!
Next job is to freeze the pipes before a valve on a radiator, and replace the leaky valve!
Not looking forward to that as I've just laid a new carpet in that room! Pfft.
I'll check on the actuator again tomorrow and see if its still playing ball!
Thanks for the help folks, much appreciated!
I'm happy with that!
Next job is to freeze the pipes before a valve on a radiator, and replace the leaky valve!
Not looking forward to that as I've just laid a new carpet in that room! Pfft.
I'll check on the actuator again tomorrow and see if its still playing ball!
Thanks for the help folks, much appreciated!
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Radiators are definitely staying cool.
I'm happy with that!
Next job is to freeze the pipes before a valve on a radiator, and replace the leaky valve!
Not looking forward to that as I've just laid a new carpet in that room! Pfft.
I'll check on the actuator again tomorrow and see if its still playing ball!
Thanks for the help folks, much appreciated!
I'm happy with that!
Next job is to freeze the pipes before a valve on a radiator, and replace the leaky valve!
Not looking forward to that as I've just laid a new carpet in that room! Pfft.
I'll check on the actuator again tomorrow and see if its still playing ball!
Thanks for the help folks, much appreciated!
#25
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Fernox? Whassat? Lol.
It's leaking from the bottom of the compression joint on the valve I've tightened it to a surreal level, and when the valve is on it still drips, turn it off, and it stops!
Does it on both sides, I put it down to the fact the radiator isn't mounted properly.
It's leaking from the bottom of the compression joint on the valve I've tightened it to a surreal level, and when the valve is on it still drips, turn it off, and it stops!
Does it on both sides, I put it down to the fact the radiator isn't mounted properly.
#27
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It seemed to slow when I tightened the compression joints, the stopped as I turned them off, I just assumed it was the joint... Lol.
See, better eyes see more clearly!
I'd take you for a pint if you were close! Maybe you should send me your PayPal addy in PM pal, I'll send you a tenner to buy you some beer for your help!! Lol
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Sound like you're sorted anyway. I wouldn't recommend pipe freezing for the DIY plumber, it only gives you a limited amount of time to sort what ever needs sorting. Far easier to just drain the system down and then you can take as long as you need, which will inevitably be longer than you think as something won't go to plan